oilman

Anyone in the need for any oil advice or recommendations?

We've now got our End Of Season Sale running, so it's a good time to pay us a visit!

cheers

oilman

bluntys1rsturbo

what oil would you suggest for a r5 gt turbo running over 230bhp 23psi boost, iv been using 10/40 semi and changing every 1-2k (dont ask)

i have also had 10/60 fully in there when i first had the car

oilman

Any idea how hot the oil is getting?

Cheers

Tim

bluntys1rsturbo

that is something ill have to report on mate as the car has only been used in short bursts

Ade500

iTrader: (1)

I will be buying on Monday running in oil millers cro 10w 40 if you have it ? and some Titan race pro s 10w 60 and a load of filters.

oilman

Yes, we've got that all in at the moment.

oilman

If you're not sure, I'd go for a 10w-50 to be safe (unless the car has been recently rebuilt or has a big oil cooler)

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx

They are really good oils, absolute top of the range ones, but the Millers CFS Nanodrive looks like it could be the best one (it's too new to say for sure), so go with any brand preference you have.

Cheers

Tim

Ade500

iTrader: (1)

Sweet mate

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

how about a forged, cammed gt30 zetec turbo for spirited road and occasional track use.
oil temp doesn't seem to go over 110 degrees Celsius.
i did have a look at the millers nano as i'm a bit of a millers fan for no particular reason, not quite ready for a change, only done 1k since last change, but like to take good care of it.

mark r

yb running approx 380 ish with oil rad 9 row ,been using 5-50 mobil 1 but pressure drop quick when worm temps 100-110 on track.what would you recomend.


cheers mark

oilman

I would use a 5w-40 synthetic..

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XFS, Fuchs GT1 XTL/Supersyn, Shell Helix and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives.

Cheers

Tim

oilman

Hi Mark

A 10w-50 is ideal for your car and these are the ones that we stock.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx

The Nanodrive CFS is, on paper, the best oil available, but the Pro S and CFS are both really good oils, so all are good choices for your car.

Cheers

Tim

oilman

Hi folks,

With winter here and plenty of cold starts, perhaps it's time to consider changing the oil that you use in your car.

Does your antifreeze need changing?
Is your gearshift okay when cold?
Do you need something to protect your car from the weather?

Let us know if you need any advice, we are here to help. You can call us on 01209 202944, email us at sales@opieoils.co.uk, or just ask here.

Cheers

oilman

bluntys1rsturbo

i have noticed that when cold my escort van is a bit hard get into gear for a minute or 2, would you reckon i need change gearbox oil?

Archer14

Ok I have a Honda Civic type-r. its a 2006 model. I am changing the oil after 5000 km. Now i am using Havoline. Have you any other good suggestion or this is ok? If there is some better oil then please recommend me. Thnx

oilman

Could be a good idea. Any idea when the oil was last done and which oil was used?

Cheers

Tim

bluntys1rsturbo

couldnt tell you as i bought the van 2 years ago and its not been done in that time

oilman

Usually I recommend a 5w-40 for the CTR as they can burn a lot of oil if you use the standard 0w-30, but if it gets really cold where you live, a 0w-40 might be the best option. Ideally you want an ester based one, but failing that, a decent synthetic.

Cheers

Tim

oilman

It's likely that changing the oil might help, the oil has probably worn out and needs replacing.

You need an MTF for the gearbox and I would go with the Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF or Fuchs Sintofluid. The Millers EP 75w-80, Gulf Gear TX and Motul Motylgear are good cheaper alternatives.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx

Cheers

Tim

H15 FSC

hi, thinking of changing the auto gear box oil, on my 06 3.0d sport X5. what is the right oil for this and how much is needed,
cheers

oilman

Hi

This one is ideal

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68895-fu...-mb-23614.aspx

from empty, it takes 10.1L, but you'll probably only be able to get about half the oil out.

Cheers

Tim

Rob Virgo

iTrader: (6)

Hi opine,

Reporting a forum question here ,hope you can advise on suitable running in oil spec(mineral) and t5 gearbox oil for a track cos,about 300brakeish


Have an eng that ill be starting soon after being laid up for a few years,indoors and oil down bores so turns over nicely.
Afaik it had a freshen up,rings maybe but as its a trackcar can run in normally.cant do road mileage pre change to synth so how do I do 1000 miles....lol

What's the current thinkin on oils, presume still std chep mineral oil for a few hundred miles.......any tech articles and how do I replicate road mileage. .???

oilman

Yes, a mineral oil for the first few hundred, something like the Millers CRO.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-mi...ng-in-oil.aspx

A 10w-50 is ideal for when it's run in.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx

The Nanodrive CFS is, on paper, the best oil available, but the Pro S and CFS are both really good oils, so all are good choices for your car.

Cheers

Tim

Rob Virgo

iTrader: (6)

Cheers Tim

What about gearbox and diff...

oilman

You need an MTF for the gearbox and I would go with the Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF or Fuchs Sintofluid.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx

A 75w-90 is ideal for the diff

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-...ion-fluid.aspx

The Fuchs Syn 5, Motul Gear 300LS, Millers CRX NT LS, Gulf Competition LS and Redline GL5 are the best choices.

Cheers

Tim

Cossiemainful

iTrader: (1)

Hi oilman.

Heard that ester oils (Silkolene etc.) are pure racing oils and not so good for daily driven cars (also in winter), cause they have bad dirty capacity to keep the engine clean and bad cold features (like I said only a racing oil). Don't know about the seals protection. The only good thing is the lubrication of the engine but thats all. A good Mobil 1 5W-50 will do the job on any power. If you had temp problems I would install an oilcooler before changing to "worse" oil like 10W-60 or 15W-50.

oilman

Whoever told you that stuff about oil really has no idea what they are talking about.

Ester based oils offer better cold start protection than a 'normal' oil of the same viscosity as the esters cling to metal surfaces so that when you start the engine, there is already oil in place. That means there is instant protection, rather than waiting for the oil to flow around when the oil is cold and thick.

Generally 'race oil' means very little at all. If you're using a 15w-50, then the cold start protection will be reduced as the oil is thick when cold, but if it's an ester oil, it will have the benefits I mentioned above. A few race oils are 0w-20, so very very thin and ester based, you won't find an oil that gives better cold start protection.

Mobil 5w-50 was an okay oil, but it has been discontinued. It was not as good as the ester based oils - if you've heard the feedback we've had from people that have gone from oils like the Mobil to ester based ones, you wouldn't be questioning esters.

I'm really not sure why you'd use a 5w-50, but then fit an oil cooler for 10w-60 or 15w-50. That is just going to make the oil far thicker than needed, reducing the flow rate, raising engine temperature and increasing wear.

Cheers

Tim

mr west

iTrader: (1)

hi mate
hope you can help on what oil type and brand for ...

Make-ford
Model-s2 rst
Year-88
Engine size and type- 2.0l zvh
Type of use (track/road etc)-fast road
Modifications that affect stock BHP.- acralite pistons,high lift cam. should be somewhere around 220bhp

oilman

Any idea how hot the oil is getting when driven hard?

Cheers

Tim

mr west

iTrader: (1)

unfortuneatly my oil temp sensor is up the creek but it was running about 80-110
it has comma 10w40 at the min but it seems to be low on pressure at idle when hot. 20psi and sometimes under

oilman

Is that a 10w-40 semi? Any idea how long it's been in there for?

Cheers

Tim

mr west

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it is semi, its only been in for less than a 1000 miles

Fezman1

iTrader: (1)

Hi there,
looking for advice on gearbox oil
for my gf's 2005 bmw mini cooper 1.6 with getrag 5sp box.
MTF-LT-3 is the manufacturer grade.

Also good engine oil for it, not driven hard, done 75k.

CheeRS Fraser

Cossiemainful

iTrader: (1)

I meant before I'd use thicker oil I would install an oil cooler and keep the same oil (only with thermostat) not that I would use an oil cooler with 10W-60 oil.
And the ester oils don't keep the engine as clean as other oils that isn't a rumour I guess.

Thanks so far.

oilman

It could be that as it's a semi, it's not as stable as a synthetic, so it's losing pressure when hot. I'd go for either a good synthetic 10w-40 or a 10w-50.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-657-10w-40.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx

The best ones are the Gulf Competition, Motul 300V, Redline and Millers CFS.

Cheers

Tim

oilman

Hi Fraser

You need an MTF for the gearbox and I would go with the Redline MTL, Amsoil MTF or Fuchs Sintofluid.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-670-75w-80-75w-85-mtfs.aspx

You need an oil that meets the BMW LL01 or LL04 specification for the engine

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-685-bmw-longlife-01.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-686-bmw-longlife-04.aspx

The oils are all good oils as they need to be to meet the BMW specification, so take your pick based on any price/brand preference you have, although if it burns at lot of oil, go for one of the 5w-40s.

Cheers

Tim

oilman

Ah, sorry, I misunderstood. Yes, you're right, an oil cooler is a better option than a thicker oil.

I should have said, ester oils have plenty of detergents to keep the engine clean. Also, they are more stable than many others, so less likely to break down and leave deposits.

Cheers

Tim

mr west

iTrader: (1)

Cool thanks tim

Cossiemainful

iTrader: (1)

>> http://www.eneos.us/product/2

ENEOS 0W-50 (ester / pao combi)

• No. 1 in Japan
• Quality grade: API SM
• VI: 192
• HTHS: 4.2 (on request by the owner, not sure, it was replied on a forum, can't find the hths on the datasheet)

The shear stability is enough cause most cars don't revving that high that a high HTHS value is necessary. High shear stability is important on motorcycles which the oil is needed for the engine and the transmission. Most of us driving cars not motorcycles.

All in all for such a wide visco range great numbers. Sure it is difficult to create such an oil like this.

Will test it on my daily driven power cossie (hope for hard winter and hard summer) if I found a seller who send it to europe.

Don't find the thread with the oil analysis but it says: no metal flakes after some hard testing after dyno and racing with high performance cars like Skylines, Nissans revving until 10 000 RPM etc.

We have to wait for some more tests but an API SM oil couldn't be so wrong.

slammedorion

Oilman, What would you recommend for MY07 Vectra Cdti 120bhp 8v with 115K on the clock.

I purchased the car Oct 2012 needing lots of little jobs sorting and was behind/ due servicing... since owning it I've dropped the oil 3 times and put some half decent stuff from our local motor factors to clean it out ( not a fan of engine flush ), I now wanna look at dropping it every 6 months. It does alot of its mileage around town.
Would imagine at most it'll be doing 5-6K per year.