avinit1rs

iTrader: (1)

Afternoon,
I need some help. I bought a complete wasted spark kit from MSD and a engine loom from car looms uk. The car ran fine before I touched it but since fitting the loom and wasted spark kit I can't get it to run. I have done a search on here and found lots of info and have some results below.

1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20. 11.8v
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30. 4.9v
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15. 2.14v
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17. V 4.9v (I've swapped the two outer wires on tps but still getting same readings)
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17. 1.37v
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms. 672 ohms
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. 0.1v
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms. 819 ohms
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. 0.7v
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. 3 ohms
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. 3 ohms
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. 3 ohms
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. 3 ohms
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V. 7.3v
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click. Yes
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs. Pump runs
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp) no reading
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp) no reading

Like I say the car was running fine before I fitted the new bits.
Anybody got any ideas why I've got low crank and phase sensor voltage, no reading from the coolant or charge temp sensors and I only have a small spark on the plugs when the ignition is turned on or off, and the tps I can't get my head around.
Any info would be much appreciated.

Gary

cossynut2

[QUOTE=avinit1rs;6437963]Afternoon,
I need some help. I bought a complete wasted spark kit from MSD and a engine loom from car looms uk. The car ran fine before I touched it but since fitting the loom and wasted spark kit I can't get it to run. I have done a search on here and found lots of info and have some results below.

1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20. 11.8v
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30. 4.9v
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15. 2.14v
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17. V 4.9v (I've swapped the two outer wires on tps but still getting same readings)
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17. 1.37v
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms. 672 ohms
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. 0.1v
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms. 819 ohms
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. 0.7v
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. 3 ohms
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. 3 ohms
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. 3 ohms
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. 3 ohms
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V. 7.3v
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click. Yes
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs. Pump runs
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp) no reading
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp) no reading

Like I say the car was running fine before I fitted the new bits.
Anybody got any ideas why I've got low crank and phase sensor voltage, no reading from the coolant or charge temp sensors and I only have a small spark on the plugs when the ignition is turned on or off, and the tps I can't get my head around.
Any info would be much appreciate

Hi Gary,
This may sound stupid but make sure that the ecu cover is not touching any of the wiring for the wasted spark driver when you screw it down. I had this problem and the car would not run. Put a thick gasket on the ecu body and hey presto problem solved! Sometimes the simplest things that you would not even think about can be the problem.
Cheers Richard.

scottyrs

iTrader: (1)

Hope you get it sorted mate unfortunately I don't know any info to help you but I've read a few story's about issues with the wasted spark kit

avinit1rs

iTrader: (1)

Quick question should the Middle pin on tps have 5 volts when plug is disconnected from the sensor?

delbee1

Did you fit the wasted spark driver yourself or did you send it to MSD to do??

If you sent it to them then they would of check the ECU works with the driver before sending it back.

What have you checked so far??

Is the pump priming?? Getting spark??

delbee1

Just read about the spark....

Did you buy a complete new loom with the wasted spark wiring included? If so do you have the MSD wasted spark loom and your old loom still? You could wire these up to rule out the new loom

avinit1rs

iTrader: (1)

Cheers for replies. I bought the complete kit but then decided to get a new engine loom and then fit both together. I fitted the wasted spark myself.
I don't think it's the wasted spark but to rule it out I've sent the ecu to MSD. I will wait to find out what they say.

avinit1rs

iTrader: (1)

Hi all. I have my ecu back from MSD and they have tested it in there car and all is working fine. Problem is it still won't work in my car. I've put another new ignition amplifier on it and a new battery. I'm really stumped. I don't know what else to check or do. I'm still only getting a spark when turning the ignition on and off but nothing when cranking.
Anybody know a mobile mechanic that's familiar with wasted spark and cossies in the Bromley, Kent area that I can call out to take a look.

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

try reversing the phase sensor connector inside the dizzy

avinit1rs

iTrader: (1)

Jon you are an absolute diamond. I have spent about 3 weeks of evenings and weekends trying to find what I've done wrong. If you were closer I'd buy you a beer. What's your PayPal details as you deserve a beer on me.