Fuel Pump Re-Wiring
30-11-2005, 10:37 AM
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Fuel Pump Re-Wiring
I'm going to re-wire my fuel pump on the cossie.
My plan is to fit a new relay (probably to the inertia switch bracket), and use the exisiting feed to switch this relay. Then run a fused live direct from the battery to feed the pump via the new relay. I'll also replace the pump earth.
I'm fine with the wiring, but does anyone have any idea where to get the connectors for the pump? I've looked on VWP etc but can't see them. From memory, they're like bullets but the insulation has two tabs that lock into a groove on the pump connections.
Cheers!!
Neil.
My plan is to fit a new relay (probably to the inertia switch bracket), and use the exisiting feed to switch this relay. Then run a fused live direct from the battery to feed the pump via the new relay. I'll also replace the pump earth.
I'm fine with the wiring, but does anyone have any idea where to get the connectors for the pump? I've looked on VWP etc but can't see them. From memory, they're like bullets but the insulation has two tabs that lock into a groove on the pump connections.
Cheers!!
Neil.
30-11-2005, 10:42 AM
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IIRC they are an AMP connector. I may be wrong though.
Chances are you will be looking for them for ages. It would probably be easier to fit an 044 pump which are eyelets, not push on shite.
Chances are you will be looking for them for ages. It would probably be easier to fit an 044 pump which are eyelets, not push on shite.
30-11-2005, 10:50 AM
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Easier, but not cheaper 
I might just use bullets and heat-shrink over them until I source the proper connectors
Is AMP the name of the connector, or the manufacturer?
Cheers Daz!
Neil.
I might just use bullets and heat-shrink over them until I source the proper connectors
Is AMP the name of the connector, or the manufacturer?
Cheers Daz!
Neil.
30-11-2005, 11:11 AM
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yes part of tyco, whom i have an account with
but wouldnt be able to buy singular plugs sorry
small plugs have MOQ's
you have have to try and use them or find an alternative
but wouldnt be able to buy singular plugs sorry
small plugs have MOQ's
you have have to try and use them or find an alternative
06-12-2005, 05:47 PM
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OK, been out and looked at it tonight...
I will be taking the new live from the battery down the passenger side of the car, thru the boot and taping it in with the OE wiring as it comes along the rear panel. I'll then replicate the original routing of the wire under the car - that way the spare wheel can't rub on the new wiring etc.
What have people done to replace the earth connection? I'm thinking of using the strengthening rib inside the boot at the rear of the rear wheel well - is this OK?
Cheers!
Neil.
I will be taking the new live from the battery down the passenger side of the car, thru the boot and taping it in with the OE wiring as it comes along the rear panel. I'll then replicate the original routing of the wire under the car - that way the spare wheel can't rub on the new wiring etc.
What have people done to replace the earth connection? I'm thinking of using the strengthening rib inside the boot at the rear of the rear wheel well - is this OK?
Cheers!
Neil.
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06-12-2005, 05:56 PM
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aye aye neil 
make sure you chop out the original connector thats for sure, mine was proper manky...
my earth runs to the boot catch mounting panel i think (dingo's work)
make sure you chop out the original connector thats for sure, mine was proper manky...
my earth runs to the boot catch mounting panel i think (dingo's work)
06-12-2005, 07:12 PM
#10
Neil,
In teh boot, at teh rear panel, is a connector that takes the live and earth to teh pump, chop the wiring for the pump around 6" from here, retaining the last run to teh pump itself. For such a short run, teh original is fine and you dont have connector hastles or teh fire hazzard that comes from getting that end wrong.. lol.
Obviously, if you still dont get the required voltage at full boost then the original wire is crap and degraded, but IME that is RARE.
In teh boot, at teh rear panel, is a connector that takes the live and earth to teh pump, chop the wiring for the pump around 6" from here, retaining the last run to teh pump itself. For such a short run, teh original is fine and you dont have connector hastles or teh fire hazzard that comes from getting that end wrong.. lol.
Obviously, if you still dont get the required voltage at full boost then the original wire is crap and degraded, but IME that is RARE.
06-12-2005, 07:20 PM
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Stu,
Am I following you here?
Would your method not bypass the inertia switch?
Neil.
edit - I also would have expected the wiring underneath the car to be in the worst condition?
Am I following you here?
Would your method not bypass the inertia switch?
Neil.
edit - I also would have expected the wiring underneath the car to be in the worst condition?
06-12-2005, 07:32 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Neil S
Stu,
Am I following you here?
Would your method not bypass the inertia switch?
Neil.
edit - I also would have expected the wiring underneath the car to be in the worst condition?
Am I following you here?
Would your method not bypass the inertia switch?
Neil.
edit - I also would have expected the wiring underneath the car to be in the worst condition?
06-12-2005, 07:57 PM
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I don't like the sound of the switch getting knocked by something whilst in the boot.
What I'm thinking is a G.B.F.O fused permanent live from the battery to the spare wheel well, where a second relay will be located. The original fuel pump feed will provide the coil current for this relay. A new earth will run from the pump back to somewhere undecided. This skins the following cats:
1) I still have the inertia switch
2) All of the wiring to and from the pump is brand new
I'm not being an awkward bastard, honest!
The wiring inside the car looks fine, but that underneath feels a tad brittle.
I'll be honest and say that I haven't actually GOT a known problem at the pump, I just want to ensure that the wiring will supply enough current to the pump so that it can cope with my soon-to-be incresead boost and fuel pressure on boost
Neil.
PS: Cheers for the input BTW - it's good to hear advice supported by real-life experience
What I'm thinking is a G.B.F.O fused permanent live from the battery to the spare wheel well, where a second relay will be located. The original fuel pump feed will provide the coil current for this relay. A new earth will run from the pump back to somewhere undecided. This skins the following cats:
1) I still have the inertia switch
2) All of the wiring to and from the pump is brand new
I'm not being an awkward bastard, honest!
The wiring inside the car looks fine, but that underneath feels a tad brittle.
I'll be honest and say that I haven't actually GOT a known problem at the pump, I just want to ensure that the wiring will supply enough current to the pump so that it can cope with my soon-to-be incresead boost and fuel pressure on boost
Neil.
PS: Cheers for the input BTW - it's good to hear advice supported by real-life experience
06-12-2005, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Neil S
soon-to-be incresead boost and fuel pressure on boost
as for the rest........... blah blah blah ring dingstan
09-12-2005, 09:24 PM
#19
Inertia switch will cost a little mate.
If you try it IT might be ok but all the switch's i have tested it drops .5 volts.
Which could melt your engine.
Tought call.
Being smacked up the as or blowing the lump down to lack of fuel....
If you try it IT might be ok but all the switch's i have tested it drops .5 volts.
Which could melt your engine.
Tought call.
Being smacked up the as or blowing the lump down to lack of fuel....
20-12-2005, 08:22 PM
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OK, I've finished it now I lose 0.1V between the battery and pump 
I've done pretty much as I described above, here's a couple fo pics
Fuseholder:
New Relay:
New Earth:
I ended up just buying new flying leads from ford for the fuel pump connections, and have run the underside wires in the corrougated sleeving for a bit more security.
Pretty happy with it TBH
Neil.
I lose 0.1V between the battery and pump I've done pretty much as I described above, here's a couple fo pics
Fuseholder:
New Relay:
New Earth:
I ended up just buying new flying leads from ford for the fuel pump connections, and have run the underside wires in the corrougated sleeving for a bit more security.
Pretty happy with it TBH
Neil.
22-12-2005, 05:53 PM
#24
Originally Posted by kjc300
Neil,
What size wire did you use and fuse ratings?? Where is the best place to get the wire/connectors/fuse holders from please mate??
What size wire did you use and fuse ratings?? Where is the best place to get the wire/connectors/fuse holders from please mate??
Wire & fuse holders ect www.maplin.co.uk
22-12-2005, 06:30 PM
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PON Cheers dude!
I got the fuseholders and relay from Vehicle Wiring Products.
The sleeving, wire and ring connectors came from a local vehicle electrical place. I think its 30 Amp wire, but I cant quite remember
The pump connectors and flying leads came from fod - FINIS is 6129669.
You should be able to get all you need from pretty much any auto electrics place
Neil.
Cheers dude! I got the fuseholders and relay from Vehicle Wiring Products.
The sleeving, wire and ring connectors came from a local vehicle electrical place. I think its 30 Amp wire, but I cant quite remember
The pump connectors and flying leads came from fod - FINIS is 6129669.
You should be able to get all you need from pretty much any auto electrics place
Neil.
21-04-2006, 10:18 AM
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Ok been looking through various websites.. What sort of relay do i need to buy and what size wiring to re-wire from the new relay to the fuel pump?
Think someone could make a killing here if they started selling this in kit form..
Think someone could make a killing here if they started selling this in kit form..
21-04-2006, 11:45 AM
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Rich, I think they cost me about Ł6.50.
Waaay OTT, and not the best way of doing it at all, but you try getting the proper AMP connectors without buying 1000 off!!
Neil.
Waaay OTT, and not the best way of doing it at all, but you try getting the proper AMP connectors without buying 1000 off!!
Neil.
21-04-2006, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Neil S
Rich, I think they cost me about Ł6.50.
Waaay OTT, and not the best way of doing it at all, but you try getting the proper AMP connectors without buying 1000 off!!
Neil.
Waaay OTT, and not the best way of doing it at all, but you try getting the proper AMP connectors without buying 1000 off!!
Neil.
well that's ok to get job done anyway.. so just to clarify - that gets you a length of cable with the pump connections then?
21-04-2006, 12:05 PM
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Correct
About 6" of wire, the connector itself and the latching shroud that goes over the connector.
I can't remember if you get a pair of them in the bag - I think they were singular, but really don't recall for sure
Neil.
About 6" of wire, the connector itself and the latching shroud that goes over the connector.
I can't remember if you get a pair of them in the bag - I think they were singular, but really don't recall for sure
Neil.
21-04-2006, 12:17 PM
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As Stu said, measure the intertia switch to make shure its ok. Mine was full of rust due to water leaking into the boot through the bumper vents. Sometimes the switch was fine and sometimes it gave infinite resistance making the car stop.
Smashed mine open, removed rust and glued it back together and its been working fine ever since.
Smashed mine open, removed rust and glued it back together and its been working fine ever since.
02-05-2006, 08:18 PM
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Forgot to say - I had my alternator rebuilt a couple of months back. The guy fitted a higher voltage regulator to it.
Just started the car for the first time since getting it done, and I've got 14.5V at the ECU on idle now!!
Out of interest, what voltage would be considered too high?
Neil.
Just started the car for the first time since getting it done, and I've got 14.5V at the ECU on idle now!!
Out of interest, what voltage would be considered too high?
Neil.
02-05-2006, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Neil S
Forgot to say - I had my alternator rebuilt a couple of months back. The guy fitted a higher voltage regulator to it.
Just started the car for the first time since getting it done, and I've got 14.5V at the ECU on idle now!!
Out of interest, what voltage would be considered too high?
Neil.
Just started the car for the first time since getting it done, and I've got 14.5V at the ECU on idle now!!
Out of interest, what voltage would be considered too high?
Neil.
just kidding dont have a clue 
02-05-2006, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Neil S
Forgot to say - I had my alternator rebuilt a couple of months back. The guy fitted a higher voltage regulator to it.
Just started the car for the first time since getting it done, and I've got 14.5V at the ECU on idle now!!
Out of interest, what voltage would be considered too high?
Neil.
Just started the car for the first time since getting it done, and I've got 14.5V at the ECU on idle now!!
Out of interest, what voltage would be considered too high?
Neil.
too high must be when it gets so high its detrimental to the ecu, what this is ive not a clue lol
mine runs (drives - pootling along) at 14.2v according to the secs monitor
down to 13.6 with lights and all other stuff on, and i mean "all on" as in enough to make the fuse links burn out
this is a new 90amp esc cos alt (std regulator), 2 extra earth straps, new engine loom