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YB Timing Marks

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Old 25-10-2016, 06:19 AM
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Bogyoch
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Default YB Timing Marks

Hello All.

I know this topic has been covered many times before, but I would like to be reassured that I have set the timing marks correctly on my engine, having changed the cam belt.

The engine is from my Westfield and I have no history on it. It had a Gates belt fitted, and I have fitted a new one of these. Generally it has run very well during the year or so of ownership. When I first timed up the marks prior to removing the old belt, I noticed that the pointer on the auxiliary shaft was aiming at the left hand side of the half moon. This would suggest that the rotor arm would have been pointing incorrectly within the distributor. I am surprised the car ran as well as it did!

I have timed everything as I think it should be, but would highlight that the inlet cam pointer does seem to be slightly off. If I change a tooth, the pointer is much worse off, so I think this is correct. I am assuming that machining tolerances are coming into play here.

Please could you take the time to look at the accompanying pictures and hopefully confirm this is all ok. Many thanks in advance.


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Old 25-10-2016, 07:40 AM
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Russ Payne
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Originally Posted by Bogyoch
Hello All.

I know this topic has been covered many times before, but I would like to be reassured that I have set the timing marks correctly on my engine, having changed the cam belt.

The engine is from my Westfield and I have no history on it. It had a Gates belt fitted, and I have fitted a new one of these. Generally it has run very well during the year or so of ownership. When I first timed up the marks prior to removing the old belt, I noticed that the pointer on the auxiliary shaft was aiming at the left hand side of the half moon. This would suggest that the rotor arm would have been pointing incorrectly within the distributor. I am surprised the car ran as well as it did!

I have timed everything as I think it should be, but would highlight that the inlet cam pointer does seem to be slightly off. If I change a tooth, the pointer is much worse off, so I think this is correct. I am assuming that machining tolerances are coming into play here.

Please could you take the time to look at the accompanying pictures and hopefully confirm this is all ok. Many thanks in advance.




















The inlet cam being slightly out will be due to the head being skimmed
Old 25-10-2016, 08:25 AM
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Bogyoch
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But otherwise all ok Russ?
Old 25-10-2016, 03:46 PM
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tony66
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Default tensioner

make sure u tension in direction of cam belt rotation with the tensioner-not against it
be aware the stud the tensioner attaches to can pull from the block...
otherwise seems ok-its common for the dizzy/phase timing to be messed about with and leads moved to suit...
i used paint to seal/ mark the tensioner and keep an eye on it cracking
Old 26-10-2016, 06:49 AM
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Bogyoch
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Hello Tony. Many thanks for your message. The workshop manual says to rotate the tensioner in a clockwise motion: are you recommending to tension it anti-clockwise? I had read somewhere that the belt can sometimes rub on the thermostat housing if tensioned this way. The stud seems nice and firm in the head. Let's hope it stays that way!


Russ mentioned that the slightly off inlet cam mark could be due to the head having been skimmed. Thinking further on this, wouldn't the mark be off anticlockwise?


I'm probably being paranoid!
Old 26-10-2016, 09:46 AM
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grcossie
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Clockwise is the correct direction, if you do it the other way, the belt been pressed Down to termostat house
Old 26-10-2016, 11:11 AM
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you wont get it any closer without dialling the cams on verniers
Old 26-10-2016, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Loomer
you wont get it any closer without dialling the cams on verniers
Correct James even with skimmed heads they need verniers imo to get perfect.

Looks good.
Old 27-10-2016, 08:55 AM
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Bogyoch
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Many thanks everyone!




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