1989 XR4x4 2.9 not starting.
#1
Virgin
Thread Starter
1989 XR4x4 2.9 not starting.
I'm getting a spark to all the plugs and dissy cap and leads were replaced recently.
It's just turning over and not firing.
Am I led to believe there is a fuel return valve that could be causing this? The fuel pump appears to be working.
There's also an aftermarket high end alarm fitted. (Immobiliser?)
Here it is below. Genuine 30,000m
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dougla...k/14837245427/
It's just turning over and not firing.
Am I led to believe there is a fuel return valve that could be causing this? The fuel pump appears to be working.
There's also an aftermarket high end alarm fitted. (Immobiliser?)
Here it is below. Genuine 30,000m
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dougla...k/14837245427/
#2
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
iTrader: (7)
4x4
lovely looking car...
is that the model with twin airflow meters...?-without the k jet metering head?
check the fuel pump relay-bridge same to try-normally pink color[bright]
sometimes worth replacing the fuel pump harness for uprated type if you find the relay melted[nice 30a cable]
is that the model with twin airflow meters...?-without the k jet metering head?
check the fuel pump relay-bridge same to try-normally pink color[bright]
sometimes worth replacing the fuel pump harness for uprated type if you find the relay melted[nice 30a cable]
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Dougster800 (07-03-2015)
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Dougster800 (07-03-2015)
#7
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (1)
lovely looking car...
is that the model with twin airflow meters...?-without the k jet metering head?
check the fuel pump relay-bridge same to try-normally pink color[bright]
sometimes worth replacing the fuel pump harness for uprated type if you find the relay melted[nice 30a cable]
is that the model with twin airflow meters...?-without the k jet metering head?
check the fuel pump relay-bridge same to try-normally pink color[bright]
sometimes worth replacing the fuel pump harness for uprated type if you find the relay melted[nice 30a cable]
If it's not turning over, then you need to investigate why the starter motor is not working.
Re the immobiliser, I wouldn't have thought so, as you have ignition.
Martin
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#8
Virgin
Thread Starter
It's turning fine.
"If your engine runs rough when started from warm but not cold the problem is normally caused by fuel leaking from the injectors or the cold start valve not operating correctly. You can safely disconnect the electrical lead from the cold start valve (make sure it is insulated when disconnected) and run the car. If the problem disappears the valve is either faulty or the thermo-time switch that controls it. The cold start valve can be removed and cleaned as this can sometimes overcome the problem. Remember to remove the pressure from the fuel rail first before attempting to disconnect it. If the problem is not solved by this the injectors are probably dribbling slightly, they will need to be cleaned. Also there is a non-return valve, for holding pressure in the fuel line, which if faulty will create a lower pressure in the fuel line."
I found this else where on the web.
It the rain stops long enough I'll check the fuses tomorrow.
"If your engine runs rough when started from warm but not cold the problem is normally caused by fuel leaking from the injectors or the cold start valve not operating correctly. You can safely disconnect the electrical lead from the cold start valve (make sure it is insulated when disconnected) and run the car. If the problem disappears the valve is either faulty or the thermo-time switch that controls it. The cold start valve can be removed and cleaned as this can sometimes overcome the problem. Remember to remove the pressure from the fuel rail first before attempting to disconnect it. If the problem is not solved by this the injectors are probably dribbling slightly, they will need to be cleaned. Also there is a non-return valve, for holding pressure in the fuel line, which if faulty will create a lower pressure in the fuel line."
I found this else where on the web.
It the rain stops long enough I'll check the fuses tomorrow.
#9
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (2)
If the fuel pump is running it will not be what I'm about to suggest, but it's free and takes seconds so might be worth a go!
Try re-setting the fuel pump cut off switch under the spare wheel, I had problems with my one not starting a few years ago and the switch just needed a push...
Try re-setting the fuel pump cut off switch under the spare wheel, I had problems with my one not starting a few years ago and the switch just needed a push...
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Dougster800 (07-03-2015)
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#12
Virgin
Thread Starter
It turns
I'll listen for the buzz
I have a spark at cap and plugs
Leads are correct
I'm in tomorrow (I sell cars but our MOT station isn't. I'll see if one of the mechanics will pop in cause I don't want my shirt getting dirty!!)
Thanks.
I'll listen for the buzz
I have a spark at cap and plugs
Leads are correct
I'm in tomorrow (I sell cars but our MOT station isn't. I'll see if one of the mechanics will pop in cause I don't want my shirt getting dirty!!)
Thanks.
The following users liked this post:
Dougster800 (07-03-2015)
#15
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
remember changing a wheel in my old 2.9 XR and I didn't realise I'd knocked the fuel cut off switch under the spare wheel, changed fuel pumps and all sorts before I found it, never knew it was there, just a thought
#16
Virgin
Thread Starter
One may start crying soon.
Fuel cut off switch is fine.
Pump delivering fuel.
I'm getting a spark (but faint)
Relay is not melted.
Fuses all fine.
Clifford??
Fuel cut off switch is fine.
Pump delivering fuel.
I'm getting a spark (but faint)
Relay is not melted.
Fuses all fine.
Clifford??
#17
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
iTrader: (7)
efi
is it earthed ok-ecu also...try a jump lead from battery earth to block...
substitute coil
check static timing still ok-all pulleys turning[ integrity -woodruf keys etc ]
http://uploads.turbosport.co.uk/getr...pinout1of2.gif
this might help a bit-you used to get a wee gunson tool to flash codes for these[and cossies] i am sure i have an adaptor in the master kit for mt2500 snap on too-so somebody nearer may also have same
substitute coil
check static timing still ok-all pulleys turning[ integrity -woodruf keys etc ]
http://uploads.turbosport.co.uk/getr...pinout1of2.gif
this might help a bit-you used to get a wee gunson tool to flash codes for these[and cossies] i am sure i have an adaptor in the master kit for mt2500 snap on too-so somebody nearer may also have same
#18
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (2)
I would be looking at the coil if it has a faint spark.
One of these would sort it out!
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Produc...FTHLtAodWkYAOg
One of these would sort it out!
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Produc...FTHLtAodWkYAOg
#20
Virgin
Thread Starter
I had NGK Iriduim BPR7EIX plugs fitted.
The old plugs were replaced and it's running.
I've now got new NGK BCPR6ES plugs to fit but haven't had a chance. (and what should my gap be?)
The rear door warning light is now on and my Clifford 650 plip won't lock the car.
The old plugs were replaced and it's running.
I've now got new NGK BCPR6ES plugs to fit but haven't had a chance. (and what should my gap be?)
The rear door warning light is now on and my Clifford 650 plip won't lock the car.
Last edited by Dougster800; 09-04-2015 at 04:17 PM.
#21
Resident Wrestling Legend
iTrader: (3)
complicated answers for simple questions
rear door warning light is on more than likely because the pin has failed in the lock, remove the door card, remove the lock mechanism and you will see a small plastic thing stuck to the side with 2 wires coming out of it
at that age of car is should have a round white or black 3 pin plug so before you start dismatling it all short the wires out and see if the light goes out
BUT
there could also be a fault in the door loom so you need to go into the pillar to see there first by shorting that wire out, then follow it along the line to the point where the pin might have failed (because the grease has dried out)
as for the locking, does it unlock? there are some places where a cheap fitter will have easy access to the loom and join it in but this is also a fairly easy place for the joint to fail so find that and solve the issue
rear door warning light is on more than likely because the pin has failed in the lock, remove the door card, remove the lock mechanism and you will see a small plastic thing stuck to the side with 2 wires coming out of it
at that age of car is should have a round white or black 3 pin plug so before you start dismatling it all short the wires out and see if the light goes out
BUT
there could also be a fault in the door loom so you need to go into the pillar to see there first by shorting that wire out, then follow it along the line to the point where the pin might have failed (because the grease has dried out)
as for the locking, does it unlock? there are some places where a cheap fitter will have easy access to the loom and join it in but this is also a fairly easy place for the joint to fail so find that and solve the issue
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