is this ls7 good value for money
#1
is this ls7 good value for money
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LS7-tuned-...-/111479491638
just nosing about v8 engines and came across this .seems not bad value for 640bhp and would probably go for years and years lol
just nosing about v8 engines and came across this .seems not bad value for 640bhp and would probably go for years and years lol
#7
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Trending Topics
#10
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LS7-tuned-...-/111479491638
just nosing about v8 engines and came across this .seems not bad value for 640bhp and would probably go for years and years lol
just nosing about v8 engines and came across this .seems not bad value for 640bhp and would probably go for years and years lol
You'll need to spend about another Ł5k at least before it would be a fully usable engine.
between accessories, ecu, exhaust manifolds, clutch, flywheel etc
And then whether the dry sump setup will easily fit in whatever chassis you're thinking of.
New LS Crate engines arent terribly priced, and you have a good range of options even with UK sellers
http://www.partsworldperformance.com...let-ls-engines
http://www.roadcraftuk.co.uk/index.p...tegory&path=37
But when it comes to LS engines....really the options are almost endless with massively varying price ranges.
their write up of the engine doesnt really sound like much special over a standard LS7. Sounds almost like the only change is camshaft, lifters, pushrods and springs really.
#13
Again depends. Are you looking for a brand new crate motor option ?
A complete used engine/trans to start from as a base ?
Have you a gearbox you'd want to try and re-use ?
I see some bog standard 6.2 LS3 cutouts for sale, engine/box, I presume with wiring and all ancillaries.
TBH for a conversion, something like that would be hard to beat as at least you know you'll have almost everything needed to get up and running. Then you could maybe add a pair of heads and cam after that and still be well below Ł15k budget for everything, installed and running.
What V8 was it before ? SBC fitment or other ? Do you need a highish rpm ability ? Most standard engines or mild crates probably wont rev much over 6k
A complete used engine/trans to start from as a base ?
Have you a gearbox you'd want to try and re-use ?
I see some bog standard 6.2 LS3 cutouts for sale, engine/box, I presume with wiring and all ancillaries.
TBH for a conversion, something like that would be hard to beat as at least you know you'll have almost everything needed to get up and running. Then you could maybe add a pair of heads and cam after that and still be well below Ł15k budget for everything, installed and running.
What V8 was it before ? SBC fitment or other ? Do you need a highish rpm ability ? Most standard engines or mild crates probably wont rev much over 6k
#14
This one is probably best all rounder. Again you'd need to add an ecu, alternator, PAS and usual other bits. But base engine seems a good all rounder
http://www.partsworldperformance.com...ngine-19301360
Roadcraft's prices are excluding VAT, so not much difference
http://www.partsworldperformance.com...ngine-19301360
Roadcraft's prices are excluding VAT, so not much difference
Last edited by stevieturbo; 12-10-2014 at 10:18 PM.
#15
just thinking reliable track car steve,doesnt have to be new but they seem very good value compared to yb.
im not sure what v8 was in it all though ive tries to find out a few times .i have a tko600 box and a mk rear beam with the jag diff .ive got some groupa a wrc front hubs that i hope to be able to run and fit front and rear groupa roll bars .our local[only]track is quite tight and twisty so big hp yb would be hard to keep on boost tbh so im just thinking aloud with these engines .i dont want to be spending 200quid on a track day and end up sitting in the pits broke down most of the time
im not sure what v8 was in it all though ive tries to find out a few times .i have a tko600 box and a mk rear beam with the jag diff .ive got some groupa a wrc front hubs that i hope to be able to run and fit front and rear groupa roll bars .our local[only]track is quite tight and twisty so big hp yb would be hard to keep on boost tbh so im just thinking aloud with these engines .i dont want to be spending 200quid on a track day and end up sitting in the pits broke down most of the time
Last edited by james kiely; 12-10-2014 at 10:31 PM.
#16
This one is probably best all rounder. Again you'd need to add an ecu, alternator, PAS and usual other bits. But base engine seems a good all rounder
http://www.partsworldperformance.com...ngine-19301360
Roadcraft's prices are excluding VAT, so not much difference
http://www.partsworldperformance.com...ngine-19301360
Roadcraft's prices are excluding VAT, so not much difference
it seems to be a no brainer
#17
Good think about most of the LS engines....even totally standard, they gladly take a little bit of boost too ( with correct tuning of course )
So even if the n/a engine gets a little boring, there's always more readily available.
Or same with better heads and cam or intake/exhausts if n/a
They are great engines and make good power for their physical size. Nice and simple
So even if the n/a engine gets a little boring, there's always more readily available.
Or same with better heads and cam or intake/exhausts if n/a
They are great engines and make good power for their physical size. Nice and simple
#19
Depends what you mean by responsive really.
I've only driven mine n/a for about 8-10 weeks in total.
First was when I originally fitted a bog standard 5.7 LS1 to the car about 10 years ago.
Std apart from exhaust, ecu etc which was because of the swap.
Even going from a 4.6 twin turbo Rover V8 to a n/a 5.7 LS1, I was bloody impressed
It did only stay that way for 4 weeks at most before I put the supercharger onto it though lol
Then a year or so ago when having alternator problems I was running my current 6.3 albeit n/a as just removed the blower belt for easier access. And TBH it felt fantastic too, and makes far nicer noises than when boosted
Air filter straight onto the inlet manifold. Sounded superb !
If you're anywhere near Birmingham give Craig at Dynotorque a shout. He's done a lot of conversions in various cars. A friend of his has a TVR with a well tuned 7.0 with throttle bodies and it flies.
Loads of TVR's etc convert theirs to LS engines now, as do many other vehicles. They're just great all rounders
But they're great as even a mildly tuned one will probably make more power/torque at 2000rpm than a lot of standard cossie engines make anywhere in the rpm range.
I've only driven mine n/a for about 8-10 weeks in total.
First was when I originally fitted a bog standard 5.7 LS1 to the car about 10 years ago.
Std apart from exhaust, ecu etc which was because of the swap.
Even going from a 4.6 twin turbo Rover V8 to a n/a 5.7 LS1, I was bloody impressed
It did only stay that way for 4 weeks at most before I put the supercharger onto it though lol
Then a year or so ago when having alternator problems I was running my current 6.3 albeit n/a as just removed the blower belt for easier access. And TBH it felt fantastic too, and makes far nicer noises than when boosted
Air filter straight onto the inlet manifold. Sounded superb !
If you're anywhere near Birmingham give Craig at Dynotorque a shout. He's done a lot of conversions in various cars. A friend of his has a TVR with a well tuned 7.0 with throttle bodies and it flies.
Loads of TVR's etc convert theirs to LS engines now, as do many other vehicles. They're just great all rounders
But they're great as even a mildly tuned one will probably make more power/torque at 2000rpm than a lot of standard cossie engines make anywhere in the rpm range.
#20
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (11)
If you're after a crate the LSX is the one to have or even the LSX-R
Give Craig at Dyno Torque a bell for any advice on LS's mate he'd done over 60 LS conversions now on seriously varyings cars; MX5, RX7, RX8, Z3, E30, E36, E46, 200SX, TVR's just a few off the top of my head.
Rich
Give Craig at Dyno Torque a bell for any advice on LS's mate he'd done over 60 LS conversions now on seriously varyings cars; MX5, RX7, RX8, Z3, E30, E36, E46, 200SX, TVR's just a few off the top of my head.
Rich
#22
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (11)
Check out an LSX in an AE86 (Driftworks Car who are next to Dyno Torque)
http://www.driftworks.com/blog/dw86-complete-build/
Rich
http://www.driftworks.com/blog/dw86-complete-build/
Rich
#24
Check out an LSX in an AE86 (Driftworks Car who are next to Dyno Torque)
http://www.driftworks.com/blog/dw86-complete-build/
Rich
http://www.driftworks.com/blog/dw86-complete-build/
Rich
hmmm very impressive rich .
many guys using these in hillclimbs mate?
#25
Sierra should be a doddle for an LS. More so if you use a 4x4 cradle which leaves tonnes of room for the sump. But if you're bulkhead goes back far enough, even the steel 2wd cradle might have plenty of room.
Link above didnt work for me ? This same one ?
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drif...3-project.html
LSX typically implies the iron block. Unless pushing well north of 4 figures power wise, I can see no sensible reason to buy an iron block. It's just pointless extra weight and expense.
Link above didnt work for me ? This same one ?
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drif...3-project.html
LSX typically implies the iron block. Unless pushing well north of 4 figures power wise, I can see no sensible reason to buy an iron block. It's just pointless extra weight and expense.
#26
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (11)
Sierra should be a doddle for an LS. More so if you use a 4x4 cradle which leaves tonnes of room for the sump. But if you're bulkhead goes back far enough, even the steel 2wd cradle might have plenty of room.
Link above didnt work for me ? This same one ?
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drif...3-project.html
LSX typically implies the iron block. Unless pushing well north of 4 figures power wise, I can see no sensible reason to buy an iron block. It's just pointless extra weight and expense.
Link above didnt work for me ? This same one ?
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drif...3-project.html
LSX typically implies the iron block. Unless pushing well north of 4 figures power wise, I can see no sensible reason to buy an iron block. It's just pointless extra weight and expense.
The LSX is very impressive thou if I had the cash that's one i'd have:
http://www.chevrolet.com/performance...lsx-454-r.html
Rich
Last edited by Sonic Boom; 12-10-2014 at 11:13 PM.
#27
yes the same one steve.
the crossmemeber stayed in the same place and the engine is/was mounted off the chasis rail .
i dont think their is much difference weight wise between the ls and the yb is there mate?
i think after christmas i may fly over to brum and get a run out in a dynotorque fettled car
the crossmemeber stayed in the same place and the engine is/was mounted off the chasis rail .
i dont think their is much difference weight wise between the ls and the yb is there mate?
i think after christmas i may fly over to brum and get a run out in a dynotorque fettled car
Last edited by james kiely; 12-10-2014 at 11:19 PM.
#28
AE86's or LS's mate?
Ye that's one Steve
The LSX is very impressive thou if I had the cash that's one i'd have:
http://www.chevrolet.com/performance...lsx-454-r.html
Rich
Ye that's one Steve
The LSX is very impressive thou if I had the cash that's one i'd have:
http://www.chevrolet.com/performance...lsx-454-r.html
Rich
110 octane race fuel for that beast
#29
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (11)
yes the same one steve.
the crossmemeber stayed in the same place and the engine is/was mounted off the chasis rail .
i dont think their is much difference weight wise between the ls and the yb is there mate?
i think after christmas i may fly over to brum and get a run out in a dynotorque fettled car
the crossmemeber stayed in the same place and the engine is/was mounted off the chasis rail .
i dont think their is much difference weight wise between the ls and the yb is there mate?
i think after christmas i may fly over to brum and get a run out in a dynotorque fettled car
Rich
Last edited by Sonic Boom; 12-10-2014 at 11:23 PM.
#31
Googling seems to say a fully dressed alloy block engine is around 190kgs
I'd presume flywheel/clutch is on top of that
I cant imagine a fully loaded cossie engine with iron block, turbo, manifold etc being that much lighter.
But it probably is lighter overall.
If it's good value performance you want, then they are a very good option, and you wouldnt be disappointed.
If you had a T5 already, you could get a bellhousing to retain this....obviously baring in mind though it may not survive long
As with all yank stuff though, whether TKO, T5, T56 etc all will be a simple bolt on job with the right parts.
Bellhousing bolt pattern is same as old SBC anyway apart from one bolt position if that's the platform you're moving away from.
I'd presume flywheel/clutch is on top of that
I cant imagine a fully loaded cossie engine with iron block, turbo, manifold etc being that much lighter.
But it probably is lighter overall.
If it's good value performance you want, then they are a very good option, and you wouldnt be disappointed.
If you had a T5 already, you could get a bellhousing to retain this....obviously baring in mind though it may not survive long
As with all yank stuff though, whether TKO, T5, T56 etc all will be a simple bolt on job with the right parts.
Bellhousing bolt pattern is same as old SBC anyway apart from one bolt position if that's the platform you're moving away from.
#32
AE86's or LS's mate?
Ye that's one Steve
The LSX is very impressive thou if I had the cash that's one i'd have:
http://www.chevrolet.com/performance...lsx-454-r.html
Rich
Ye that's one Steve
The LSX is very impressive thou if I had the cash that's one i'd have:
http://www.chevrolet.com/performance...lsx-454-r.html
Rich
Unless you were forced to by some specific racing rules.
You just reach a certain point with n/a tuning where ringing the life out of it just isnt worth it....and that's where boost takes over.
The iron block alone is some 40kgs heavier than the alloy blocks, and in a n/a application, the strength is not needed.
Even in boosted applications, the alloy blocks will easily handle 1000hp and then some. Although with alloy. I'd try and remain with the smaller engine sizes for thicker bore walls.
I've always had an alloy block, and I've n plans to change to iron.
With boost, the yanks are loving the 4.8 and 5.3 variants from trucks etc. Available in iron and alloy blocks, they buy them for sub $500, open up the ring gaps and boost the shit out of them. And they make insane power and remain reliable all things considered.
If they break it, they just go buy another lol
They're dirt cheap over there
If you wanted a 300-350bhp base motor, then the alloy 5.3's if you can get them and have it shipped here at the right price would be a good cheap starter.
But the LS3 crate motor above really isnt terrible value considering it's brand new
#33
i think i would rather deal with a uk company steve who know what they are doing especially when your depending on them for good solid advice .at least if their is a problem its only a few hours on a boat and rich has offered to let me rag his 3dr so its a win win situation
#34
cossie fan (unluckerly)
A very good company to deal with when it comes to v8 advise from some one who really really knows what he is talking about is Andy Robinson race cars. A very sound guy who will give good advise he also builds cars. Ive seen him put a few v8's in things now and a few fords last was a mk1 escort but he used a tvr v8.
#36
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (11)
i think i would rather deal with a uk company steve who know what they are doing especially when your depending on them for good solid advice .at least if their is a problem its only a few hours on a boat and rich has offered to let me rag his 3dr so its a win win situation
Rich