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#1 | ||||
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PassionFord Regular
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"you were only supposed to blow the bloody doors off" |
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#2 |
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10K+ Poster!!
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You can try disconnecting the negative lead off the battery for about half an hour that should reset the engine warning light. Then see if it comes back.
TC light could maybe be rust build up on one of the wheel sensors?
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#3 |
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PassionFord Post Whore!!
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Disconnect battery negative for 10 minutes and then reconnect this will clear any fault codes the ECU has stored. If not it could be the cold causing problems, make sure all sensor connections are good. The ECU may have been damaged as a result of jump starting there is a right way and a wrong way to jump start.
Martin |
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#4 |
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PassionFord Regular
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Whats the right way and the wrong way mate?? The breakdown guy left the leads on my battery for 5-10 mins before turning the car over, was this right??
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"you were only supposed to blow the bloody doors off" |
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#5 |
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10K+ Poster!!
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I imagine the RAC guy knew what he was doing, I hope so anyway!
Disconnect the battery for a while and go from there
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#6 |
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BANNED
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might just need to get it plugged in to a scanner and clear all codes, cars these days are funny with things like that, 307s fuck me even worse wont start no windows etc, bsi needs resetting right pain in arse
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#7 |
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PassionFord Post Whore!!
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When jump starting with delicate components such as ECU'S it is possible to damage them, with a high charging rate, once the car is running normally before disconnecting the two it's good to place a load on the battery such as a heater motor etc so you don't get a power spike. Doubt it is this just one posibility, as I said previously disconnect battery first this will clear the "alive memory" then it it comes on again it must be something registering a fault.
Martin |
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#8 |
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BANNED
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It's nothing to do with the charging rate, it is the sudden spike, the better jumps leads have a surge protector between the two cars, this allows a fe seconds to slowly build the current up to the full amount.
Quite right to leave on for a 5-10 mins first. Older cars could weld themselves together when using jump leads in the days of chrome bumpers, if the bumpers were touching and the earth lead wasn't that great it would seek earth through the cars body/bumpers, heard of it happening but never seen it myself. A 4 mile run isn't going to do a thing to a fully flat battery, even more so in a modern car, as the ecu when controlling the charge rate charges a LOT slower than the older systems. Just put a charger on the battery, leave connected, unless your charger is very old, it will have spike protection, this protects in this instance from AC spikes, as it can happen. In case you leave it regularly for long periods, a AGM battery would be a lot better bet for for your use, as the self discharge rate is so much lower on these, they also cope with cold a lot better, but of course cost more. tabetha Last edited by tabetha; 13-01-2010 at 10:19 AM. |
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#9 |
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PassionFord Post Whore!!
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buzzin i had this problem just took the negative off or a few seconds now my management light has gone off and my traction control switch works again you gotta love passionford
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#10 |
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PassionFord Post Whore!!
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Do a search on lexusownersclub and youll find loads of info on this mate, as it happens quite often with flat batteries and jump starping.
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#11 |
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PassionFord Post Whore!!
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MY ONLY OTHER ISSUE IS THE FUCKING CD PLAYER WHICH IS CURRENTLY ON MY LIVING ROOM FLOOR IN PIECES
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#12 |
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PassionFord Post Whore!!
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wooops
caps lock rape
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