Help a Yank out! adjustable tcas/compression strut
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Help a Yank out! adjustable tcas/compression strut
I'm working on a 1989 XR4TI and want to tame the handling of my car. To do this I need to be able to accurately set and maintain caster/camber (obviously ) so I have arrived at adjustable tcas and compression struts (as well as a blade type arb I have figured out mostly)
I've heard horror stories of these components from different vendors failing on the street which is unacceptable to me.
Any advice or suggestions on who to buy from or advice/experience in general? I've found compbrake and burton already.
I've heard horror stories of these components from different vendors failing on the street which is unacceptable to me.
Any advice or suggestions on who to buy from or advice/experience in general? I've found compbrake and burton already.
#2
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I would also contact mk and MT motorsport and see what they have to offer. Both of them are on here regularly.
http://mt-motorsport.com/marko/index...=index&cPath=5
http://mt-motorsport.com/marko/index...=index&cPath=5
Last edited by Caddyshack; 28-11-2015 at 08:18 AM.
#3
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What Caddyshack said, avoid the dodgy cheap stuff
http://www.mkmotorsport.co.uk/produc...ng-suspension/
http://www.mkmotorsport.co.uk/produc...ng-suspension/
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What Caddyshack said, avoid the dodgy cheap stuff
http://www.mkmotorsport.co.uk/produc...ng-suspension/
http://www.mkmotorsport.co.uk/produc...ng-suspension/
I'm not sure the mk.stuff is better other than perhaps a nicer bracket for chassis mounting which can be addressed with some minor welding.
Does anyone have some tales that reaffirm or go against my assessment of the parts?
#6
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the issues tend to be with the quality of the fittings used and the size of said fittings
plus some that have sat around for ages and then gone brittle and snapped when they shouldn't have
mainly this is all around the part that replaces the arb on the front of the compression strut so as long as this is ok you shoudl be fine
plus some that have sat around for ages and then gone brittle and snapped when they shouldn't have
mainly this is all around the part that replaces the arb on the front of the compression strut so as long as this is ok you shoudl be fine
#7
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Post 36 in this thread - does not sound good for the compbrake kit
https://passionford.com/forum/genera...-road-car.html
https://passionford.com/forum/genera...ruts-make.html
https://passionford.com/forum/genera...-road-car.html
https://passionford.com/forum/genera...ruts-make.html
Last edited by Mark V8; 28-11-2015 at 03:52 PM.
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I emailed mk motorsport and compbrake and asked them to explain who's is best and why essentially. I was more diplomatic. I'll share the replies, if they reply.
#11
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I have recently used a compbrake pedal box, nice enough kit but zero instructions and I had to cut a load of things to get it to fit despite it being a car specific kit. MK stuff is top quality, tested and it just works plus he gives excellent backup.
#16
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That roll bar is a good idea as you don't have to fit a bladed one. I'm going to be sending mine to a1 in the beginning of the new year to have my front suspension set up sorted. I'm after different top mounts compression struts adjustable lower arms and a bladed roll bar. I've been given a price through a mate who knows him and I can't buy the bits myself cheaper than he is doing it for
#18
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That roll bar is a good idea as you don't have to fit a bladed one. I'm going to be sending mine to a1 in the beginning of the new year to have my front suspension set up sorted. I'm after different top mounts compression struts adjustable lower arms and a bladed roll bar. I've been given a price through a mate who knows him and I can't buy the bits myself cheaper than he is doing it for
steve does a good job
he uses my parts sometimes ,ie bladed roll bars ,comp struts and tcas etc
mark
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Also for some of the silliness I'm doing in my car I could use more room where the sway bar crosses the tunnel. I plan on making a new brace, but one that gives me a little more room for my v8 t5 trans I'm putting behind a duratec. I also hate removing the stock sway bar anytime I want to drop the transmission, an otherwise quick and easy task
#20
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hi
i wish people would do it right ,they fit rock hard suspension and no arb and wonder why the car jumps all over the place ,you should use softish suspension and fit a good bladed roll bar ,that why the suspension absorbs the bumps and the arbs stop the body roll ,you can build antidive into the front to stop the weight transfer on heavy braking
i wish people would do it right ,they fit rock hard suspension and no arb and wonder why the car jumps all over the place ,you should use softish suspension and fit a good bladed roll bar ,that why the suspension absorbs the bumps and the arbs stop the body roll ,you can build antidive into the front to stop the weight transfer on heavy braking
#21
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hi
i wish people would do it right ,they fit rock hard suspension and no arb and wonder why the car jumps all over the place ,you should use softish suspension and fit a good bladed roll bar ,that why the suspension absorbs the bumps and the arbs stop the body roll ,you can build antidive into the front to stop the weight transfer on heavy braking
i wish people would do it right ,they fit rock hard suspension and no arb and wonder why the car jumps all over the place ,you should use softish suspension and fit a good bladed roll bar ,that why the suspension absorbs the bumps and the arbs stop the body roll ,you can build antidive into the front to stop the weight transfer on heavy braking
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hi
i wish people would do it right ,they fit rock hard suspension and no arb and wonder why the car jumps all over the place ,you should use softish suspension and fit a good bladed roll bar ,that why the suspension absorbs the bumps and the arbs stop the body roll ,you can build antidive into the front to stop the weight transfer on heavy braking
i wish people would do it right ,they fit rock hard suspension and no arb and wonder why the car jumps all over the place ,you should use softish suspension and fit a good bladed roll bar ,that why the suspension absorbs the bumps and the arbs stop the body roll ,you can build antidive into the front to stop the weight transfer on heavy braking
350 lb/in in stock location outback with some nice bilstiens. I'm trying to figure out what size abs to run up front and the back currently. I love the way it handles except for maybe a tad too much body roll and some front end dartiness(hence the desire for adjustability up front)
#24
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I'm not sure what you mean on 'front end dartiness', but I found that fitting a set of 3dr front hubs improved the front end grip and turn in feel immensely. After that I think the best thing to do would be to fit a 6 degree rear beam. If you then still feel you need improvements I would look into different arbs.
I have always been wondering if it would be a good idea to fit compression struts, but still use a poly bush between the strut and tca. That way it would be stiffer than using the standard arb, but there is still some compliance in the suspension for road use. The nicest would be if you could swap the poly bushes for metal ones to have the stiff track version.
I have always been wondering if it would be a good idea to fit compression struts, but still use a poly bush between the strut and tca. That way it would be stiffer than using the standard arb, but there is still some compliance in the suspension for road use. The nicest would be if you could swap the poly bushes for metal ones to have the stiff track version.
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I'm not sure what you mean on 'front end dartiness', but I found that fitting a set of 3dr front hubs improved the front end grip and turn in feel immensely. After that I think the best thing to do would be to fit a 6 degree rear beam. If you then still feel you need improvements I would look into different arbs.
I have always been wondering if it would be a good idea to fit compression struts, but still use a poly bush between the strut and tca. That way it would be stiffer than using the standard arb, but there is still some compliance in the suspension for road use. The nicest would be if you could swap the poly bushes for metal ones to have the stiff track version.
I have always been wondering if it would be a good idea to fit compression struts, but still use a poly bush between the strut and tca. That way it would be stiffer than using the standard arb, but there is still some compliance in the suspension for road use. The nicest would be if you could swap the poly bushes for metal ones to have the stiff track version.
A compression strut setup allows me to alter caster and camber so I can tune more on center feel into the steering.
Currently the car just seems ready to change direction almost to the point of instability if you aren't used to it. The numb steering makes it worse.
I have powerflex bushings everywhere in the car currently in addition to the mods I posted earlier.
Last edited by espacef1fan; 05-12-2015 at 02:35 AM.
#26
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I had an issue when I fitted a 2wd arb to my 4wd car
Straight line went from nice and easy to the car wanting to change direction every second, but once the car was in a corner, the turn in and confidence was amazing
Also, fitting too stuff a bar on the rear will give you lots off oversteer, regardless of how soft the springs are, fitted an Escos 22mm rear bar to my otherwise standard Sierra with new ford springs and shocks, and was running a 3.14:1 diff turning 215/45/17 tyres and it was sideways in second with only 128 bhp 128/lb ft doing the pushing
Straight line went from nice and easy to the car wanting to change direction every second, but once the car was in a corner, the turn in and confidence was amazing
Also, fitting too stuff a bar on the rear will give you lots off oversteer, regardless of how soft the springs are, fitted an Escos 22mm rear bar to my otherwise standard Sierra with new ford springs and shocks, and was running a 3.14:1 diff turning 215/45/17 tyres and it was sideways in second with only 128 bhp 128/lb ft doing the pushing
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I wonder if I can't find some extended length tie rod ends, bumpsteer kits they are called stateside. Maybe I can adapt some mustang stuff with minor mods. Time to figure out thread sizes of tie rods and size of steering joint holes in hubs
#29
Thread-bump from deep in the archives. Jeff- Did you ever find a tie-rod end that was a little longer than stock? Planning to fit Scorpio ARB, TCA, and hub carriers and hoping to be able to still run with my XR inner tie-rods rather than swap in Scorpio parts.
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