3dr antiroll bar
18-01-2017, 06:12 PM
#1
3dr antiroll bar
I had to take the 17 inch wheels off my 3dr as they keep catching the front bumper as they're sat too far forward. I believe the car has had a sapphire anti roll bar fitted so wondered if the standard 3dr roll bar made the wheels sit further back?
If so, has anyone got one they'd part with?
If so, has anyone got one they'd part with?
18-01-2017, 06:21 PM
#2
Advanced PassionFord User
I had a similar issue years ago on my 3dr and I think I had to change my lower arms as they where saff and not 3dr ones...
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martynhomer01 (18-01-2017)
18-01-2017, 06:36 PM
#7
All 3drs came with the H13 not just the early ones.
As part of the conversion process Tickford swapped out the H13 for the H14 on the RS500s well that was the theory anyway!
My 500 still had its H13 fitted, but given it was the last but one car built and the August 1st deadline for homologation was the next day it seemed to have slipped through the net
I however finished off the work for them.
As part of the conversion process Tickford swapped out the H13 for the H14 on the RS500s well that was the theory anyway!
My 500 still had its H13 fitted, but given it was the last but one car built and the August 1st deadline for homologation was the next day it seemed to have slipped through the net
I however finished off the work for them.
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Mark V8 (18-01-2017)
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18-01-2017, 06:47 PM
#8
All 3drs came with the H13 not just the early ones.
As part of the conversion process Tickford swapped out the H13 for the H14 on the RS500s well that was the theory anyway!
My 500 still had its H13 fitted, but given it was the last but one car built and the August 1st deadline for homologation was the next day it seemed to have slipped through the net I however finished off the work for them.
As part of the conversion process Tickford swapped out the H13 for the H14 on the RS500s well that was the theory anyway!
My 500 still had its H13 fitted, but given it was the last but one car built and the August 1st deadline for homologation was the next day it seemed to have slipped through the net
I however finished off the work for them.
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martynhomer01 (18-01-2017)
18-01-2017, 06:56 PM
#12
Advanced PassionFord User
Is there a difference in the lower Arms as I'm sure I never changed the arb???
18-01-2017, 07:07 PM
#14
Advanced PassionFord User
i must have changed the arb then. Sorry mate not sure where I got that from as I could have sworn I changed the arms lol. How do you tell the difference between a h13 and 14 then? Obviously one is shorter but how would you know unless you had them side by side??
18-01-2017, 08:19 PM
#17
Advanced PassionFord User
That will teach me to look at the pictures properly next time 
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3drRich (18-01-2017)
19-01-2017, 08:51 PM
#23
I stashed that H13 down the side of the garage, and after I moved out my lovely ex wife had the local gypsy clear out all my stuff stored there before I could pick it up, full stainless system also went walkies.
Luckily my garage was fully secured otherwise she would have also no doubt let him have that old Sierra parked inside for Ł100 as well!!!!!
Luckily my garage was fully secured otherwise she would have also no doubt let him have that old Sierra parked inside for Ł100 as well!!!!!
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martynhomer01 (21-01-2017)
21-01-2017, 02:36 PM
#25
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
just machine your H14, I run a h13 on my three door but i fitted double backing plates on the back of TCA bunches to increase the castor as it was very twitchy without.
Tim.
Tim.
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martynhomer01 (23-01-2017)
23-01-2017, 05:34 PM
#27
there are many tales of what fits one sierra not fitting another
i've taken the suspension from one car and it's not fitted another simply because of the tolerances of an 80' ford being in inches rather than microns
the first thing to do is to make sure that it's an actual 2wd bar as the 4wd versions give you different geometry
the granada bars are also a fit but give you different issues again, even though they are supposed to be the same thing
changing the size of the bushes in the body mounts can also give you issues
the simplest method to change the position of the front wheels it to fit compression struts and then have a front mounted arb, will probably work out cheaper than buying a "genuine" rs500 one with the added benifit of being better in the way that matters, handling
if you don't want to do that and want the wheel further back then milling the bar down is another tried and tested way to shift the geometry, but this might lead to different geometry related problems
it could even be the case that the front bushes are poly and don't deform to the extent that the originals do leading to the wheels hitting the bumper
i'll stop there before you start to have too many ideas swirling about in your head
i've taken the suspension from one car and it's not fitted another simply because of the tolerances of an 80' ford being in inches rather than microns
the first thing to do is to make sure that it's an actual 2wd bar as the 4wd versions give you different geometry
the granada bars are also a fit but give you different issues again, even though they are supposed to be the same thing
changing the size of the bushes in the body mounts can also give you issues
the simplest method to change the position of the front wheels it to fit compression struts and then have a front mounted arb, will probably work out cheaper than buying a "genuine" rs500 one with the added benifit of being better in the way that matters, handling
if you don't want to do that and want the wheel further back then milling the bar down is another tried and tested way to shift the geometry, but this might lead to different geometry related problems
it could even be the case that the front bushes are poly and don't deform to the extent that the originals do leading to the wheels hitting the bumper
i'll stop there before you start to have too many ideas swirling about in your head
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JPA (11-08-2018)
25-01-2017, 02:05 PM
#32
The Granada arb is indeed a bit wider than the sierra one because of the longer tcas on the Granada. So it's very difficult to fit as you have to compress it quite far. But handling wise it shouldn't make a difference as the castor angle will still be the same.
22-03-2017, 11:21 AM
#34
Sorry to revive this thread..
What effect would fitting the compleg 2wd saph setup, I.e. hubs, tcas and arb have on a 3dr...
I assume that it will push the wheels further forward?
Atm I have a three door replica still using mk1 parts... I.e hubs, tiny 24mm arb and tcas.. I recently purchased 4 pot calipers and discs and these do not fit the standard hubs. Needs about 5mm taken off the hubs which I think is too risky.
Obviously purchasing 3dr cosworth hubs, arb tcas etc would cost a fortune! Even if you could find such!? That's why I'm thinking about using all saph 2wd items
So back to the original question, has anyone used complete saph Cosworth 2wd setup on a 3dr? And what consequences were there?
What effect would fitting the compleg 2wd saph setup, I.e. hubs, tcas and arb have on a 3dr...
I assume that it will push the wheels further forward?
Atm I have a three door replica still using mk1 parts... I.e hubs, tiny 24mm arb and tcas.. I recently purchased 4 pot calipers and discs and these do not fit the standard hubs. Needs about 5mm taken off the hubs which I think is too risky.
Obviously purchasing 3dr cosworth hubs, arb tcas etc would cost a fortune! Even if you could find such!? That's why I'm thinking about using all saph 2wd items
So back to the original question, has anyone used complete saph Cosworth 2wd setup on a 3dr? And what consequences were there?
02-08-2018, 01:22 PM
#36
i know, old thread but found it looking for ways to increase castor.
to add to the confusion..
i found this in another thread (actually Mark V8's build thread, where there was some discussion about the front ARB) - regarding the modification to a H14 ARB:
"its 5mm you would need to machine back on the ends (not the very ends) of the roll bar to move the cups/washers 5mm back and ultimately the TCA's" (to put castor back to stock/H13 position)
--edited, got confused with h13 and h14 but think it's correct now - H14 can be machined to H13 but not the other way round, right?
to add to the confusion..
i found this in another thread (actually Mark V8's build thread, where there was some discussion about the front ARB) - regarding the modification to a H14 ARB:"its 5mm you would need to machine back on the ends (not the very ends) of the roll bar to move the cups/washers 5mm back and ultimately the TCA's" (to put castor back to stock/H13 position)
--edited, got confused with h13 and h14 but think it's correct now - H14 can be machined to H13 but not the other way round, right?
Last edited by janus; 02-08-2018 at 01:35 PM.
10-05-2019, 12:42 AM
#38
www.rallyanarchy.com
another bump of a ancient thread.
I have 2 here, bought in England as alleged 4x4 bars and they're marked H15.....they're 26mm dia. which is what I was told is what gravel rally guys used on their 4x4s....I also have one which seems same shape marker "24" and its 28mm..
But the Sierra 3 door, Sapphire RWD and Sapphire 4x4 all had 28mm so that doesn't narrow it down...
I'm assembling a whole Cossie 4x4 engine, box, front diff, crossmember, rack TCAs hubs, brakes PS rack and I would like to assemble it with the correct 4x4 anti-roll bar..
Any hints or leads on positively ID the markings?
Last edited by janvanv; 10-05-2019 at 12:44 AM.
10-05-2019, 03:50 PM
#40
www.rallyanarchy.com
Hence looking for something that says " "H15 bar..........V6 4x4" or "24" bar.................Sapphire Cosworth 4x4
I still have to find a 2wd bar for me cause my cars going back to 2wd..