Cosworth won't start
#1
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Cosworth won't start
Hi guys , I'm in need of a bit of advice.. I have owned a 4x4 saph since 98 , it's been garaged for a couple years at a time then brought out every other summer or so.. It's not been out for 4 year but has been started regular.
I recently drove it out of garage , it started first time , I had back end jacked up and on stands whilst I changed brake pipes.
I wouldn't start again when I went to put it away ... Just turns over.. Pump is priming .. Coil is fine , and it has spark.. It was in need of a tune and to be set up properly as I beleive it was running rich, just had bigger turbo fitted 8 month ago.
Ant ideas would be a great help as I want her out soon , sun is shining
I recently drove it out of garage , it started first time , I had back end jacked up and on stands whilst I changed brake pipes.
I wouldn't start again when I went to put it away ... Just turns over.. Pump is priming .. Coil is fine , and it has spark.. It was in need of a tune and to be set up properly as I beleive it was running rich, just had bigger turbo fitted 8 month ago.
Ant ideas would be a great help as I want her out soon , sun is shining
#3
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Had plugs out and cleaned , slightly black but rubbed clean with paper cloth.. I'll try starting it again tomorrow with throttle open , strange though it's stated straight off the key everytime before. Cheers mate
#4
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put the plugs in the in the oven on max temp for 20mins
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Correct 2WD spare wheel well, 4x4 is inside car, 3DR is nil!
Back to OP, look toward your CTS or at the least check the connector is seated correctly, if these go out of range or open circuit they run rich.
Also a MAP problem will cause a similar issue, although the L8 your car will be equipped with may be able to perform calculations for 'substitute' values for these problems better than the older versions.
Martin
Back to OP, look toward your CTS or at the least check the connector is seated correctly, if these go out of range or open circuit they run rich.
Also a MAP problem will cause a similar issue, although the L8 your car will be equipped with may be able to perform calculations for 'substitute' values for these problems better than the older versions.
Martin
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I would remove and clean all connectors under the bonnet then check clearances on all sensors as first port of call as something might have got disturbed. Usual port of call is the cutoff switch if been hammering on car, but as it primes ok then that should be ruled out
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Thanks Daz and Martin ..
On with cleaning connectors up now .. Took dizzy cap off rotor and dust cover out and it looks a bit shitty inside dizzy ( rusty and full of crap )
Get back to cleaning this up.. The joys of leaving them stand in garage for long periods
On with cleaning connectors up now .. Took dizzy cap off rotor and dust cover out and it looks a bit shitty inside dizzy ( rusty and full of crap )
Get back to cleaning this up.. The joys of leaving them stand in garage for long periods
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After new dizzy .. Cps and phase sensor .. Still won't start .. All gaps checked and correct , coil changed . Ht leads changed .. Still won't fire..
Gets stressed hit ignition amp with spanner now it fires up but is tapping rather loud
Gets stressed hit ignition amp with spanner now it fires up but is tapping rather loud
#21
mmmm
well it now sounds like you have none or indeed very little oil in the head . It should idle if the ignition amp is working correctly. Not starting an investigation but it sounds like you had cold and even damp storage . If you have good oil level your now going to have to check reasons for that blockage . But don't let it run with no oil in the head take the cover off and have a look for fresh warm oil . It sounds like it needs an in-depth re-commissioning .
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Car Is idling fine now .. Oil level is ok . Noise is only low .. Maybe one sticky follower.. Dizzy was very slightly out poss knocking timing out .. Would this cause noise
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