Whilst I mention it, I have seen people change the belt, fire it up and rev the tits off it to basically hammer the valve head straight again. It can work but I personally would never try such cowboyery

And you know everything I have seen? I have seen it and seen the car run for a significant time after. It was done by a mechanic I knew years ago, I was sceptical and didn't believe it would work but it did.

Pug 405 1.6 petrol, snapped cam belt, valve clearance was out quite a bit. New belt fitted, started and it missed and tapped a lot. Revved hard for a minute the tapping gradually quietened down and the miss fire disappeared, valve clearance closed back up.

As said, I have seen the heads drop ff valves so would never attempt things, if the head breaks off you're in the st.

Believe me, people who think they know everything rarely do and are far more likely to know less as they shut their eyes to new knowledge.

I really wish you had contacted someone like Haywards after you had had the accident in the first place. You could have had a decent payout from the insurance instead of a dead engine and a scrapped Rex.

Basically because you had to that big impact to the rear of the car which meant you had to replace the exhaust due to the impact of the bike where do you think a good percentage of that impact engergy on the exhaust travelled up to with no real flexi on the exhaust system It all went straight upto the engine.

I had an accident someone went in to the rear of me at a set of lights and Haywards insisted on checking out their freshly rebuilt engine as any shockloading like that can damage the engine tips. Mine was all ok but the insurance company had a bit of a bottom clenching moment when i told them the engine was being inspected for damage with a possible rebuild cost of £2.5k....

such as shame as it sounds like a shockloading problem has occured and damage a seal or tip which has now fragged itself into an engine failure when you took it to 10/10ths.

Do people just post random bullst without thinking about the job in hand?
Hammering on a socket so near to the catalytic converter?

...Seriously?

If you use a hammer near the cat you may well shatter it internally. They are actually quite brittle inside. Don't use a hammer anywhere near a catalytic converter, OK?

Hi guys,

This will inevitably be a stupid question that will probably have the answer I expected, but I will ask anyway.

I have an E36 328 with some cheap n nasty XS power stainless steel exhaust manifolds. The 3-6 mani has completely cracked and sheared just before where it joins to the downpipe (so when the 3 go into 1) so it is essentially running with the exhaust ending at the end of the mani. Having noise tested it at 105db at part load, and having it apparently louder from the outside, and also as the lambda sensor is in the downpipe and thus no longer getting decent readings, I need a quick way to fix this before I can find the time to get under the car to remove the downpipe bolts so i can get the manifold welded.

I have some short rubber piping from an S13's standard intercooler piping. If I bunged this over and jubilee clipped it on either end so that it covered and connected the two bits, would the rubber likely burn/melt etc? Do i have a temporary quick fix option that doesnt involve removing the bottom bit of the manifold?