denniswynott

Hi All,

After a bit of advice - my Sapph has been doing this for a while now and it's really annoying so need to get it sorted !

It doesn't happen every time but becoming more frequent !

Upon starting the car from hot or cold, the revs shoot up to about 2500 and stay there. Turning the car off and then on again sometimes cures it, sometimes not - it can take 3 or 4 'on & offs' for it to go back to normal idle.

I have tried unplugging the white plug from the top of the idle control valve and instantly the revs drop and then when I plug it back in again, the revs stay as they should be.

So I assume it's either the white plug that's at fault of the bit it's plugged into ?

Any ideas which it is most likely to be ? Or anything I should do ? How easy are they to change ?

Thanks, DW.

The Crocodile Hunter

Sounds like you need to clean the idle valve as its sticking.

Common problem

cossynut2

They do wear out , has the car done a lot of miles? As suggested try cleaning it and if that doesnt fix it get a new one.

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

and check the wiring to the tps plus check the tps setting

denniswynott

What should I clean it with ? You mean take it off the car and immerse it in something perhaps ?

denniswynott

It's only done 60k but gets left sitting around most of the time these days !

The Crocodile Hunter

Yes take it off and you can either just try cleaning it with carb cleaner which might work? Or, when mine did it I had to undo the little nut holding the piston part in place and clean all the parts.

Just remember what order it all goes together, and to tighten the nut onto the thread the same amount that it was befote you removed it

gcfcos

Soak the insides with wd40 and then let that drain out and then clean all that out with carb or brake cleaner. A good little tap on the floor when it's filled with wd40 sometimes helps too

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like it's being told to do that, but it's worth cleaning it in the first instance.

Martin

denniswynott

Okay chaps, I've taken the two bolts out and removed the metal retaining ring........... but cannot get the valve out at all ! It's absolutely solid - no movement at all ! Any ideas ?

The Crocodile Hunter

Pull it harder!

If it still won't move, eat some weetabix then try again?

Harris.

Thin flat head screw driver should do it .

denniswynott

If all else fails ............. ask your dad ! He'd obviously had a Weetabix overload this morning and managed to do it almost straight away !!

So now it's off, I've removed the two rubber seals and have immersed in some petrol - only the end bit, not the plug end - there's nothing that moves though as far as we can see - so do we just leave it soaking ?

Harris.

Not for too long , i've just refitted mine and its still the same

Just leave it 10 mins to clean it off then dry off and re fit .

gcfcos

Fill it up with wd40, petrol won't do a great deal, let the wd40 soak in and then empty it out and then clean out with the petrol, or carb/brake cleaner

denniswynott

Ok, so gave it a 24hr soak, followed by a clean up and a thorough dry, refitted it and .................. it's made no difference !!!!!

So I guess it's knackered ! Will get a new one ordered tomorrow !

Harris.

GGR £99

denniswynott

Ebay £29.99

You get what you pay for though I guess !

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

So you checked the tps then ?

cossynut2

Get the new one fitted and you wont have any more problems.

The Crocodile Hunter

Have you actually checked that the piston part moves up and down against the spring? Just gently push it inwards with a suitable size socket to check. If it doesn't move its still stuck.

If it is knackered and you you're sure thats your problem do yourself a favour and spend £30 odd on a decent used one or just fork out the £99 on a proper one.

From what I can gather the cheap ones don't work properly and you'll just end up looking for a proper one

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

It isn't stuck, else it wouldn't be raising the speed!

The OE (Weber) is NLA, therefore you are buying aftermarket, something which I say from experience, do not work.

For this reason, I am looking out for a second hand genuine one, the trouble is even if you find one it could be in just as bad condition.

Martin

denniswynott

My bad, I didn't to be honest. Not sure how to do this really ? - seems lots of different ideas when searching for a 'how to'..

I couldn't get any part of it to move to be honest/ It was pretty black and manky although the petrol did bring it up nicely ! Shame it didn't seem to do much else !...

I've ordered an aftermarket one to be honest. For the sake of £30 I thought it's worth a go. Fingers crossed !

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

It's essentially a case of measuring the voltage, (pins 17 and 11) and making sure it's within a certain tolerance, 4x4 is 0-5V (increasing in proportion to throttle opening) 2WD is the inverse, in addition the latter has a switch integrated into the TPS, which yours doesn't. Anyway yours sounds fine!

You could of had mine, I would be interested to hear the outcome, for me, it was virtually as bad as it's replacement! (Despite fiddling around trying to 'adjust' it)

Martin

denniswynott

Well, time for an update.........

Fitted new Idle Control valve and all seemed good ........... for a while

Worked fine for a week or so but now seems to idle erratically at times - sometimes it's fine and others it seems to 'hunt' now !

Unplug it, plug it back in........ and it's fine !

Back to the drawing board methinks

The Crocodile Hunter

If thats your £30 one thats how they seem to work at best. As people have suggested above it was a waste of £30

What you need to do is try a proper one you know works.

Do you know anyone close by with a cossie?