Xenon's Escos ???
#1
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
Xenon's Escos ???
Without running the risk of being called every name under the sun for asking this question .....here goes
ive got morettes fitted to my escos and im rather bored of the standard light coming out of them ......personally not a fan of xenon bulbs , would rather go the full hog i.e. Balasts and propper xenons.
Question
has anyone fitted xenons to their cars either bulbs or complete kits and if so what do you think of them ? Also where is the best place to get a xenon kit from ???
not 100% sold on the idea but if i get a positive responce from this post then it may just sway me
ive got morettes fitted to my escos and im rather bored of the standard light coming out of them ......personally not a fan of xenon bulbs , would rather go the full hog i.e. Balasts and propper xenons.
Question
has anyone fitted xenons to their cars either bulbs or complete kits and if so what do you think of them ? Also where is the best place to get a xenon kit from ???
not 100% sold on the idea but if i get a positive responce from this post then it may just sway me
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
if using with morettes you should be fine and is a decent upgrade its only when people retro fit them into std headlights issues arise from random beam pattern and blinding every sod coming other way, plenty of online places sell them for around £40 just go for ones around 5k and check out sellers rep for peace of mind
Trending Topics
#8
Professional Waffler
You must fit a HID kit to a projector lense or you will dazzle people. Reflector lenses simply don't have adequate cut off or control.
In theory the bluer you go the better but in reality 4300k to 6000k seems to work the best.
In theory the bluer you go the better but in reality 4300k to 6000k seems to work the best.
Last edited by Oranoco; 24-02-2015 at 05:45 PM.
#12
Irritating c........
iTrader: (1)
Standard HID/Xenon from manufacturers (Jag, BMW, R'Rover, etc) are 4300k. Anything past this you actually lose light (the higher the kelvin number, the lesser the visible light output). 4300k is the closest to natural (i.e. the sun) light. So if your Range has the standard bulbs fitted, then it's 4300k. 43's are a slight touch tinged on the yellow side, but 6k are definitely tinged on the blue side. Anything above 6k is pointless as blue is generally the first colour of the spectrum that is absorbed, so the roads begin to look dimmer to us (as our eyes are receptive to light reflection). 5000k is a good middle ground between the 4300 and 6000, although even 5000k is erring on the blue tinged side. 45-4700k would be the truest white.
I've got 5000's in mine, and when I change my kit (as I think I've got a dodgy ballast, I'll probably go for 4300k, unless I can find a good 4500k set.
As Richie says, the best way would be retrofitting a set of projectors (which is what your Range has). Projectors work by focusing the beam rather than reflecting is (standard headlights are called "reflectors" for exactly that reason - they reflect the light to "amplify" it). If you're not going to use projectors, you can still run HID's in a reflector headlight, but you'll need to align and angle them correctly so as not to dazzle oncoming traffic, because the light will scatter more noticeable than a halogen bulb (a standard 100w halogen light produces around 1700 lumens at the source, while HID's can output as much as 6000 lumens each at less power, due to their lumen per watt efficiency). For this reason, stick with the 35w kits rather than 50w - 35w will be MORE than a noticeable improvement over a halogen of any wattage, but will help fight against a the scatter HID's in non-projector fittings.
I've got 5000's in mine, and when I change my kit (as I think I've got a dodgy ballast, I'll probably go for 4300k, unless I can find a good 4500k set.
As Richie says, the best way would be retrofitting a set of projectors (which is what your Range has). Projectors work by focusing the beam rather than reflecting is (standard headlights are called "reflectors" for exactly that reason - they reflect the light to "amplify" it). If you're not going to use projectors, you can still run HID's in a reflector headlight, but you'll need to align and angle them correctly so as not to dazzle oncoming traffic, because the light will scatter more noticeable than a halogen bulb (a standard 100w halogen light produces around 1700 lumens at the source, while HID's can output as much as 6000 lumens each at less power, due to their lumen per watt efficiency). For this reason, stick with the 35w kits rather than 50w - 35w will be MORE than a noticeable improvement over a halogen of any wattage, but will help fight against a the scatter HID's in non-projector fittings.
#14
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thrush, that is quite the response.
Sorry to hijack but a quick question.
What's the legality on the LED headlight bulbs? Upgrading all mine to led but not sure whether to go the White standard bulb or LED headlight bulb.
Sorry to hijack but a quick question.
What's the legality on the LED headlight bulbs? Upgrading all mine to led but not sure whether to go the White standard bulb or LED headlight bulb.
#15
Professional Waffler
Standard HID/Xenon from manufacturers (Jag, BMW, R'Rover, etc) are 4300k. Anything past this you actually lose light (the higher the kelvin number, the lesser the visible light output). 4300k is the closest to natural (i.e. the sun) light. So if your Range has the standard bulbs fitted, then it's 4300k. 43's are a slight touch tinged on the yellow side, but 6k are definitely tinged on the blue side. Anything above 6k is pointless as blue is generally the first colour of the spectrum that is absorbed, so the roads begin to look dimmer to us (as our eyes are receptive to light reflection). 5000k is a good middle ground between the 4300 and 6000, although even 5000k is erring on the blue tinged side. 45-4700k would be the truest white.
I've got 5000's in mine, and when I change my kit (as I think I've got a dodgy ballast, I'll probably go for 4300k, unless I can find a good 4500k set.
As Richie says, the best way would be retrofitting a set of projectors (which is what your Range has). Projectors work by focusing the beam rather than reflecting is (standard headlights are called "reflectors" for exactly that reason - they reflect the light to "amplify" it). If you're not going to use projectors, you can still run HID's in a reflector headlight, but you'll need to align and angle them correctly so as not to dazzle oncoming traffic, because the light will scatter more noticeable than a halogen bulb (a standard 100w halogen light produces around 1700 lumens at the source, while HID's can output as much as 6000 lumens each at less power, due to their lumen per watt efficiency). For this reason, stick with the 35w kits rather than 50w - 35w will be MORE than a noticeable improvement over a halogen of any wattage, but will help fight against a the scatter HID's in non-projector fittings.
I've got 5000's in mine, and when I change my kit (as I think I've got a dodgy ballast, I'll probably go for 4300k, unless I can find a good 4500k set.
As Richie says, the best way would be retrofitting a set of projectors (which is what your Range has). Projectors work by focusing the beam rather than reflecting is (standard headlights are called "reflectors" for exactly that reason - they reflect the light to "amplify" it). If you're not going to use projectors, you can still run HID's in a reflector headlight, but you'll need to align and angle them correctly so as not to dazzle oncoming traffic, because the light will scatter more noticeable than a halogen bulb (a standard 100w halogen light produces around 1700 lumens at the source, while HID's can output as much as 6000 lumens each at less power, due to their lumen per watt efficiency). For this reason, stick with the 35w kits rather than 50w - 35w will be MORE than a noticeable improvement over a halogen of any wattage, but will help fight against a the scatter HID's in non-projector fittings.
Worth noting back stage in theaters blue light is often used as it doesn't intrude on the main stage lighting whilst allowing crew good visibilty to perform tasks. I dabble as crew for my Mrs amateur dramatics group.
This was actually a topic of conversation whilst I attended a lighting designers course last year.
#16
Irritating c........
iTrader: (1)
Maybe so, but the bluer you go, the less light output you get, and blue is the first hue of the spectrum that will be absorbed rather than reflected on the tarmac and conditions we generally drive in. I read something somewhere about the drier the area you live in, the less the absorption effect is, and places that often have dark wet roads (dark as in tarmac colour, and wet as in it often rains), going 6000k and up will result in loss of light output as well as being more tiring on the eye (I guess this is similar in effect to how eyes get tired when in strip light environments a lot? Conjecture there on my part). So, seeing as we are in England where it rains a lot, and we generally have dark tarmac (as opposed to many places that have the light, almost beige concrete tarmac)...
And yeah, I read a LOT when it came to upgrading the lights in my car. The standard halogens are like candles, and I found I was using the fogs a lot, even on normal roads. Non lit country roads, high beams were an absolute must, so I researched HID's a good deal before getting them. I was concerned with scatter and glare, as I know how annoying it can be when a car coming towards you dazzles you. When I first fitted them, with the headlight angle set to default I was getting some flashes from oncoming cars, but with the angle set to 2 (might be 2.5, can't remember) I haven't had any. Angling them down a bit clearly stops, or at least vastly reduces blinding people, but the trade off is they throw a little less far on the road. However, I've got so much better light output on the road itself, and the width is sufficient enough to light the pavement and/or tree line on the left.
Next project will be like Richie, and installing a proper projector set. Either something like the Morimoto's or possibly retrofitting an existing pair of projectors into the headlights - the LS430 has some of the widest beams on the market, and although they're a LOT of work to get in and OEM, they do look hella cool!
And yeah, I read a LOT when it came to upgrading the lights in my car. The standard halogens are like candles, and I found I was using the fogs a lot, even on normal roads. Non lit country roads, high beams were an absolute must, so I researched HID's a good deal before getting them. I was concerned with scatter and glare, as I know how annoying it can be when a car coming towards you dazzles you. When I first fitted them, with the headlight angle set to default I was getting some flashes from oncoming cars, but with the angle set to 2 (might be 2.5, can't remember) I haven't had any. Angling them down a bit clearly stops, or at least vastly reduces blinding people, but the trade off is they throw a little less far on the road. However, I've got so much better light output on the road itself, and the width is sufficient enough to light the pavement and/or tree line on the left.
Next project will be like Richie, and installing a proper projector set. Either something like the Morimoto's or possibly retrofitting an existing pair of projectors into the headlights - the LS430 has some of the widest beams on the market, and although they're a LOT of work to get in and OEM, they do look hella cool!
#17
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Some kits are available for reflector lamps, one of my work mates has them and they are fine with no random beam skatter blinding light.
#18
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
correct me if im wrong but dont morette do projector lenses for kits they make for peugeot , vw etc ? i wonder if it is possible to buy the lens to fit into the headlight cluster providing they are the right size ?
just a thought ?
just a thought ?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post