Adam-M

Sounds very strange this interested to see the outcome

VEEDUBBED

Bloodywell tell me about it..
The only other thing i can think of is 'maybe' for some weird reason known only to the manufaturer is that leaving off the battery, disconnected for a few days, somehow it's buggered something on the immobilizer circuit. It would be an absolute first for me and i've been repsiting cars along time, including Korean stuff.
Problem is that 1, there's no led on the dash, like say a Daewoo matiz yhat tells you that the car has been immobilized and two i don't know what component would be 'immobilized' pump, injectors or ecu??
Unfortunatly, the scanner i've been lent isn't anywere near dealer level stuff so i can't interrogate the software.

Bailes1992

If it is an air lock then you need to suck fuel through the return while cranking.
If you can't get to the pump then get to the return at the tank, get a pump on it and suck until you have a steady stream of diesel, get someone else to crank and get someone else to put some easy start down the intake. It will be messy but you should clear any issues.

I used to have this issue with my Mondeo. The rail would fill with air which the pump couldn't compress. The ECU never saw 300bar so never opened the injectors.
I used to suck fuel through the return, get someone else to crank while I sprayed easy start down the intake. It would usually be running on it's own steam in 5 seconds.

tony66

iTrader: (7)

its only nuts bolts wires and a few circuit boards-always fixable ,dont let it get to you-much as it can build frustration

gcfcos

U need a scanner with live data capability and obviously the information what the readings are supposed to be from various sensors etc. Maybe worth employing a mobile vehicle electrician who can eliminate Any electrical problem, at least then you'll know it's a mechanical problem?

stevieturbo

A generic OBD scanner will give you zero information about the immobiliser status, and as said above, you need to view live data to see what's going on during cranking.
Again generic OBD is more limited with data than a proper scanner.

VEEDUBBED

Car's not in the uk peeps, if only.. Trying to get a proper hyundai scan tool is out of the question here, in the whole of Italy there's probably 5/10 tops of these shit heaps and mobile mechanics don't exist here.. As i said before, rail is completely full of fuel, nothing exits the pump, whatever i do, just read the previous poems i've wrote..
Something is blocking the outlet from the hp pump, as if there's an immobiliser triggered but no warning lights are on, engine check light goes out after a bit, i'm assuming this as normal.
Whilst cranking the rev counter moves very slightly so i guess a signal is being sent to the ecu by the rpm sensor. Force feeding the high pressure pump from the tank using an external fuel pump pumps fuel around the entire run of pipes back to the tank, nothing comes out of the pump's feed to the rail, although it's full.
The annoying thing is that on this model there's no LED or dash light that lights up when the key is removed, unlike conventional cars.
Tomorrow i'm gonna try a spare key that, by magic, has now appeard..
Let's see if maybe the spare key could trigger something within the immob's ecu, as i said before, maybe owing to the fact that the battery has been disconnected it fukked with the immob's programming.
I can't find any info regarding the immobilser system fitted to this hemmaroid on 4 wheels so basicly i'm fukked.

stevieturbo

So detail EXACTLY what you did from when it last ran good, until you tried to start it the next time ?

VEEDUBBED

Going in it ran fine.
Jacked up, changed engine oil, filter, air filter,diesel fuel filter,2x clutch pumps, 1 alt./p.steering/a/c belt, internal cabin pollon filter and the motorised steering coloum with a recon. Unit, just the motor and torque angle sensor half, not the upper part with the ign. Switch, steering wheel with airbag or imm. Coil.
That's it.

stevieturbo

clutch pumps ?

I'd be having a good look in around the steering column in case you've accidently unplugged something or broken a wire etc.

And really one way or another, you need a live data reading of actual pump pressure, or to test the rail pressure sensor to see if there is even pressure in there that might allow the engine to start.

VEEDUBBED

Steve,
Both clutch pumps have been changed 'cos this pos has a hydraulic clutch set-up, both pumps were leaking and i could barely lift the clutch pedal without the clutch engaging fiercely, making the car virtually undrivable because the pumps weren't compressing the clutch plate enough to disengage the clutch so it dragged.
All wiring plugs are in place on the upper steering coloum, i've checked them all twice now, they are all plugged in, otherwise i'd expect the engine check light or EPS light to remain illuminated, nothing, all lights go out as they should.
I'm taking out the the instrument panel to check and see if there is an immobilizer light present and that someone in the past hasn't 'fiddled' with the bulb or fukked with the actual immobilizer, although who the fuk would want to steal this heap is beyond me..
First i'll try the spare key, then the dash panel, it could be just a simple blown bulb.
There's no pressure in the rail, it's completely open with no feed pipes attached to either the rail or injectors 'cos the pump isn't supplying any fuel under pressure, hence the rail always being full as it's not going anywhere.
The fuel present within the rail is the same dam fuel it went in with before changing that cursed fuel filter, NOTHING exits the pump's high pressure outlet to the feed pipe to rail, not even a fukkin air bubble.
Absolute ball ache.

stevieturbo

You mean either master or slave cylinder ? In the clutch area, do you need to press the clutch or anything like that to allow the engine to start ?

And your last comment mentions Coil ?

VEEDUBBED

Solved, it was a buggered immobilizer unit, that explains the cut in fuel then.
This must count as the world's first case of an immobilzer unit and key breaking, loosing its internal code or whatever the christ caused this strange problem, i've no explanayion what so ever. I msnaged to pursuade a friend of the tow truck driver who was meant to tow the heap away to a Hyundai dealer miles away. He lent me the proper kit and i programmed in the unit and the two keys. No faults stored in either the immobilizer or bcm/ injection ecu. I have no logical explanation for this.
All work was done with the battery disconnected, after i drove it in as i mentioned before.
Huge question is, could it happen again??...
I hope i never see a Hyundai again.

gcfcos

Happy days mate, although there's your answer "the battery disconnected". Some modern cars won't start after the battery's been disconnected, u have to re programme it to start. Had a Peugeot 5008 in today that had to have the battery disconnected. Had to save the info on the computer scanner with it left on, do the job and then after reconnecting the battery had to re programme the car in order for it to start. Modern cars really can be shit lol

VEEDUBBED

Jesus, i remember crap like that with the old rover 800's, you'd have thought the manufactures would have eliminated shit like this. Progress...

natehall

iTrader: (2)

now its fixed.. SELL it quickly and buy a decent car!

gcfcos

Yeah I remember back in the day rover 25s with the same thing . To be honest this Peugeot was only the second car I've ever come accross where I've had to do it, the other was a late Peugeot 207 sw. Stupid idea

slider

thanks for sharing with us and while i felt youre pain it made me laugh a few times just how much you hated it

VEEDUBBED

Well guys it's NOT over yet...!!!!
Get the hobnobs out.. Right, after going through all that drama i reluctently carried on with the normal service, just like any other car. NOT SO WITH THIS HEAP, car's still on axle stands so i fill the washer res. Up with water and screen wash stuff, i notice a few drips of water on the floor, didn't pay much heed.. So unjacks the bugger starts it and goes up the garage ramp to try it out and see if the steering wheel is pointing straight, remember, this is NOT a normal jalopy say like a Ford that has a cutout on the steering shaft so it'easy to align..ok, miles out, even though i marked the fekkin shaft. Sooo back down to the garage we go, muggins here removes steering wheel and sets the effin steering wheel straight. Out again for the second time, this time i lower the drivers side window..steering wheel ok so i want to park the steaming heap outside the garage..ok, park, and presses electric window switch to close window...YES, YOU FUKKING GUESSED IT, the bloody window doesn't move, up or down, neither does the passenger side.. BACK down inside garage to check the fuses (Fukkin hyundai fit FOUR FUSES for the power widows..) all fine. So i try and remove the electric window switch...something normally so simple..
NOT FUKKIN SO, in order to remove the switch the entire door panel has to be removed!! The fukkers screwed the switch onto the door panel from the inside. Sooo it means that you have to pull the door panel off with force to disengage the plastic pin things that snap into the door..BUT..the fuktard who assembled the shitheap made the wires too short So when you give a herculean tug you rip out the innerds of the electric window switch..
After getting this far i've checked the motor feeds for 12v with ignition on, nothing, no currant on either the or the motor when depressing the main switchs.
Almost forgot, when returning to the garage for the second time i decide to try and remove the pass's electric window switch, that's when i find around 2 inches of fukkin water in the passeger footwell, Wtf now, were's the fukkin water come from? Sooo i dry up the water and start to try and figure out wtf has gone on, there's me thinking that maybe these daft clots have maybe fitted the electric window relays directly under were the water has leaked in, with these kuntz ANYTHING is possible..Sooo i then start removing a couple of trim panels directly under the dash and one on the sill..under the sill kick plate i find the rubber pipe that feeds the rear washer bottle DETACHED AND NEVER FITTED SINCE THIS FUKKIN HEAP LEFT THE FACTORY, SO THE 4 LITRES OF WASHER FLUID FILLED UP THE FOOTWELL, leaking down the open pipe.
Lastly, i had to change the two rear number plate light bulbs, easy enough, just 4 screws...NOT FUKKIN SO..the barfbag responsible of designing this cage fitted the plastic light units inside the boot handle you use to raise the boot, normal enough, NO, the handle is made in a way that it srouds the fixing screws so if you do try and loosen them sll you succeed in doing is rounding of the heads..Sooo one is forced to remove the inner boot panel in order to remove the while fukkin handle..easy, just a plasit cover,no? NOT FUKKIN SO, inorder to remove the cover you have to grasp it and PULL HARD..yep, you got, it breaks..ever patient one soldiers on to remove the handle..easy enough, just two 10mm nuts..NOT FUKKIN SO PEEPS..not only are there the nuts, there's also those nasty fukkin plastic bayonet clip things, similuer the the things used to attach side trim to doors, problem is that here, the boot is DOUBLE FUKKIN SKINNED so you can't remove the handle without causing damage..FINALLY i reach the blown bulbs only to have BOTH FUKKING BULB HOLDERS SNAP OFF DUE TO BRITTLE, SHIYTE PLASTIC...ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR FUKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK.
As you can see i've had a fun packed week with this barnicle.
I only have the strength to ask just one question guys, does anyone know WHERE THE FUKKIN ELECTRIC WINDOW RELAY IS??????????????????????PLEEEEEEEEEEZZZZZZZEEEEEEE .

Adam-M

Jesus mate this has been a bloody nightmare, lesson learned never go near one of these Korean piles of shit

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Fook me matey that car is having your life.

st220kyle

This thread reminds me of victor meldrew 😂

Gazzonator

iTrader: (9)

Am I right in thinking you're not a fan of Hyundais?

gcfcos

U can really see why these cars are so cheap to buy nowadays. I'd never have a "cheap" new car past its warranty. There built so cheap just thrown together with no regard for maintainance. Being a mechanic these days is so much harder than when I started
In 1996

stevieturbo

To be fair, the description is the same as a lot of "expensive" cars these days too, except they cost more to buy and repair.

They're still bundles of shit.

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

My wife has got an i20 diesel, it's an 09 plate with 120k on it. Its worth fook all but apart from a blocked heater matrix a couple of years ago that was fixed under the 5 year warranty it's been faultless. It has aircon, power fold mirrors, 4 elec windows and does 65mpg all day long. Can't beat it really.

Adam-M

Just don't offer to fix it for her

Mark V8

iTrader: (2)

VEEDUBBED

Ha! Just jow i fookinwell felt..
BUT...NOOOO....it aint over yet...!!!
Now it's time to tell the tale about the electric windows, remember? Fukkers just stopped whilst leaving the garage ramp..
It turns out that, after much studying the varios forums, there aren't 'only' 4 fekkin fuses for the windows..no sir..they also share the same 12v supply for the FUKKIN BRAKE LIGHTS..ffs how fukked up is this bloody cage manufacturer??
Sooo, after finally finding the hidden fith bloody fuse and after skinning one's knuckles getting the innaccsessable little shit out and replacing it with it's 10amp equivalent i goes out again to park outside...YES, you've guessed it again..no brake lights or fukkin windows AGAIN.. Sooo, back it back in again and replace the fuse, same thing happens 3 times..to cut to the bone, one of the brand new back brake/tail lamp bulbs was faulty and causing the fuse to blow, i couldn't see that the bulb was not working 'cos it was on my blind side and i was working alone at night..
SOOO, i'm gonna ask a simple question and hope that one of the walking penius's who designed this rat is reading this romance...WTF IS THE POINT OF FITTING 5 FUKKIN FUSES ON THE SAME LINE (2X25amp and two big 30amp) IF THE 10AMP PUNY FUSE THAT ALSO COVERS THE STOP LIGHTS BLOWS, ONE REMAINS WITHOUT ANY WINDOWS??????? YOU FUKKIN CLOT, WHOEVER YOU ARE.
FINALLY, I got shot of the fukking cockroach last nite, and nearly kicked my mate...

gcfcos

I was Doing a compression test on a Peugeot 207 the other day. Looked on Autodata to find the fuel pump fuse to stop fuel getting into the cylinder, took the fuse out and pump still working! 3 more fuses removed and the pump stopped working. 4 bloody fuses!!!!

trigger-

Kill it with fire!