YB crankshaft
#4
#5
A load of rubbish!!
Any one risking a std crank for upto and over 9k are mad!! its not the strength its the harmonics caused when using these at that rev and power level..
Iv had a custom narrow journal arrows one made for my conversion under mike jennings advice and drawings..
The crank is stronger lighter and twin counter balanced to help with harmonics as well as having cross drilled big end journals...
A std crank is an awesome bit of kit to say 600-650 hp imo but after that you need something like the arrows
cheers danny
Any one risking a std crank for upto and over 9k are mad!! its not the strength its the harmonics caused when using these at that rev and power level..
Iv had a custom narrow journal arrows one made for my conversion under mike jennings advice and drawings..
The crank is stronger lighter and twin counter balanced to help with harmonics as well as having cross drilled big end journals...
A std crank is an awesome bit of kit to say 600-650 hp imo but after that you need something like the arrows
cheers danny
#7
Karl norris is a clever bloke for sure but he has his own ideas ..
Im not a pf troll ,i have had literally 100s of cossies and just about done every conversion for my self and others under the sun..
Been working along side joe stevens building these engines for nearly 15 years now and he was doing them for years before that..
I know tommy field well also piero (ex mountunes top engine builder)and speak to more or less everyone thats built with or played with a yb and 99% of them all agree with the long studding of a block where as karl doesnt so imo thats one big mistake so id rather not take that advice..
Everyone has their own ways for sure and unless you try different things you cant be sure it will work just like when martin did his long block conversion,everyone said it wouldnt work or last but as far as i know its one of the longest standing 700+hp engines i know of..
I agree dont listen to a troll or to many different people,go your own route and listen to someone who knows his stuff,buy the right parts once and you will have an awesome engine when mapped well..
cheers danny
Im not a pf troll ,i have had literally 100s of cossies and just about done every conversion for my self and others under the sun..
Been working along side joe stevens building these engines for nearly 15 years now and he was doing them for years before that..
I know tommy field well also piero (ex mountunes top engine builder)and speak to more or less everyone thats built with or played with a yb and 99% of them all agree with the long studding of a block where as karl doesnt so imo thats one big mistake so id rather not take that advice..
Everyone has their own ways for sure and unless you try different things you cant be sure it will work just like when martin did his long block conversion,everyone said it wouldnt work or last but as far as i know its one of the longest standing 700+hp engines i know of..
I agree dont listen to a troll or to many different people,go your own route and listen to someone who knows his stuff,buy the right parts once and you will have an awesome engine when mapped well..
cheers danny
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#8
Advanced PassionFord User
Sorry the troll comment was not directed at you, it just so happened I posted after you.
At the end of the day the kind of information the guy wants will only be known by a few people who have many years experience and knowledge, Karl being one. He is not one to shout from the rooftops about what he achieves, so as per my first post, speak to Karl Norris for the informaion you require.
At the end of the day the kind of information the guy wants will only be known by a few people who have many years experience and knowledge, Karl being one. He is not one to shout from the rooftops about what he achieves, so as per my first post, speak to Karl Norris for the informaion you require.
#9
Sorry the troll comment was not directed at you, it just so happened I posted after you.
At the end of the day the kind of information the guy wants will only be known by a few people who have many years experience and knowledge, Karl being one. He is not one to shout from the rooftops about what he achieves, so as per my first post, speak to Karl Norris for the informaion you require.
At the end of the day the kind of information the guy wants will only be known by a few people who have many years experience and knowledge, Karl being one. He is not one to shout from the rooftops about what he achieves, so as per my first post, speak to Karl Norris for the informaion you require.
I still think i can be very usefull to the guy myself though but its down to him as is everyone that chooses who to go to for advice and at the end of the day unless he is building this up him self he has to go to a tuner anyway so should always talk to them about what he wants etc..
cheers danny
#10
Boosted 122 cu in
It's not just the crank you have to think about with those rpms, piston weights will be another major thing to think about.
Last edited by TommyB; 26-05-2012 at 10:59 AM.
#12
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
#13
Thanks mate..i love to try and help and always would for anyone but as said people all have their own choices and of course need to trust their engine builder to get the best from their set ups..
cheers danny
#14
Exactly!!! the moving parts have to work in unisun with eachother..harmonics is a massive issue when running massive power out of these old 4 pots..
You need to start thinking out the box imo..
The block conversion were working on wont need to rev to 9k at 2.5 bar plus of boost to achieve 700+hp on pump fuel because of the extra capacity etc and thats a big factor..
Like martin hadlands achieved engine that was making 700 hp by just over 7k!!!
cheers danny
Last edited by 750hp escos; 26-05-2012 at 11:22 AM.
#18
Hello mate..
Yea i still have one now actually,its an ikengineering american made billet crank..
Nice bit of kit and like you say advertised at Ł1095 by ike himself..
You can find them on ebay etc..
I have an unused 80mm stroke one for sale
cheers danny
#19
Regular Contributor
i found that in ebay ..its a billet cosworth i dont know specs http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cosworth-Y...item3cc6b3b2e7
#20
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
i found that in ebay ..its a billet cosworth i dont know specs http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cosworth-Y...item3cc6b3b2e7
But way too much for me.
#21
Regular Contributor
#22
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
Well it think that was cheap. Arrow one costs about 2000€.
Who does that forged one?
#23
Regular Contributor
#24
You are not going to get very far with your 700+ bhp engine if you thing the price of that ebay crank is expensive, an Arrow crank is about Ł1800 + vat, the rods nearly Ł850 + vat per set, pistons Ł650-Ł750, block Ł2300-Ł4500 depending if you supply a block and who/what liners are used and that is only about 30% of what you will spend.
Standard crank and rods are good, but most are nearly twenty years old, would you want to trust them in a 9k rpm big horse power engine ?
Steve
Most of the ebay parts are China's finest either sold via America or Australia or directly imported, good luck.
Standard crank and rods are good, but most are nearly twenty years old, would you want to trust them in a 9k rpm big horse power engine ?
Steve
Most of the ebay parts are China's finest either sold via America or Australia or directly imported, good luck.
Last edited by steveboyslim; 26-05-2012 at 04:05 PM.
#25
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
You are not going to get very far with your 700+ bhp engine if you thing the price of that ebay crank is expensive, an Arrow crank is about Ł1800 + vat, the rods nearly Ł850 + vat per set, pistons Ł650-Ł750, block Ł2300-Ł4500 depending if you supply a block and who/what liners are used and that is only about 30% of what you will spend.
Standard crank and rods are good, but most are nearly twenty years old, would you want to trust them in a 9k rpm big horse power engine ?
Steve
Most of the ebay parts are China's finest either sold via America or Australia or directly imported
Standard crank and rods are good, but most are nearly twenty years old, would you want to trust them in a 9k rpm big horse power engine ?
Steve
Most of the ebay parts are China's finest either sold via America or Australia or directly imported
I did mean that stroke was too much for me.
#27
#28
Regular Contributor
You are not going to get very far with your 700+ bhp engine if you thing the price of that ebay crank is expensive, an Arrow crank is about Ł1800 + vat, the rods nearly Ł850 + vat per set, pistons Ł650-Ł750, block Ł2300-Ł4500 depending if you supply a block and who/what liners are used and that is only about 30% of what you will spend.
Standard crank and rods are good, but most are nearly twenty years old, would you want to trust them in a 9k rpm big horse power engine ?
Steve
Most of the ebay parts are China's finest either sold via America or Australia or directly imported, good luck.
Standard crank and rods are good, but most are nearly twenty years old, would you want to trust them in a 9k rpm big horse power engine ?
Steve
Most of the ebay parts are China's finest either sold via America or Australia or directly imported, good luck.
#29
PassionFord Regular
Yep, I've an Arrows Crank in my YB, PEC H-Section Rods and Cosworth Pistons.
Cost me a bit but should be very reliable........
My problem was I wanted to by a Std Std standard YB Crank at the time but couldn't find one that hadn't been ground or in need of a grind.
So bit the built and went the Arrows route...........I'm totally over engineered for what I want but that's what I wanted.
Best of Luck
Cost me a bit but should be very reliable........
My problem was I wanted to by a Std Std standard YB Crank at the time but couldn't find one that hadn't been ground or in need of a grind.
So bit the built and went the Arrows route...........I'm totally over engineered for what I want but that's what I wanted.
Best of Luck
#32
Regular Contributor
Thread Starter
#33
Regular Contributor
#36
Regular Contributor
maybe that helps
4340 High tensile steel
C Si Typical Analysis Mn Ni Cr Mo S P
(Ave. values %)
0.40 0.25 0.70 1.80 0.80 0.25 0.025 0.025
standards
DIN: 1.6565
34CrNiMo6
BS: ~En24
~ 817 M 40
AISI: 4340
APPLICATIONS
Components for the aircraft, automotive and general engineering industries eg.
Propeller shafts, connecting rods, gear shafts, and other automobile parts. Heavy
forgings, eg. Rotors, shafts, discs.
Forge 850-1050oC, slow furnace cool.
Normalize 850-880, air cool.
Anneal 650-700, Cool slowly in controlled furnace
Stress relieve
In the quenched and tempered condition, about 30-50oC
below the tempering temperature. Air cool.
In the annealed condition, 600-650oC. Air cool.
Harden 830-860oC, oil quench
Temper
540-680oC hold for 1 hour min. at temperature, air cool.
HEAT
TREATMENT
Nitride Suitable for both liquid and gas nitriding.
4340 High tensile steel
C Si Typical Analysis Mn Ni Cr Mo S P
(Ave. values %)
0.40 0.25 0.70 1.80 0.80 0.25 0.025 0.025
standards
DIN: 1.6565
34CrNiMo6
BS: ~En24
~ 817 M 40
AISI: 4340
APPLICATIONS
Components for the aircraft, automotive and general engineering industries eg.
Propeller shafts, connecting rods, gear shafts, and other automobile parts. Heavy
forgings, eg. Rotors, shafts, discs.
Forge 850-1050oC, slow furnace cool.
Normalize 850-880, air cool.
Anneal 650-700, Cool slowly in controlled furnace
Stress relieve
In the quenched and tempered condition, about 30-50oC
below the tempering temperature. Air cool.
In the annealed condition, 600-650oC. Air cool.
Harden 830-860oC, oil quench
Temper
540-680oC hold for 1 hour min. at temperature, air cool.
HEAT
TREATMENT
Nitride Suitable for both liquid and gas nitriding.
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