jason len

smoke can out my sub?? why ??
i bought this sub and amp saturday, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEBI%3AIT&rd=1

it was all wired properly and working ok bass etc, was working perfect the day i bought as i had it on for 7 hours,

went to my mates next day switched car stereo on heard the woofer make a strange tinney noise and it went off, i opened up the box the sub was in and smoke came out??

the subs blown? why would this happen? was ok yesterday when i bought it??

anyone have any ideas why it would blow?? what would cause th sub to blow?

im thinking it might be the amp too powerfull owever its only a 350 watt and the sub was suppost to be a SPL-X 500 watt sub ??

i just cant make heads of tails off it?? why it happened? i know i had loads of bass on , however i had it loader the day before and it was ok??

anyone advize and im new to the amp and sub scene as it was my first one.



thanks

Paddy

Hi mate,

Unfortunately the link to the ebay auction wasn;t working so I'll have to try and guess some things...

1st you need to check the RMS value of both the sub and the Amplifier. Thats the real power output not the over inflated peak power that they normally print on the packaging or casing. Its still measure in Watts tho.

You need to make sure that the max output of the amp doesn't exceed the recommended operating output of the sub, this could have made it blow by putting too much power thru the cone and working the magnet too hard.

Most amps have a "gain" control on them, this is basically a power switch, you should always install an amp with this turned right down and gradually increase it until you're happy with the sound.

The other reason the sub could have blown could be that the amp wasn't filtering out all the other levels of sound.

Low frequency bass notes are created by slower, longer movements of the cone.

If the amp was sending higher frequencies to the sub, it's possible that it could make it work overtime and fry it that way....

Its worth checking the operating limits of the amp, most have crossovers or filters built into them to send the right sound to the sub...

It could also be that the wiring of the sub inside whatever enclosure you have shorted out the sub? were the + and - touching? Especially if the sub made a weird sound when you turned it on?

Are you sure it was wired in correctly? Does the permanent live have a suitable fuse AS CLOSE to the car battery as possible? If the permanent live is going through the bulkhead, did you use a rubber grommet or something to make sure its not hitting bare wire?

Where did you take your remote/ignition live from?

Was the amp earthed as close as possible to a suitable point?

However, its most likely that the 7 hours of use just wore the magnet out

jason len

yes the permanent live does have a fuse mate, and was all taped up properly,

well im unsure about the remote/ignition live as the car had a sub in it before i bought it, as the wires where already there,
one thing i did notice through even when the ignition was turned off the amp still stopped on, i did ent think this would hurt anythink just dain the battery a little, but im no expert.

heres the link again mate,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEBI%3AIT&rd=1

just incase the link goes down again is a 10” SPL-X 500 watt sub and 350 watt SLP-X amp.

also i was going to try useing a tannoy saturn s8c speaker with the amp, however im unsure whever to plug it in as this speaker cost me 300 pounds, i use it for my home cinema, and dnt want to connect it if its going to pop, im guessing the amps too powerfull, however as i said im not expert on these things,
the specs are

Recommended amplifier power: 10-120W
Sensitivity: 90dB
Nominal impedance: 8 Ohm
Frequency response: 50 -20.000Hz
Crossover frequency: 1.5Khz

what do u think??

Paddy

Mate, if its live all the time its possible you will fry something else.

Please get the ignition live checked and draw a new feed from the back of the head unit if its not something you're able to do yourself, take it to an i.c.e shop, they'll do it in 3 minutes or whereabouts are you based?

Make sure the fuse on the permanent live is as close to the battery as possible, underneath the bonnet, not in the car

Check both the fuses too, the one on the live and there should be a small blade fuse in the amp?

Don't put that tannoy speaker in until its all fixed

Check the rca leads are working ok and they've not split thru the coating anywhere, or the connectors are fooked, and the same for the speaker cable also, pop the sub out the box and check the soldered connections for the speaker wire