Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone have the manual/wiring instructions by any chance?!
Bought a second hand one but it didn't come with any so need them to wire it all up!!

Cheers

Tony

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

I've got 2 bits of info saved - use whichever seems appropriate:

SECS Monitor Wiring

WHITE à ECU PIN 15 MAP SENSOR

YELLOW à ECU PIN 31 AIR CHARGE TEMPERATURE SENSOR

BLUE à ECU PIN 29 ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR


GREEN à ECU PIN 17 THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR


GREY* à ECU PIN 25 IGNITION SIGNAL FOR RPM READING


RED à ECU PIN 20 +12V SUPPLY


BLACK à ECU PIN 1 GROUND


*Grey is only for the revised model - older versions didn’t show the RPM




IF you still have the original SECS loom from the monitor to the ECU loom then this will apply...

CONNECTOR 1 PIN 1 - WHITE WIRE - MAP SENSOR - ECU PIN 15
CONNECTOR 1 PIN 2 - YELLOW WIRE - CHARGE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR - ECU PIN 31
CONNECTOR 1 PIN 3 - BLUE WIRE - COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR - ECU PIN 29
CONNECTOR 1 PIN 4 - GREEN WIRE - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR - ECU PIN 17
CONNECTOR 1 PIN 5 - GREY WIRE - ECU IGNITION SIGNAL INPUT - ECU PIN 25 (IF FITTED)
CONNECTOR 1 PIN 6 - NOT USED
CONNECTOR 1 PIN 7 - RED WIRE - 12 VOLT POSITIVE SUPPLY - ECU PIN 20
CONNECTOR 1 PIN 8 - BLACK WIRE - GROUND - ECU PIN 1

CONNECTOR 2 PIN 1 - BUTTON 1
CONNECTOR 2 PIN 2 - BUTTON 2
CONNECTOR 2 PIN 3 - BUTTONS COMMON

CONNECTOR 3 PIN 1 - OUTPUT 1 POSITIVE 12 volts (ALARM LED )
CONNECTOR 3 PIN 2 - OUTPUT 2 POSITIVE 12 volts (WATER INJECTION)
CONNECTOR 3 PIN 3 - OUTPUT 1 NEGATIVE (ALARM LED)
CONNECTOR 3 PIN 4 - OUTPUT 2 NEGATIVE (WATER INJECTION)

CONNECTOR 4 PIN 1 - NOT USED
CONNECTOR 4 PIN 2 - NOT USED
CONNECTOR 4 PIN 3 - NOT USED
CONNECTOR 4 PIN 4 - NOT USED

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

Cheers mate much appreciated, it's had a new screen to fix dead pixels and comes with a new loom!!

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

Right she's all wired in, kinda had to guess how it works but getting some alarms already lol.

Checked the voltage with a multimeter and it's low so may need a new alternator so that's on thing, any idea on the rest?!

MARCOSWORTH

iTrader: (24)

Charge sensor is fucked, mine did the same on coolant, fitted a new coolant sensor and problem solved

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

Cool cheers was thinking the same will get a new one and see what happens!!
Just realised my dash clocks are out at mo which probably explains the charging fault!

What should the map sensor be reading on idle just out of interest?!

MARCOSWORTH

iTrader: (24)

Map is normally under -0,60 bar at idle

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

Cool cheers mate hopefully will get the clocks back in and new sensor fitted then get her back on the road again!!

Next job is full re spray then live map

PEABUM

Hey guys my man is looking for a new escort cosworth engine bay wiring loom does anyone know a good place/company to get one from!!

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

CW Looms would probably be able to sort him out mate

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Don't let this fool you, check the power at the battery, I bet it's higher that what you are getting at the ECU? If so there is a reason for this...

Martin

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

No mate already done that it's pretty much the same so either the alternator isn't kicking out enough or there's another problem.
First port of call is get the clocks back in, check and go from there

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

That power at the battery would mean it isn't charging!

Check the output at the alternator itself, quite a common problem is that the lead from it to the battery gets cooks, thus loosing you power.

Martin

PEABUM

Hey mate thats great! Do you happen to have there phone number! That would be amazing if you have!

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

Yea I know Martie but it was fine before I took it off the road and the only thing different is the clocks are out which from memory happens if their not plugged in cos the warning light is an open circuit?!
If it's not that then obviously will start looking into the alternator wiring

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Missed this from your post above, yes without a power supply to the unit (i.e. the warning light) you have no charge whatsoever, if you rev hard enough though, that will excite the field windings!

Mar

cossiedad

Hi Martin.

I have this exact problem with my car. SECS shows low battery alarm and voltage drops to below 10V, but battery voltage measured with a multimeter is always over 13V (up to 13.8V) depending on what's switched on. SECS is soldered straight into the ECU plug. Car drives fine, even at night with lights etc on. Alternator was a new Lucas item about 2/3 years ago.

Can you shed any light on this issue?

cheeRS

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Yes the problem is most likely the supply, it comes via two fusible links, it is these that usually cause the problem, as they corrode, thus build resistance.

If you look at other circuits (i.e. the cigarette lighter) you will notice it here as well.

If you look near the battery, you will see them, do NOT be tempted to simply replace them with cable though!

Martin

kosienutter

I had the same and it ended up being the battery warning bulb not inplace properly and the volts went back up both at the battey terminals and the monitor and as mentioned had to rev to 3k for it to chargenthe battery before i found the bulb to be at fault.

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

It's reading better now at 12.5v but not had a proper chance to look at it and would prefer to see 13+ volts!

Will have a proper look at it soon when I have the energy lol, but all warnings have gone now voltage has improved and change the act sensor!