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1989 XR4x4 2.9 not starting.

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Old 02-03-2015, 03:53 PM
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Dougster800
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Default 1989 XR4x4 2.9 not starting.

I'm getting a spark to all the plugs and dissy cap and leads were replaced recently.

It's just turning over and not firing.

Am I led to believe there is a fuel return valve that could be causing this? The fuel pump appears to be working.

There's also an aftermarket high end alarm fitted. (Immobiliser?)

Here it is below. Genuine 30,000m

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dougla...k/14837245427/
Old 02-03-2015, 04:35 PM
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tony66
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Default 4x4

lovely looking car...
is that the model with twin airflow meters...?-without the k jet metering head?
check the fuel pump relay-bridge same to try-normally pink color[bright]
sometimes worth replacing the fuel pump harness for uprated type if you find the relay melted[nice 30a cable]
Old 05-03-2015, 01:28 PM
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Dougster800
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This bad boy is bolted in next to the relays under the dash.

Could this be immobilising the car?






Last edited by Dougster800; 05-03-2015 at 02:00 PM.
Old 07-03-2015, 11:18 AM
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tony66
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Default clifford issues

possibly
i have a working 650 and plips for it-,you could substitute it...
there are 8 black wires coming out rear these will be unlabled after fitting-you would have to connect these though
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Old 07-03-2015, 01:05 PM
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Id check fuses if u have spark and fuel the clifford is t immobilising it. My saph wouldnt start few months back tried everything same as u had spark and fuel then found a 10amp fuse blown changed it and bang she started
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Old 07-03-2015, 02:46 PM
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Dougster800
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What fuse was blown doga-ot?

I'm definitely getting a spark.
Old 07-03-2015, 05:06 PM
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martysmartie
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Originally Posted by tony66
lovely looking car...
is that the model with twin airflow meters...?-without the k jet metering head?
check the fuel pump relay-bridge same to try-normally pink color[bright]
sometimes worth replacing the fuel pump harness for uprated type if you find the relay melted[nice 30a cable]
It will be EFI.

If it's not turning over, then you need to investigate why the starter motor is not working.

Re the immobiliser, I wouldn't have thought so, as you have ignition.

Martin
Old 07-03-2015, 05:28 PM
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Dougster800
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It's turning fine.

"If your engine runs rough when started from warm but not cold the problem is normally caused by fuel leaking from the injectors or the cold start valve not operating correctly. You can safely disconnect the electrical lead from the cold start valve (make sure it is insulated when disconnected) and run the car. If the problem disappears the valve is either faulty or the thermo-time switch that controls it. The cold start valve can be removed and cleaned as this can sometimes overcome the problem. Remember to remove the pressure from the fuel rail first before attempting to disconnect it. If the problem is not solved by this the injectors are probably dribbling slightly, they will need to be cleaned. Also there is a non-return valve, for holding pressure in the fuel line, which if faulty will create a lower pressure in the fuel line."

I found this else where on the web.

It the rain stops long enough I'll check the fuses tomorrow.
Old 07-03-2015, 05:44 PM
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Mark V8
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If the fuel pump is running it will not be what I'm about to suggest, but it's free and takes seconds so might be worth a go!


Try re-setting the fuel pump cut off switch under the spare wheel, I had problems with my one not starting a few years ago and the switch just needed a push...
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Old 07-03-2015, 06:01 PM
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Cheers.

Added to my list.

The fuel pump sounds as if it is running and giving it a dunt made the car cough a little.
Old 07-03-2015, 07:04 PM
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It turns over?
The fuel pump buzzes when you turn the ignition on?
There is a spark when you crank it?
There is no cold start injector, that was on the mfi 2.8 with kjet
Did you plug the leads in correctly when they were fitted?
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:57 PM
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It turns
I'll listen for the buzz
I have a spark at cap and plugs
Leads are correct

I'm in tomorrow (I sell cars but our MOT station isn't. I'll see if one of the mechanics will pop in cause I don't want my shirt getting dirty!!)

Thanks.
Old 07-03-2015, 09:21 PM
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martysmartie
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For some reason I thought you said it wasn't turning over.

Is yours EFI? You have ignition, so it would suggest a fuel delivery problem.

Martin
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:31 PM
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Second line in OP.

I think it's EFI??

I'l get a pic and vid tomorrow.
Old 08-03-2015, 12:16 PM
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remember changing a wheel in my old 2.9 XR and I didn't realise I'd knocked the fuel cut off switch under the spare wheel, changed fuel pumps and all sorts before I found it, never knew it was there, just a thought
Old 13-03-2015, 10:14 PM
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Dougster800
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One may start crying soon.

Fuel cut off switch is fine.

Pump delivering fuel.

I'm getting a spark (but faint)

Relay is not melted.

Fuses all fine.

Clifford??
Old 14-03-2015, 12:51 AM
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tony66
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Default efi

is it earthed ok-ecu also...try a jump lead from battery earth to block...
substitute coil
check static timing still ok-all pulleys turning[ integrity -woodruf keys etc ]

http://uploads.turbosport.co.uk/getr...pinout1of2.gif

this might help a bit-you used to get a wee gunson tool to flash codes for these[and cossies] i am sure i have an adaptor in the master kit for mt2500 snap on too-so somebody nearer may also have same
Old 14-03-2015, 07:52 AM
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I would be looking at the coil if it has a faint spark.


One of these would sort it out!


http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Produc...FTHLtAodWkYAOg
Old 14-03-2015, 10:09 AM
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martysmartie
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Is the spark stronger from the king lead, than it is at the HT leads?

Martin
Old 09-04-2015, 04:12 PM
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Dougster800
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I had NGK Iriduim BPR7EIX plugs fitted.

The old plugs were replaced and it's running.

I've now got new NGK BCPR6ES plugs to fit but haven't had a chance. (and what should my gap be?)

The rear door warning light is now on and my Clifford 650 plip won't lock the car.

Last edited by Dougster800; 09-04-2015 at 04:17 PM.
Old 09-04-2015, 05:25 PM
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complicated answers for simple questions

rear door warning light is on more than likely because the pin has failed in the lock, remove the door card, remove the lock mechanism and you will see a small plastic thing stuck to the side with 2 wires coming out of it
at that age of car is should have a round white or black 3 pin plug so before you start dismatling it all short the wires out and see if the light goes out
BUT
there could also be a fault in the door loom so you need to go into the pillar to see there first by shorting that wire out, then follow it along the line to the point where the pin might have failed (because the grease has dried out)

as for the locking, does it unlock? there are some places where a cheap fitter will have easy access to the loom and join it in but this is also a fairly easy place for the joint to fail so find that and solve the issue
Old 09-04-2015, 07:38 PM
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Dougster800
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It was working perfectly until it came back from the electrician who diagnosed the spark plug issue.

I'll check all locks are working with the key tomorrow.
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