Transit Connect - TDDi vs TDCi Engines
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Transit Connect - TDDi vs TDCi Engines
Hi all,
I'm looking at vans at the moment and very much looking at bottom-end money for transit connects. So I'm stuck with choosing between high-mileage tdci and 'less' mileage tddi's.
Ideally I want a tdci for the extra ooph. However, the principal reason for getting a van is that with the mileage I do, at 50mpg the van would be paid for within a year in fuel savings vs my mondeo.
So the question is: for those of you with practical experience of these vans, what sort of mpg or miles to a tank do you manage and on which engine?
Thanks in advance!
Chris
I'm looking at vans at the moment and very much looking at bottom-end money for transit connects. So I'm stuck with choosing between high-mileage tdci and 'less' mileage tddi's.
Ideally I want a tdci for the extra ooph. However, the principal reason for getting a van is that with the mileage I do, at 50mpg the van would be paid for within a year in fuel savings vs my mondeo.
So the question is: for those of you with practical experience of these vans, what sort of mpg or miles to a tank do you manage and on which engine?
Thanks in advance!
Chris
#2
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when it comes to connects, buy the best you can because you will always kick yourself for not getting the "extra's"
been doing these vans for going on 6 years now and you really don't want the poverty spec ones
there are 3 different power levels, 75 brake, 90 brake and 115 brake and, to be honest, you don't really need to go above the 90 brake ones as they are quick enough
if they have the drivers pack they will come with electric windows and mirrors and hot screens and washer jets
there are also ones with reversing sensors and air con on the options list
57 onwards got the facelifts and went from the 1.5 din round radios to the full double din square radio set up
there were also different seating options so you get no adjustability other than seat back and forth and backrest lean to full lumbar support adjustment and back and forth and rear up/down and front up/down
nearly all have adjustable reach/rake steering but some don't
whatever you go and see, they kill cv joints and tyres, none of our vans have had anything more than 20k out of a set of tyres and some of them go through driveshafts in 20k too
there was a recall on the clutches as the pedals dropped overnight, nothing that pulling the pedal up again won't fix but you can kill clutches in just a few k if you don't find the problem
make sure it's got a full tool kit as well, normally stored behind the drivers seat as this will have the towing eye and jack and stuff which you won't be able to get the spare wheel out of without
some also came with a seperate fob for the remote locking and some are on the key
they don't like petrol though so make sure it's all good
also see if it's got rubber of canvas intercooler pipes as the canvas ones were the recalled ones as the rubber ones split fairly easily
and if the auto tensioner has gone kaput it's an engine out job to replace
at about 100k they may also need steering racks as just lately several of ours have gone down with dodgy racks and it's a 3 week wait to get them replaced
we've had vans from new and one of ours currently has 185k on it and it's still going strong so any questions in particular just ask
been doing these vans for going on 6 years now and you really don't want the poverty spec ones
there are 3 different power levels, 75 brake, 90 brake and 115 brake and, to be honest, you don't really need to go above the 90 brake ones as they are quick enough
if they have the drivers pack they will come with electric windows and mirrors and hot screens and washer jets
there are also ones with reversing sensors and air con on the options list
57 onwards got the facelifts and went from the 1.5 din round radios to the full double din square radio set up
there were also different seating options so you get no adjustability other than seat back and forth and backrest lean to full lumbar support adjustment and back and forth and rear up/down and front up/down
nearly all have adjustable reach/rake steering but some don't
whatever you go and see, they kill cv joints and tyres, none of our vans have had anything more than 20k out of a set of tyres and some of them go through driveshafts in 20k too
there was a recall on the clutches as the pedals dropped overnight, nothing that pulling the pedal up again won't fix but you can kill clutches in just a few k if you don't find the problem
make sure it's got a full tool kit as well, normally stored behind the drivers seat as this will have the towing eye and jack and stuff which you won't be able to get the spare wheel out of without
some also came with a seperate fob for the remote locking and some are on the key
they don't like petrol though so make sure it's all good
also see if it's got rubber of canvas intercooler pipes as the canvas ones were the recalled ones as the rubber ones split fairly easily
and if the auto tensioner has gone kaput it's an engine out job to replace
at about 100k they may also need steering racks as just lately several of ours have gone down with dodgy racks and it's a 3 week wait to get them replaced
we've had vans from new and one of ours currently has 185k on it and it's still going strong so any questions in particular just ask
#3
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I have a 75PS TDDi 02 LWB Connect, and I think it returns around 37mpg, but it is always full of stuff, so heavy.
I'm told that the higher powered ones return a better mpg.
Both TDDi and TDCi have the same higher power versions available, 90 and 115 PS.
I do not think there is much between them in regards reliability etc.
DOJJ posted same time
'Tool' kit on mine is stored inside the rear n/s plastic panel near the rear door.
Auto tensioner? the one on the cam belt? I did mine last month, and its not an engine out job on the TDDi.
I'm told that the higher powered ones return a better mpg.
Both TDDi and TDCi have the same higher power versions available, 90 and 115 PS.
I do not think there is much between them in regards reliability etc.
DOJJ posted same time
'Tool' kit on mine is stored inside the rear n/s plastic panel near the rear door.
Auto tensioner? the one on the cam belt? I did mine last month, and its not an engine out job on the TDDi.
Last edited by Icurus; 05-06-2011 at 10:40 PM.
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Thanks for the replies guys - Dojj that's the longest post you've ever written which actually makes sense thank you
Are you sure the tddi comes in 90 and 115?? From what I read the tddi is 75ps only (same as intercooled escort engine iirc?), and the tdci is 90 or 115 (same as focus mk1 tdci options iirc?) I presume the easiest way to tell between tddi tdci regardless of a power output sticker would be to look for the fuel rail?
What's that common problem with the alt light? Something to do with fan wiring was it? Anything like bushes that wear out quickly?
Thanks!,
Chris
Are you sure the tddi comes in 90 and 115?? From what I read the tddi is 75ps only (same as intercooled escort engine iirc?), and the tdci is 90 or 115 (same as focus mk1 tdci options iirc?) I presume the easiest way to tell between tddi tdci regardless of a power output sticker would be to look for the fuel rail?
What's that common problem with the alt light? Something to do with fan wiring was it? Anything like bushes that wear out quickly?
Thanks!,
Chris
#6
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I have a 75PS TDDi 02 LWB Connect, and I think it returns around 37mpg, but it is always full of stuff, so heavy.
I'm told that the higher powered ones return a better mpg.
Both TDDi and TDCi have the same higher power versions available, 90 and 115 PS.
I do not think there is much between them in regards reliability etc.
DOJJ posted same time
'Tool' kit on mine is stored inside the rear n/s plastic panel near the rear door.
Auto tensioner? the one on the cam belt? I did mine last month, and its not an engine out job on the TDDi.
I'm told that the higher powered ones return a better mpg.
Both TDDi and TDCi have the same higher power versions available, 90 and 115 PS.
I do not think there is much between them in regards reliability etc.
DOJJ posted same time
'Tool' kit on mine is stored inside the rear n/s plastic panel near the rear door.
Auto tensioner? the one on the cam belt? I did mine last month, and its not an engine out job on the TDDi.
i'd also agree that their economy isn't as good as you would think, our full size transits get better economy than the connects do, we are lucky to get 300 miles to a tank
#7
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not had any issues with the alt lights, but apparently the voltage regulators are now inbuilt into the ecu rather than on the backs of the alternators, but these issues on the mk1 focus were normally down to a wiring issue in the drivers wing
as for bushes and stuff, not had any issues with anything failing like that on any of our vans, as mentioned before, only driveshafts and tyres, and lately, steering racks, as common as we've had one break this morning
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#8
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Dojj if your on about the aux belt tensioner you dont need to take the engine out. Ive done a few of these now. You remove the pas pump remove the nuts and studs that hold the tensioner on and it comes out.
#9
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The connects we have at work are slow as fook. The tdci ones are a bit quicker the vauxhall combo 1.3 shity diesels are a lot quicker. I would rather have the connect any day. There a better built van.
#11
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35 max if you are very lucky.
One of my work collegues had a TDDI connect a few years ago, 52 plate?, 30mpg if he was lucky verses my Pug Partner @ 43mpg.
Front tyres went at 20k verses my Partner at 40k
He's been out of Connects till recently and now has an 11 plate Tdci and gets 34mpg.
My 2.2 Tdci SWB Transit gets 34mpg carrying more weight over the same journeys.
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