Domestic Sound Proofing
#1
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Domestic Sound Proofing
Has anyone used sound proofing on walls in their house?
I've just spent a fortune gutting the main bedroom in our new house and I can hear the old chap next door snoring! (or masturbating )
Don't really want to pull a new wall back down! is there anything I can stick on it and re-skim over!?
Needs to be thin as i've also just had a very expensive radiator plumbed in front of said wall
cost not an option, I need sleep!
I've just spent a fortune gutting the main bedroom in our new house and I can hear the old chap next door snoring! (or masturbating )
Don't really want to pull a new wall back down! is there anything I can stick on it and re-skim over!?
Needs to be thin as i've also just had a very expensive radiator plumbed in front of said wall
cost not an option, I need sleep!
#4
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It's in a finished state, boarded, plastered and painted
Pic here with rad in front (not painted in this one)
The rad really fucks this operation up, as it was a proper pain to get it plumbed in and set up how it is!
Pic here with rad in front (not painted in this one)
The rad really fucks this operation up, as it was a proper pain to get it plumbed in and set up how it is!
#6
Resident Wrestling Legend
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can't see the pic at work mate so can't really offer any more suggestions
i think cement board gives you better sound proofing that plaster board, and it won't need to be as thick either and you get get layers on the back to stop it from letting sound though
i think cement board gives you better sound proofing that plaster board, and it won't need to be as thick either and you get get layers on the back to stop it from letting sound though
#7
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Your fucked m8,
I have sound deadened the party wall at mine and can still hear next door, it's a lot better but not gone.
I built a stud wall infront of the brick party wall.
I used 2" timber fixed to the wall, 50mm noise insulation quilt, then 2 layers of 15mm sound block plasterboard and skim.
I found out afterwards I should have built the wall free standing and used resilliant bars on the studs.
But you won't b able to get a good result without moving the rad and losing 3" off the wall.
You can buy stuff to dot n dab on but you need a minimum of 60mm clearance
I have sound deadened the party wall at mine and can still hear next door, it's a lot better but not gone.
I built a stud wall infront of the brick party wall.
I used 2" timber fixed to the wall, 50mm noise insulation quilt, then 2 layers of 15mm sound block plasterboard and skim.
I found out afterwards I should have built the wall free standing and used resilliant bars on the studs.
But you won't b able to get a good result without moving the rad and losing 3" off the wall.
You can buy stuff to dot n dab on but you need a minimum of 60mm clearance
Last edited by stu21t; 13-04-2010 at 11:28 AM.
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#8
just finding my feet
how old is old,,,,, could you not just,,,,, well wait for something to happen to him,,,,, winter was dangerous last year with all the ice
or cant you change the master bedroom as the sound deadening wont be perfect tbh
or cant you change the master bedroom as the sound deadening wont be perfect tbh
#9
Professional Waffler
Cant you stick loads of old egg boxes on the wall?
Best form of defence is attack, Dave. if you start to snor louder than him then you wont hear him
Best form of defence is attack, Dave. if you start to snor louder than him then you wont hear him
Last edited by Lee Reynolds; 13-04-2010 at 05:59 PM.
#10
Professional Waffler
Your fucked m8,
I have sound deadened the party wall at mine and can still hear next door, it's a lot better but not gone.
I built a stud wall infront of the brick party wall.
I used 2" timber fixed to the wall, 50mm noise insulation quilt, then 2 layers of 15mm sound block plasterboard and skim.
I found out afterwards I should have built the wall free standing and used resilliant bars on the studs.
But you won't b able to get a good result without moving the rad and losing 3" off the wall.
You can buy stuff to dot n dab on but you need a minimum of 60mm clearance
I have sound deadened the party wall at mine and can still hear next door, it's a lot better but not gone.
I built a stud wall infront of the brick party wall.
I used 2" timber fixed to the wall, 50mm noise insulation quilt, then 2 layers of 15mm sound block plasterboard and skim.
I found out afterwards I should have built the wall free standing and used resilliant bars on the studs.
But you won't b able to get a good result without moving the rad and losing 3" off the wall.
You can buy stuff to dot n dab on but you need a minimum of 60mm clearance
#11
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I have the same problem at my house where my extension is at the side of next door's bathroom - can hear the water hitting the bottom of their bath from the shower and oh boy are they noisy in a morning!
#15
I have seen something on the web but i cant find it anywhere, but it is a sound proofing wall paper. No idea on prices or where to get it from but i know it does exist!
Maybe someone else will know a bit more about it?
Can you not have the rad moved forwards 3" and put up a stud wall and sound proof it properly? I wouldnt bother with dot and dabbing with soundbloc boards, i sound coated a whole party wall and boarded with 15mm soundbloc boards, made fuck all difference!
Gavin.
Maybe someone else will know a bit more about it?
Can you not have the rad moved forwards 3" and put up a stud wall and sound proof it properly? I wouldnt bother with dot and dabbing with soundbloc boards, i sound coated a whole party wall and boarded with 15mm soundbloc boards, made fuck all difference!
Gavin.
#16
Baby Cheesus
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just play loud music so the old fart cant get to sleep
you might have a problem there too tho
the deaf old bastard next door to us constantly has classical music blaring out all day and night. at least its not drum and bass i suppose, but it still gets very annoying at times!
you might have a problem there too tho
the deaf old bastard next door to us constantly has classical music blaring out all day and night. at least its not drum and bass i suppose, but it still gets very annoying at times!
#18
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Wall will come down, pack out voids between studs with dense fibre matting, sound proof coating and 2 layers of 15mm soundbloc
Possibly, resillient bars.. undecided yet
#19
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Dave, seriously now. You need to be rational about this, you won't solve it, well, not without removing that rad. I'm 99% sure of that. It's one of those things where you'll end up going round and round in circles trying to find a solution and there isn't one. I've been there myself and just wished I'd done it the obvious way.
I'm afraid to say, the only way you'll effectively deaden the sound is to take the rad off, batten the wall, place some 50mm (approx) high density acoustic insulation in there and board over it.
I know you'll think I'm a cunt for saying it, but I really think I'm right here. Just bite the proverbial bullet.
Edit - Just read your post above, same effect. That'll work.
I'm afraid to say, the only way you'll effectively deaden the sound is to take the rad off, batten the wall, place some 50mm (approx) high density acoustic insulation in there and board over it.
I know you'll think I'm a cunt for saying it, but I really think I'm right here. Just bite the proverbial bullet.
Edit - Just read your post above, same effect. That'll work.
Last edited by Christian and Beccy; 14-04-2010 at 08:12 AM.
#20
Testing the future
you need to understand that no matter how thick you make the wall, unless you decouple it, the sound vibration will continue to travel through
it's a specialist job to do it properly
it's a specialist job to do it properly
#21
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Right, this is how im going to do it.
Wall off
Pack out voids between studs with 50mm 140KG dense fibre matting
Fit resillient bars across studs to decouple (as per Nick says)
Lay 1 layer of 12.5mm Fermacell (better than soundbloc pb, and more expensive!)
Apply 2.5mm specialist soundproof membrane (how expensive!)
Lay a second layer of 12.5mm Fermacell
Job done!
If I hear anything through that, he can wank me off with his arse!
Wall off
Pack out voids between studs with 50mm 140KG dense fibre matting
Fit resillient bars across studs to decouple (as per Nick says)
Lay 1 layer of 12.5mm Fermacell (better than soundbloc pb, and more expensive!)
Apply 2.5mm specialist soundproof membrane (how expensive!)
Lay a second layer of 12.5mm Fermacell
Job done!
If I hear anything through that, he can wank me off with his arse!
#22
PassionFord Post Troll
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As its an old house most likely the floor beams are tied into the party wall and most of the sounds will be travelling through these and up out of your exposed floorboards, just as much as straight through the party wall itself.
Lift the boards and pack the void between the beams with dense rockwool, and fitting underlay and carpet will also help, not as trendy as exposed boards but I doubt you will be bothered at 3 in the morning.
The other thing you can do is lift the boards and add strips of rubber to the joists and then relay the boards on top. Another old trick is a layer of dry sand onto the plaster under the boards to dampen the vibrations.
Lift the boards and pack the void between the beams with dense rockwool, and fitting underlay and carpet will also help, not as trendy as exposed boards but I doubt you will be bothered at 3 in the morning.
The other thing you can do is lift the boards and add strips of rubber to the joists and then relay the boards on top. Another old trick is a layer of dry sand onto the plaster under the boards to dampen the vibrations.
#24
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Fudge, probably! too late though as I've just bought all the materials.
Why cant two swedish lesbians live next door... wall down, pin hole camera. Wall back up. Job done!
Why cant two swedish lesbians live next door... wall down, pin hole camera. Wall back up. Job done!
#27
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I understand your pain, we have new neighbours with a dog and the argue EVERY night and then make up until the early hours of the morning - thank god they only rent!!!!
#30
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Call me i am an acoustic specialist working and sell and design things like this everyday and have some thin solutions. Ian 07836267144
The most important thing to know what the existing wall is. Is it brickwork or blockwork and is it skimmed.
Basically you need to add mass and disconnect the new wall from old which can be done with an independant wall or by using res bars. Then you need some mass either soundbloc plasterboard or we do a product that filled with silica sand call easypanel but you need to go over this with plasterboard pref soundbloc. Dont have to use res bars but you gain 5/7db which dont sound alot excuse the pun but sound works in a lothartyhmic scale so the difference between 40db reduction and 45/47 is vast
Cheers
Ian
The most important thing to know what the existing wall is. Is it brickwork or blockwork and is it skimmed.
Basically you need to add mass and disconnect the new wall from old which can be done with an independant wall or by using res bars. Then you need some mass either soundbloc plasterboard or we do a product that filled with silica sand call easypanel but you need to go over this with plasterboard pref soundbloc. Dont have to use res bars but you gain 5/7db which dont sound alot excuse the pun but sound works in a lothartyhmic scale so the difference between 40db reduction and 45/47 is vast
Cheers
Ian
#31
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Call me i am an acoustic specialist working and sell and design things like this everyday and have some thin solutions. Ian 07836267144
The most important thing to know what the existing wall is. Is it brickwork or blockwork and is it skimmed.
Basically you need to add mass and disconnect the new wall from old which can be done with an independant wall or by using res bars. Then you need some mass either soundbloc plasterboard or we do a product that filled with silica sand call easypanel but you need to go over this with plasterboard pref soundbloc. Dont have to use res bars but you gain 5/7db which dont sound alot excuse the pun but sound works in a lothartyhmic scale so the difference between 40db reduction and 45/47 is vast
Cheers
Ian
The most important thing to know what the existing wall is. Is it brickwork or blockwork and is it skimmed.
Basically you need to add mass and disconnect the new wall from old which can be done with an independant wall or by using res bars. Then you need some mass either soundbloc plasterboard or we do a product that filled with silica sand call easypanel but you need to go over this with plasterboard pref soundbloc. Dont have to use res bars but you gain 5/7db which dont sound alot excuse the pun but sound works in a lothartyhmic scale so the difference between 40db reduction and 45/47 is vast
Cheers
Ian
partition wall, studs, lath & plaster and plasterboard
I'm doing the following
140kg dense fibre matting between studs
res bars
fermacel 12.5 board
T50 soundproof matting
more fermacell 12.5 board
that should do it no?
#34
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Update on this for anyone remotely interested.... I did the work a few weeks ago and sound is reduced significantly.. still can hear the deep bass of his snoring & coughs slightly and but much better than before.
I think the exposed polished / stripped floorboards dont help matters
here are a few pics
Wall being taken down
Bare wall. The laths you see are his bedroom wall!
Dense fibre matting going in, ŁŁŁŁ and no give/play so has to be cut to perfection
Matting all in and resilient bars fitted
First layer of fermacel board (heavy shit!)
First layer on and sealed at edges. Soundbloc matting being glued on to first layer and then second layer of fermacell being added
Lot of fucking work for some old guys snoring eh!
I think the exposed polished / stripped floorboards dont help matters
here are a few pics
Wall being taken down
Bare wall. The laths you see are his bedroom wall!
Dense fibre matting going in, ŁŁŁŁ and no give/play so has to be cut to perfection
Matting all in and resilient bars fitted
First layer of fermacel board (heavy shit!)
First layer on and sealed at edges. Soundbloc matting being glued on to first layer and then second layer of fermacell being added
Lot of fucking work for some old guys snoring eh!
#35
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Good job nicely done.
I wish I'd looked into it more when I did mine.
Might have cost a few extra ŁŁŁ but would have been a better job and not cost me any more work or space.
I wish I'd looked into it more when I did mine.
Might have cost a few extra ŁŁŁ but would have been a better job and not cost me any more work or space.
#36
Legend
Fucking awesome! Now you can have really angry, violent sex and no-one will ever know [unless he/she has become resilient to the rohipnol and wakes up during, I've heard it happens with sustained useage].
When you exposed the back of the neighbours wall, were you tempted to install a small camera?
When you exposed the back of the neighbours wall, were you tempted to install a small camera?
Last edited by Paddy; 09-06-2010 at 12:10 PM.
#39
PassionFord Post Whore!!
If your gunna wish for something do it properly.
There you go m8, all fixed. Lol
but if that was the case you'd just knock the wall down lol
There you go m8, all fixed. Lol
but if that was the case you'd just knock the wall down lol
Last edited by stu21t; 09-06-2010 at 01:52 PM.