What parts for subframe swap
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What parts for subframe swap
Hi does anyone know what parts im going to need to replace the subframe on my st170, i have a used subframe new wishbones and i think i need 6 subframe bolts, pinch bolt for the steering shaft and i was going to get new anti rollbar bushes, will i get away with reusing the wishbone bolts as the subrame came with wishbones so i figured out of the old subframe and the new one i would be able to salvage enough, have i missed anything? thanks.
#2
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
You will need two steering column pinch bolts and it is a good idea to replace the funnel over the column to prevent future water ingress. Two pinch bolts as there is a riser piece off the rack.
You will also need some 'o' rings for the steering rack oil lines.
Also alignment is critical and you should really use a set of pins to do so.
Some pictures when I did this to replace the steering rack;
Pins in before I removed the S/F. It it didn't wasn't lined up to start with then trouble could be had later on.
S/F laying on the floor, note the riser piece on the column which you may or may not need the 2nd bolt for.
Make sure you set the ARB height properly
New rack, everything clean and ready to fit
New and old funnel. You can see how squished the old one was and how this could easily lead to water ingress.
Pins back in when re-fitted
Hope this helps. All done with only a trolley jack and obviously make sure the car is very well supported and cannot fall or be pulled off any axle stands. I put the some steel wheels under and a load of wood (as can be seen in the last picture) so the car could not go anywhere even if I did pull it off the axle stands undoing some of the very tight bolts.
You will also need some 'o' rings for the steering rack oil lines.
Also alignment is critical and you should really use a set of pins to do so.
Some pictures when I did this to replace the steering rack;
Pins in before I removed the S/F. It it didn't wasn't lined up to start with then trouble could be had later on.
S/F laying on the floor, note the riser piece on the column which you may or may not need the 2nd bolt for.
Make sure you set the ARB height properly
New rack, everything clean and ready to fit
New and old funnel. You can see how squished the old one was and how this could easily lead to water ingress.
Pins back in when re-fitted
Hope this helps. All done with only a trolley jack and obviously make sure the car is very well supported and cannot fall or be pulled off any axle stands. I put the some steel wheels under and a load of wood (as can be seen in the last picture) so the car could not go anywhere even if I did pull it off the axle stands undoing some of the very tight bolts.
Last edited by Colin_P; 18-10-2014 at 11:20 AM.
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Cheers for that, i have alignment pins, they are for mondeos but hopefully they will fit, have you a parts number for the o rings and also do i need to replace all the bearing washers as the ones on top of the new subframe (secondhand) are still fixed in place, thanks.
#5
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
I did this four years ago so no part numbers.
The crush washers, as long as they are not rusty should be fine for re-use. I think all they are really for is to allow you to shift the S/F about to get the proper alignment before you wind the bolts up.
Also if you are doing this on your own then getting the S/F in and out and aligning it is much easier (lighter) with the wishbones off. If you have an assistant or are a body builder nutter then go for it with the W/B's on.
Not a difficult job to do but can be messy with the PAS oil.
The crush washers, as long as they are not rusty should be fine for re-use. I think all they are really for is to allow you to shift the S/F about to get the proper alignment before you wind the bolts up.
Also if you are doing this on your own then getting the S/F in and out and aligning it is much easier (lighter) with the wishbones off. If you have an assistant or are a body builder nutter then go for it with the W/B's on.
Not a difficult job to do but can be messy with the PAS oil.
#6
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I done all of the above after enthusiasm from Colin
I didn't bother with the alignment pins. I would buy new bolts mind as you may have problems getting the old ones out and they won't be reusable.
I bought the subframe/chassis bolts from Ford then had then zinc plated.
The others I sizes up and got them from my local fastener place £££'s cheaper.
I done the steering rack/arms etc whilst the whole thing was on the floor, then popped along to have the wheels re aligned, job done.
Then the next week I done the back axle
I didn't bother with the alignment pins. I would buy new bolts mind as you may have problems getting the old ones out and they won't be reusable.
I bought the subframe/chassis bolts from Ford then had then zinc plated.
The others I sizes up and got them from my local fastener place £££'s cheaper.
I done the steering rack/arms etc whilst the whole thing was on the floor, then popped along to have the wheels re aligned, job done.
Then the next week I done the back axle
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I did this four years ago so no part numbers.
The crush washers, as long as they are not rusty should be fine for re-use. I think all they are really for is to allow you to shift the S/F about to get the proper alignment before you wind the bolts up.
Also if you are doing this on your own then getting the S/F in and out and aligning it is much easier (lighter) with the wishbones off. If you have an assistant or are a body builder nutter then go for it with the W/B's on.
Not a difficult job to do but can be messy with the PAS oil.
The crush washers, as long as they are not rusty should be fine for re-use. I think all they are really for is to allow you to shift the S/F about to get the proper alignment before you wind the bolts up.
Also if you are doing this on your own then getting the S/F in and out and aligning it is much easier (lighter) with the wishbones off. If you have an assistant or are a body builder nutter then go for it with the W/B's on.
Not a difficult job to do but can be messy with the PAS oil.
#9
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
The PAS connection is a single block with a flow and return only so only two seals needed. I bought a spare set in case I fucked them up. Cheap enough to take this precaution. I didn't fuck them up and ended up giving them away with the alignment pin set when I sold it.
There are crush washers on the wishbones as well as the S/F.
I wouldn't bother getting new crush washers, the old ones should be fine.
There are crush washers on the wishbones as well as the S/F.
I wouldn't bother getting new crush washers, the old ones should be fine.
#12
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
It was a while ago but I think it is three bolts each side.
The crush washers sit on the top of the S/F only. Same for the wishbones. All they are for as far as I can establish is to make it easier to move things about and aligning prior to tightening everything up.
The crush washers sit on the top of the S/F only. Same for the wishbones. All they are for as far as I can establish is to make it easier to move things about and aligning prior to tightening everything up.
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