XR4Ti > Cosworth fuel tank
#1
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XR4Ti > Cosworth fuel tank
I'm doing a Cosworth YB conversion on my XR4Ti. Part of my process will be using a Magnex exhaust system. To clear the rear muffler/silencer I chose to use a oem Sierra Cosworth tank. I've bought a new tank, fuel level sensor, fuel pump cradle, Saff plastic filler neck(mods will be needed)since I will use our fuel door and all needed seals.
Here's my biggest hoop to jump through, I need to remove some bracing that Ford added to the Merkur to support our long tanks, reshape the spare tire well. Mostly on right to clear the Sierra tank. The filler neck, on ours it goes through hatch area then back through deck floor to the tank. The Sierra's are slightly forward from ours, and are in the wheel well itself.
What I'm looking for is the diameter of the Sierra spare tire well, at the bottom before it curves upward, across the middle and again at the top where it levels off. These will help me reshape it. My oem spare(donut tire) is 23inch diameter. My well is roughly 24 inchs. I'm guessing your spare is 20 or less in diameter.
Below are some various pic to show what I'm dealing with:
Hatch area, larger spare well
Shorter wheel well
Pass through filler neck
Larger spare tire well
Extra room needed for tank to fit
Extra bracing
More extra bracing
Need to shorten spare tire well
Our big as tank, still 14 gallons!
Uses a special piggy back circuit board on rear of cluster to figure level
Here's my biggest hoop to jump through, I need to remove some bracing that Ford added to the Merkur to support our long tanks, reshape the spare tire well. Mostly on right to clear the Sierra tank. The filler neck, on ours it goes through hatch area then back through deck floor to the tank. The Sierra's are slightly forward from ours, and are in the wheel well itself.
What I'm looking for is the diameter of the Sierra spare tire well, at the bottom before it curves upward, across the middle and again at the top where it levels off. These will help me reshape it. My oem spare(donut tire) is 23inch diameter. My well is roughly 24 inchs. I'm guessing your spare is 20 or less in diameter.
Below are some various pic to show what I'm dealing with:
Hatch area, larger spare well
Shorter wheel well
Pass through filler neck
Larger spare tire well
Extra room needed for tank to fit
Extra bracing
More extra bracing
Need to shorten spare tire well
Our big as tank, still 14 gallons!
Uses a special piggy back circuit board on rear of cluster to figure level
Last edited by NZWINRZ; 14-12-2014 at 01:02 AM. Reason: Added Pictures
#2
grease monkey
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Hey Sir!
I am also doing a YB conversion and haven't gone to the Sierra tank yet. I'm trying to switch my intank low pressure pump with a new 340LPH Aeromotive pump.
Was the exhaust fitment the main issue with changing tanks?
I am looking for any future kinks in my build. Yours looks like it's coming along, good luck with the rest.
TMitch
I am also doing a YB conversion and haven't gone to the Sierra tank yet. I'm trying to switch my intank low pressure pump with a new 340LPH Aeromotive pump.
Was the exhaust fitment the main issue with changing tanks?
I am looking for any future kinks in my build. Yours looks like it's coming along, good luck with the rest.
TMitch
#3
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North American YB owners unite! Hehe
I have nothing to add other than I had considered doing this but it just wasn't worth the trouble to me. I plan on doing a full fuel cell system in the future. My YB powered XR (currently at a shop getting the Sierra rear quarter glass fitted and full paint) has a 3" Mongoose exhaust system and I chose to cut off the rear muffler for clearance. It didn't really lack much to clear, maybe less than a half inch. I used a 4" Supertrap muffler but may change that later.
I have nothing to add other than I had considered doing this but it just wasn't worth the trouble to me. I plan on doing a full fuel cell system in the future. My YB powered XR (currently at a shop getting the Sierra rear quarter glass fitted and full paint) has a 3" Mongoose exhaust system and I chose to cut off the rear muffler for clearance. It didn't really lack much to clear, maybe less than a half inch. I used a 4" Supertrap muffler but may change that later.
#4
Part of the Furniture
Thread Starter
Part of main issue was the XR4Ti tank is to long for the rear muffler to fit. Second is I've got most of Cossie swap but the quarter glass. Working on a good cloned Cossie. Engine, trans, Saff 2wd front hubs, rear drive line, installed hydro boosted break master cylinder assembly, ABS harness and sensors, got 16&18 Saff rear arb's.
This Magnex Stainless Exhaust is what I bought to use
Here's a link to my PhotoBucket albums, to see build work
:http://s714.photobucket.com/user/nzw...?sort=3&page=1
Here's a link to my build thread on MCOA site:
http://forum.merkurclub.com/forum/vi...p?f=37&t=24193
Last edited by NZWINRZ; 14-12-2014 at 02:50 AM.
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TMitch (14-12-2014)
#5
grease monkey
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Merkur owners unite indeed!
I will probably just go with the mongoose exhaust. Did you find the quarter glass hard to source? Should be fairly straight forward I would think.
I will check out the album! Thanks again. Chat at ya later.
I will probably just go with the mongoose exhaust. Did you find the quarter glass hard to source? Should be fairly straight forward I would think.
I will check out the album! Thanks again. Chat at ya later.
#6
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Found a few up for sale, problem is shipping to the states and arriving in 1piece. Would need to be crated for protection and someone willing to do that. Don't think the cost would be to sever.
PS If someone would know of anyone that would do that, I'm interested!!!
PS If someone would know of anyone that would do that, I'm interested!!!
#7
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I got most of my stuff from Gary at RSCosworthBreakers. RS front and rear bumpers, exhaust, rear quarter glass and interior trim. He had it shipped on a Pallet and the shipper delivered it to Philly airport where I picked it up on my way to New England. Shipping wasn't too bad.
That's a HUGE exhaust! Why does it split into two at the downpipe?
I'm not doing the Sierra fuel filler opening either. My Cossie clone will look about 90-95% but with a bunch of aftermarket modifications. Chassis work is already finished or close to it.
By the way, one advantage of using the Merkur chassis is that it's significantly stiffer than the MK1 Sierra chassis
That's a HUGE exhaust! Why does it split into two at the downpipe?
I'm not doing the Sierra fuel filler opening either. My Cossie clone will look about 90-95% but with a bunch of aftermarket modifications. Chassis work is already finished or close to it.
By the way, one advantage of using the Merkur chassis is that it's significantly stiffer than the MK1 Sierra chassis
Last edited by Boober944; 14-12-2014 at 12:32 PM.
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#8
Part of the Furniture
Thread Starter
The Magnex exhaust is by design like the OEM exhaust, just stainless, larger diameter for less backpressure and more sporty exhaust note.
Last edited by NZWINRZ; 14-12-2014 at 02:03 PM.
#9
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Thread Starter
Now...enough side tracking...back to my original issue.
Could anyone get me the measurements of their spare compartment?
Plus...what is the diameter and type of spare tire?
Could anyone get me the measurements of their spare compartment?
Plus...what is the diameter and type of spare tire?
Last edited by NZWINRZ; 14-12-2014 at 02:07 PM.
#11
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Paul, I'd love to go that route. That way I'd have the proper mounting and no extra bracing in my way, if only I could get that section of the Sierra here in USA. Don't think the shipping would be cheap!
Last edited by NZWINRZ; 16-12-2014 at 06:57 PM.
#13
#14
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Thanks Paul, I think the distance from the center of spare tire to center line of car plus the diameter of spare tire well will help a lot.
Glenn
Last edited by NZWINRZ; 20-12-2014 at 03:11 PM.
#15
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Thread Starter
Been looking very close at some of the pics and I see my problem. The Sierra has rear frame rails that are wider than the Merkur's. The Sierra's frame are where the bumper brackets go into, where people insert metal to support the car for a restoration jig. If you look at my pic below I had to make cutouts just to the outside of the Merkurs frame rails, which are where the round holes are. Ours used some bumper shocks between body and aluminum bumper core to absorb a 5mph impact. This would explain why I need to move the well of 25inch diameter over, yet I can't cause the frame leg will have to go over as well, on both sides.
Last edited by NZWINRZ; 24-12-2014 at 02:07 AM.
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