FIESTA RS1800 Front and rear camber
#1
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Thread Starter
FIESTA RS1800 Front and rear camber
In car link
Took the RS to Time attack over the weekend and some some track time. Also done a few trackdays now but cars struggling with few issues.
When I had the car tracked up they advised me to get some camber as the car standard needs more.
However the only way to go I can see is comp brake bottom arms. They are rose joints and won't last very long with it also being a road going track car.
Top mounts there is nothing to work with regarding them as its mounted with a inner bush and top plate.
With the rear being on a solid rear beam is there anything I can do to get more rear camber too?
Any advice where to go? Or does anyone do anything to make the front more adjustable.
Thanks,
Sii
Last edited by Bosch; 28-04-2016 at 03:45 PM.
#2
Regular Contributor
On the rear you can shim the bottom two bolts to kick the bottom out a little and leave the top ones as they are. Just use one or two thin washers between the hub and the rear beam
#3
Advanced PassionFord User
Lower arms and rose joints will last as long as long as you ain't going over speed bumps all the time and locking the bearings out , fit them with high angle spacers which will help a little. Just use a good rose joint like somewhere from mcgills Motorsport heavy duty ones. Top mount rotate on the bolt holes allowing you move the the centre point of the suspension strut. For ease I would use mk2 escort ones that have a sliding part in the middle allowing you to move the centre point by just undoing 4 m6 bolts.
Rear beam you need a proper shim making like they use on the the focus rs mk1 to widen the track but have the angle degree machines on one side , and if they only cost Ł20 to machine up get the angle made from 1 degree up to 5 degree + -
Hope this helps
Cheers paul
Rear beam you need a proper shim making like they use on the the focus rs mk1 to widen the track but have the angle degree machines on one side , and if they only cost Ł20 to machine up get the angle made from 1 degree up to 5 degree + -
Hope this helps
Cheers paul
Last edited by zetaboostboy522bhp; 30-04-2016 at 08:19 AM.
#4
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Thread Starter
Lower arms and rose joints will last as long as long as you ain't going over speed bumps all the time and locking the bearings out , fit them with high angle spacers which will help a little. Just use a good rose joint like somewhere from mcgills Motorsport heavy duty ones. Top mount rotate on the bolt holes allowing you move the the centre point of the suspension strut. For ease I would use mk2 escort ones that have a sliding part in the middle allowing you to move the centre point by just undoing 4 m6 bolts.
Rear beam you need a proper shim making like they use on the the focus rs mk1 to widen the track but have the angle degree machines on one side , and if they only cost Ł20 to machine up get the angle made from 1 degree up to 5 degree + -
Hope this helps
Cheers paul
Rear beam you need a proper shim making like they use on the the focus rs mk1 to widen the track but have the angle degree machines on one side , and if they only cost Ł20 to machine up get the angle made from 1 degree up to 5 degree + -
Hope this helps
Cheers paul
I've sourced someone to rear shim plate the rear, here's my current camber
Ignore the front we found top mount to be lose and made that the same as passenger side 1,26.
Not sure what you recomend for the front and rear.
Top mounts on the front are a cone style top mount so I think it needs chopping off with a flat plate to bolt to.
That above is my style of standard top mount. Currently running GAZ coilovers and it's the Mk3.5
I can see that the top mount cone can be removed leaving a flat area however that means the Coilover will be lower down. Maybe a circle plate can be made and welded on to make the height correct and then this be bolted on. Comp brake circle top mounts
Bottom arms still unsure on rose joints as with the condition of roads at the moment it'll be harsh
Thanks for all the support
Last edited by Bosch; 03-05-2016 at 03:35 PM.
#5
Advanced PassionFord User
I know mk3 fiestas very well have own every model since I started driving lol , yes you need to cut the top of the strut off and plate and ideally keep the same height as your coil overs are already purchased and specked to the car.
Use industrial thick walled tubing something like 4mm thick cut to suit your height and then weld a laser cut plate again 5mm thick to suit your top mount , they are the top mounts I was on about but heard lots of bad things about quality of comp brake items so would be looking at another company to supply them .
Rose joints aren't that bad like I said before unless you have loads of speed humps everywhere but my old fiesta rs 1800 used to be like a go cart going around corners and on B roads it could more than hold it own
Cheers paul
Use industrial thick walled tubing something like 4mm thick cut to suit your height and then weld a laser cut plate again 5mm thick to suit your top mount , they are the top mounts I was on about but heard lots of bad things about quality of comp brake items so would be looking at another company to supply them .
Rose joints aren't that bad like I said before unless you have loads of speed humps everywhere but my old fiesta rs 1800 used to be like a go cart going around corners and on B roads it could more than hold it own
Cheers paul
#6
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Thread Starter
I know mk3 fiestas very well have own every model since I started driving lol , yes you need to cut the top of the strut off and plate and ideally keep the same height as your coil overs are already purchased and specked to the car.
Use industrial thick walled tubing something like 4mm thick cut to suit your height and then weld a laser cut plate again 5mm thick to suit your top mount , they are the top mounts I was on about but heard lots of bad things about quality of comp brake items so would be looking at another company to supply them .
Rose joints aren't that bad like I said before unless you have loads of speed humps everywhere but my old fiesta rs 1800 used to be like a go cart going around corners and on B roads it could more than hold it own
Cheers paul
Use industrial thick walled tubing something like 4mm thick cut to suit your height and then weld a laser cut plate again 5mm thick to suit your top mount , they are the top mounts I was on about but heard lots of bad things about quality of comp brake items so would be looking at another company to supply them .
Rose joints aren't that bad like I said before unless you have loads of speed humps everywhere but my old fiesta rs 1800 used to be like a go cart going around corners and on B roads it could more than hold it own
Cheers paul
Car does handle really well, still room for improvements tho. Currently just poly bushes and semi-slicks and handles awesome, but like I say it can be better.
What advice would you give regarding the best camber settings.
Front camber
Front tow
Front caster
Rear camber
Rear tow
Rear caster
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#8
Regular Contributor
If you drill out the rivets holding on the lower ball joint and change them to bolts with slotted holes can you make camber adjustments that way?
...or is that a dodgy way of doing it? /too hard to adjust accurately?
...or is that a dodgy way of doing it? /too hard to adjust accurately?
#9
Advanced PassionFord User
I would personally use the compbrake ones that use a rose joint as the lower ball joint with a machined pin as these would be a lot easier to adjust.
Or get building your own as they are only two bearing carriers welded to the original arms and a bit of threaded tube
Cheers paul
#10
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Thread Starter
I just noticed that when on track, the wheel folds over. Wear seams even all round.
#12
PassionFord Post Troll
iTrader: (3)
You mean it's rolling the tyre over on the rim?
If the wear is even I would be tempted to increase the spring rate instead of adding camber.
Increasing the castor would also give you more dynamic camber without sacrificing too much grip in a straight line.
Not that it helps you much as castor is as difficult to add as camber on these.
Modifying the turret to take an adjustable top mount is probably your best option.
If the wear is even I would be tempted to increase the spring rate instead of adding camber.
Increasing the castor would also give you more dynamic camber without sacrificing too much grip in a straight line.
Not that it helps you much as castor is as difficult to add as camber on these.
Modifying the turret to take an adjustable top mount is probably your best option.
#13
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Thread Starter
#14
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Thread Starter
You mean it's rolling the tyre over on the rim?
If the wear is even I would be tempted to increase the spring rate instead of adding camber.
Increasing the castor would also give you more dynamic camber without sacrificing too much grip in a straight line.
Not that it helps you much as castor is as difficult to add as camber on these.
Modifying the turret to take an adjustable top mount is probably your best option.
If the wear is even I would be tempted to increase the spring rate instead of adding camber.
Increasing the castor would also give you more dynamic camber without sacrificing too much grip in a straight line.
Not that it helps you much as castor is as difficult to add as camber on these.
Modifying the turret to take an adjustable top mount is probably your best option.
I'll aim towards top mounts and work from that. I'll more than likely get it booked in and have it done professionally rather than me doing it, as I want it decent LOL
#15
10K+ Poster!!
Nice vid, seems to go well.
I think you could benefit a little speed out of corners if you unwind the lock a bit quicker and get back to the outside line faster. Also on a few down changes it sounded / looked like you were coming up off the couch quite hard which unbalances the car, maybe a more matching of the revs or sustained change.
Only comments trying to help, not criticisms. Only stuff I was taught that I kept doing.
I think you could benefit a little speed out of corners if you unwind the lock a bit quicker and get back to the outside line faster. Also on a few down changes it sounded / looked like you were coming up off the couch quite hard which unbalances the car, maybe a more matching of the revs or sustained change.
Only comments trying to help, not criticisms. Only stuff I was taught that I kept doing.
#16
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Thread Starter
Nice vid, seems to go well.
I think you could benefit a little speed out of corners if you unwind the lock a bit quicker and get back to the outside line faster. Also on a few down changes it sounded / looked like you were coming up off the couch quite hard which unbalances the car, maybe a more matching of the revs or sustained change.
Only comments trying to help, not criticisms. Only stuff I was taught that I kept doing.
I think you could benefit a little speed out of corners if you unwind the lock a bit quicker and get back to the outside line faster. Also on a few down changes it sounded / looked like you were coming up off the couch quite hard which unbalances the car, maybe a more matching of the revs or sustained change.
Only comments trying to help, not criticisms. Only stuff I was taught that I kept doing.
I've watched the video back a fair few times to learn more. I wasn't fully on it due to only getting two flying laps as such. I've got a holiday soon and once that's done I'll be doing a few full days and evening sessions. Hopefully will get Ronnie Amis out with me to teach me more.
Yeah I do need to work on my down shifting too, get better at like you say matching the speed with the gear. Some corners I could of been more flat too and getting the right lines could mean carrying more speed and less down shift.
Thanks for the advice tho, something I'll deffo keep in mind on my next full day
#17
10K+ Poster!!
No worries, I was concerned it might come across the wrong way. Only minor points and I can see you were much quicker than everyone else out there. I always think I am at my best and then I go out with an instructor and they find many things that need work.
#18
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Thread Starter
This video was from sessions in time attack. Cheap quick fun really, very fustrating due to slower cars and others just not getting out your way. That Subaru I had to let passed on the pit straight then as you can see done him round the goose neck. Once passed that Astra never seen them two again. That mini was fun tho, he was really pushing hard to keep up, and like I say, was fast through the quick sections just the longer corners need to brush on my line.
Always learning tho, hopefully I may see you on track. Give us a bump if you do, gotta love some rubbing haha
#19
Advanced PassionFord User
That's cool, always up for advice and improvements. Sometimes you don't notice it yourself. Never really wanted to door to door race but deffo want to get faster and improve more. Hopefully once the handling is sorted and I've got a cage and few other bits it'll be new engine time and then compete in either hill climbs, sprints and will be doing one round of time attack.
This video was from sessions in time attack. Cheap quick fun really, very fustrating due to slower cars and others just not getting out your way. That Subaru I had to let passed on the pit straight then as you can see done him round the goose neck. Once passed that Astra never seen them two again. That mini was fun tho, he was really pushing hard to keep up, and like I say, was fast through the quick sections just the longer corners need to brush on my line.
Always learning tho, hopefully I may see you on track. Give us a bump if you do, gotta love some rubbing haha
This video was from sessions in time attack. Cheap quick fun really, very fustrating due to slower cars and others just not getting out your way. That Subaru I had to let passed on the pit straight then as you can see done him round the goose neck. Once passed that Astra never seen them two again. That mini was fun tho, he was really pushing hard to keep up, and like I say, was fast through the quick sections just the longer corners need to brush on my line.
Always learning tho, hopefully I may see you on track. Give us a bump if you do, gotta love some rubbing haha
300 bhp in one will make a great track car
Cheers paul
#20
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Thread Starter
I'm going for something a little different to the zetec turbo route. I'm going to be running a 1.6 Eco boost engine from the fiesta ST180. Tuned to around 350-400 but will have it on a syvex ecu. Means I can run various maps, road, track, full boost. Plus means a progress boost to get rid of any spin. Then run various sensors too to stop any knocks or surge damage. I'd have to change the clocks over so will patch a digital dash to the syvex.
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