Not good for supercharged fiestas ST's :(
#1
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
Not good for supercharged fiestas ST's :(
ive had a few problems with my rotrex c30 supercharger so ive trawling the internet lately for advice.
but then checking www.rotrex.com i seen this important update-
March 2012
Due to lack of availability Rotrex has had to change the high speed spindle seal in the C8 and C15 families of superchargers from March 2012.
As a result of this new seal the supercharger must now be positioned above the canister and oil cooler in order to prevent any potential oil leakage from the supercharger. If the canister or oil cooler is placed too high - thereby allowing the supercharger to fill up with oil - the oil will leak out through the seal and into the compressor housing. For the avoidance of doubt the supercharger is designed to suck oil into the supercharger when running, and it will function perfectly well with the canister and oil cooler positioned below the supercharger.
In addition to being available the new seal has many other benefits including less wear and longer durability. The new requirement for the oil circuit layout has no effect on the functioning of the supercharger when running.
We foresee a similar change in the future for the C30 and C38 families of superchargers, however at this point no decision has been taken. Nevertheless it is always best to position the supercharger above the canister and oil cooler to avoid any risk of leakage in case of wear or damage to the high speed spindle seal.
this is the bit that concerns me as the supercharger is extremely low as it is but now i supposedly need to get the canister lower!
its just not possible :/
but then checking www.rotrex.com i seen this important update-
March 2012
Due to lack of availability Rotrex has had to change the high speed spindle seal in the C8 and C15 families of superchargers from March 2012.
As a result of this new seal the supercharger must now be positioned above the canister and oil cooler in order to prevent any potential oil leakage from the supercharger. If the canister or oil cooler is placed too high - thereby allowing the supercharger to fill up with oil - the oil will leak out through the seal and into the compressor housing. For the avoidance of doubt the supercharger is designed to suck oil into the supercharger when running, and it will function perfectly well with the canister and oil cooler positioned below the supercharger.
In addition to being available the new seal has many other benefits including less wear and longer durability. The new requirement for the oil circuit layout has no effect on the functioning of the supercharger when running.
We foresee a similar change in the future for the C30 and C38 families of superchargers, however at this point no decision has been taken. Nevertheless it is always best to position the supercharger above the canister and oil cooler to avoid any risk of leakage in case of wear or damage to the high speed spindle seal.
this is the bit that concerns me as the supercharger is extremely low as it is but now i supposedly need to get the canister lower!
its just not possible :/
#2
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thats ok with me as my charger is on my top of the enginer and the canister and cooler is low
albeit mine is on a pug
what charger you got?
mine runs a c30-94
what sort of power you running?
albeit mine is on a pug
what charger you got?
mine runs a c30-94
what sort of power you running?
#3
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
hi,
to be honest all i know is its a c30 charger.
it was advertised as 280bhp but it isnt that but luckily i had it cheap enough but now i have problems with the charger :/ it ran 212 a few days ago an the guy at gotboost said it sounds loud. soooooo
leaking from the impeller shaft (who'd of thought that would happen)
so i think with the force of the induction its managed to get some kind of ingress into the charger an damaged the bearings and put a very faint mark on the rollers.
hope fully soon be rebuilt an see what happens then.
to be honest all i know is its a c30 charger.
it was advertised as 280bhp but it isnt that but luckily i had it cheap enough but now i have problems with the charger :/ it ran 212 a few days ago an the guy at gotboost said it sounds loud. soooooo
leaking from the impeller shaft (who'd of thought that would happen)
so i think with the force of the induction its managed to get some kind of ingress into the charger an damaged the bearings and put a very faint mark on the rollers.
hope fully soon be rebuilt an see what happens then.
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#8
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
the most expensive part of the rebuild will be the oil! but i would rather try an rebuild it my self than shell out Ł1000+ on a new unit!
i have a few pics of the inside of the charger if anyone is interested?
#9
Regular Contributor
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#11
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
yeah no problem.
i cant say i can 100% help to fix his problem but i think its better to have a go than just leave it go to waste.
im actually making a little "how to rebuild" from my experience and all being how well it actually goes i will post it for other users to have some idea of what to expect an a heads up on them.
i cant say i can 100% help to fix his problem but i think its better to have a go than just leave it go to waste.
im actually making a little "how to rebuild" from my experience and all being how well it actually goes i will post it for other users to have some idea of what to expect an a heads up on them.
#13
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
#16
Advanced PassionFord User
so its not a geared system as such just runs on bearings...kind of the same as they use on seadoo's..and they dont last very long ...pretty much a turbo with a pulley instead of a exhaust housing..
#17
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
Hi guys.
Its a very simple setup to be honest
An yes there is slight wear to the shaft but a machine shop is confident it would polish out as there is no actually damage or roughness on the parts.
I'll keep you all updated as I go along.
It takes no special tools to dismantle the charger at all.
Once the "how to guide" is finished I'll post it up for others.
Its a very simple setup to be honest
An yes there is slight wear to the shaft but a machine shop is confident it would polish out as there is no actually damage or roughness on the parts.
I'll keep you all updated as I go along.
It takes no special tools to dismantle the charger at all.
Once the "how to guide" is finished I'll post it up for others.
#19
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
thanks mate.
ive been through the internet for any kind of guide an no luck whatsoever!
ive gathered some handy info which i'll also include.
i just think its ridiculous that you have to straight replace it for 1000+ quid
the only think i still think is ludicrous is the 100 quid a litre for oil!
i have a list of supposedly compatible options but need to research which will be the best for it.
if any one can help on this i'd be eternally greatfull!
thanks all
ive been through the internet for any kind of guide an no luck whatsoever!
ive gathered some handy info which i'll also include.
i just think its ridiculous that you have to straight replace it for 1000+ quid
the only think i still think is ludicrous is the 100 quid a litre for oil!
i have a list of supposedly compatible options but need to research which will be the best for it.
if any one can help on this i'd be eternally greatfull!
thanks all
#22
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
a completely different kettle of fish the rotrex is the size of an alternator maybe smaller
and has no internal gears
but the eaton is a screw type charger (could be wrong) an is a fair old size.
like spiky said chalk an cheese.
but would be alot easier to find info if it was :/
and has no internal gears
but the eaton is a screw type charger (could be wrong) an is a fair old size.
like spiky said chalk an cheese.
but would be alot easier to find info if it was :/
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