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2.0 black top Zetec turbo oil breathing questions.

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Old 24-07-2016, 09:57 PM
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leedsrhinos126
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Default 2.0 black top Zetec turbo oil breathing questions.

Last week i bought my old car back now running a 2.0 black top zetec turbo. I had a good look over the engine and keep finding problems. First was the turbo is knackered, shaft hits inside of the housing. Next problem is that every oil pipe is leaking in some way and the oil breathing system is not plumbed in right and need help know what goes where if possible.






Any idea why there's no dump valve? Never had one without.

First problem is the turbo oil return union goes into the front of the block rather than the sump. This i believe is fine but the hole in the block was not threaded so the union/pipe was only wrapped in ptfe tape and pushed in the hole Hopefully the pics make sense.













There is an oil catch tank fitted and i'm unsure where one of the pipes goes. One goes the the cam cover breather and the other pipe wasn't connected?

The original zetec breather has been blocked with a core plug. I been reading that a breather has to be drilled in the back of the block but the engine is fitted and been run without it so will damage be caused by not having an additional breather?

And finally there are 2 outlets on the intake manifold with 2 small pipes coming off and going to a t piece into a 1 way valve then through the bulkhead. What are these for? Also the pipes were split on the outlets as the inlet adapter plate bolts foul on the pipes making it impossible to fit the pipes without splitting them. I've tried to show this in the pics.














Sorry if the post makes me seem thick but i'm just unsure as i didn't build the engine so still finding little problems. Apart from the above the engine seems to be built well with a brand new Msport head gasket and other goodies.

Cheers for any input look forward to any suggestions
Old 25-07-2016, 08:47 AM
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XRT_si
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Fuck me, I'd be worried about what other bodges there are if the oil return is like that!

But anyway:

You don't need a dump valve, many prefer not to run with one.

The oil catch tank should be connected to the block as well, but as you have no breather in the block, it's been left out. I've heard of quite a few Zetec Turbo engines running fine with only the single breather in the cam cover, but it's not ideal.

Easiest solution for the breather and oil return would be to remove the sump and have them fitted in that. My first Zetec Turbo had both in the sump. Again, whilst it's not ideal to have a breather that low, my engine did over 15,000 miles and numerous trips to Santa Pod with no issue and is still going now in a mate's car.

The hose going through to the bulkhead will be for a boost gauge. Not sure what's going on with the other plumbing, been awhile since I've seen a CVH inlet!

Last edited by XRT_si; 25-07-2016 at 11:19 AM.
Old 25-07-2016, 11:10 AM
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matthart
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That threaded hole is for the crankshaft locking pin when setting the timing, oil going in there is going to get hit by the crank and I'm surprised it's not just shooting back out.

Anyway, get the right bung in there and move the oil return to the sump, it's a catastrophe waiting to happen!!
Old 25-07-2016, 02:01 PM
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cge
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If you are using a cvh to zetec manifold adaptor you should have enough room to fit a 90° outlet for a front block breather.

Take the blue vac hose t piece out and run it directly from inlet to boost gauge, the 2 outlets on the inlet are for the original frst breather system so just link them together. I have no idea why someone would t those into the vac hose.

Chris
Old 25-07-2016, 02:33 PM
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t230
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i run two Zetec turbo - both run cam to catch tank (with a check valve) which then returns to air filter/turbo . Both run the original pcv valve to intake with another check valve plumb in , no oil problems no boost problems..good simple efficient design...

as for union had push fit adapter welded..removed lower sump and upper supm sent off for welding..
Old 25-07-2016, 05:53 PM
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As above. They have modified the timing pin hole. It's been opened up and the cast iron wouldn't have been easy to tap. It's been bodged and you can't really reverse it.

The Rs has a push in pipe with an O ring seal and a retainer plate. For mine I've tapped tha same bung to 3/8bspt and fitted a 5/16 (16mm) stainless barb.



Last edited by big_wasa; 25-07-2016 at 05:56 PM.
Old 25-07-2016, 11:48 PM
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leedsrhinos126
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Cheers for the help guys massive help and a little clearer picture. Seems simple but just tracing previous owners short cuts, wiring is also a mess. At least the engine runs ok. This is a short term project so i need to get cracking and get everything sorted to make the engine reliable.

So what it looks like i have to do is tap front of the block and have a front mount breather as said above. plenty of room for that and in the end should this be connected to the catch tank?

Also i will be removing the sump for the turbo oil return weld on type if i can find one. No look so far i can only find a 3/4 weld in boss.

For the inlet vac pipes i guess a counter sunk screw/bolt for the inlet adapter plate will give me a couple off millimeters to actually get the vac pipes on the connect them up correctly as suggested above. and Top of the inlet directly to the boost gauge.

What on earth was the previous owner thinking


Massive Thanks
Ryan
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