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My cozzy's been burning oil on over run for a while now but last week (after doing the stage 1) cylinder 4 kept oiling up the spark plug as soon as you lifted off.
So the heads got to come off to see if its the valve guides or the piston rings! Oh the joys I just can't wait...
Hopefully it's the guides or stem oil seals, she's only done a genuine 52000miles but I guess we will see Monday when I take off the head. Will keep you guys posted
When mine did that a few years ago it was the seals in the turbo. Although it was never enough to oil up a plug
I did the head gasket last year and checked the guides whilst it was apart, they were well worn and i had them replaced. It never suffered from smoke on the over run because of this though?
Cheers for all the advice guys, have checked the turbo and oil breather system all good there.
So day 1 is done and the heads off!
Have checked the guides and the stem seals and there all good, well a small amount of play from the guides, anyone know the tolerances for the valve guides? Have got a engineer coming to inspect the head tomorrow anyways but good to know.
There's no scoring of any of the cylinders so she's hasn't chewed through a ring, but still could be the ring seals so have filled up the cylinders and leaving her tonight to see if the fluid drops.
Not sure how well you can see in the picture but all the levels dropped in the cylinders with number 3 and 4 the worst. Have ordered up new rings and big end bearings and starting to remove the block tomorrow.
The engineer checked the head and the valve guides are all good so have re seated and cleaned up the head all ready.
I checked the turbo hoses, intercooler and inlet manifold there were all clean and free of oil. Then I sent the turbo off to get checked just to be in the safe side!
The sumps off, gonna strip down the block tomorrow. Forgot to mention before as you can see from the pictures the exhaust valves have hit all the pistons at some point to.
Timed up like a pinto puts marks in the pistons like that usually intake side tho.
If is was me i would bore next size and have new pistons with valve cut outs.
check your valve guides for damage-lots replace the valves but the guides have been damaged also and not changed...great little engines to change-the 4x4 versions are a pain in comparison...
good luck
Just had a look back through the massive folder of history for the car. Apparently the cambelt broke back in 1991 with only 12000 on the clock and the work was done by ford to repair. The Pistons were taken out and scanned for fractures then to. I don't really fancy having the block bored out of she doesn't need it but will get the Pistons sent away and X-Rayed when I take them out to be on the safe side.
The valve guides have been checked to and are all good, in fact there spot on so I'm guessing they have been changed at some point to.
Stripped the block today and took it down to the engineers and it needs a rebore, the worst was .8mm out on number 3 the rest pretty much as bad.So there gonna sort it out and fit the oversized Pistons.
Have ordered up some new main bearings to as the centre one was starting to wear into the brass.
Stripped the block today and took it down to the engineers and it needs a rebore, the worst was .8mm out on number 3 the rest pretty much as bad.So there gonna sort it out and fit the oversized Pistons.
Have ordered up some new main bearings to as the centre one was starting to wear into the brass.
That's a lot of wear! First oversize is 0.5mm.
Check the crank journals for ovality too especially with wear characteristics like that.
You're clearly doing the right thing though. Hope you are back on the road soon.
Yeah it looks like this engine has had a hard life! The crack journals are good, had them checked. The wear is down to end float as the thrust washers were worn.
This engine isn't her original engine either, just checked the block number to the log book and they don't match. God knows how many miles this engine has done!
Ah well she will be good as new once all the work is done. Blocks back Wednesday!
Picked up the block yesterday and started to re build it. Got the crank back in and the new Pistons are on the con rods ready to go in tomorrow. Gonna give it a lick of black paint to once its built.
Looking for everyone's oppinions on breaking in the engine once it's re build. There's a lot of different opinions varying from taking it easy for the first 500miles (under 4000rpm) then oil change. Some say stay under 4000rpm for the first 100 miles, oil change and then keep it under 6000rpm for another 500miles.
to break in use mineral oil for first few miles-once you are sure bottom end is quiet give it some boost[try and avoid big revs]-dont be too gentle or bores can glaze-you need to get the rings well aganst the bore
then i would go semi synthetic for say a few hundred miles or so give or take-then once everything has bedded in go fully synthetic..
there are variations on it and different ideas
Timed up like a pinto puts marks in the pistons like that usually intake side tho.
If is was me i would bore next size and have new pistons with valve cut outs.
Agree new pistons.
Don't mean to be rude or cause any argument,but I've done what your doing and in the end caused a world of pain,also had advice from local engineer telling me to do what your doing and it ended costing more to do again,
but it's the bores that wear more,not that the rings don't mind normally it's both when the bores shine like yours.
I had a engine that was built by castle performance that had done 25+k and I could see the honing clear as day when the head came off.if you look at your picture your bores look shiny,it not ideal,I see you now had the bores honed aswell so new rings and honing is only gonna be a very short term fix as honing is taking material away from bore combined with already the original wear of the bores.new rings won't take up the bore wear
Th yb engines are more specific to certain requirements of tolerances due to the boost pressure etc none of which do I understand either only what I've learned and listened to by nms who have built my motors for me,be a shame to wast your time and money when you have it apart and most tuners unless a new big spec 500bhp car that had a 10-15k freshen up from new built motor won't hone and fit rings as a rule of thumb even the guides would need a change at that level,
From what you say you don't think the engine had a easy life either just thought I'd let you know my experience,your cars looks sweet to good luck with the build.
So finished off the block today and gave it a lick of paint. Was going to put the clutch on and get it back in but they sent me the wrong clutch, so tomorrow!
I had the block and head checked to see if they needed skimming but they didn't so no point.
getting there but are you sure the head and vlock didn't need skimming, that was an ideal opportunity to skim both and fit a fit and forget wrc head gasket
getting there but are you sure the head and vlock didn't need skimming, that was an ideal opportunity to skim both and fit a fit and forget wrc head gasket
19-02-2015, 07:46 PM
Sapphire engine tear down & rebuild
