Ade

I've tried soaking it in WD40 with no luck, the car just acts the same if its plugged in or not.... stalling for the first 5 minutes of running.

Where's the best place to get a new one?

Ade

Maybe not Ford.... £360

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

These were copies on Ebay, (i.e. not OE Weber) the feedback for the seller was good IIRC, the price was around £70.

That or if you can source a old Fiat, Lancia etc as certain models used the same management.

Have you tried applying power directly to the old one? Sometimes this can free them.

Martin

HBS

http://shop.grahamgoode.com/engine-sensors-21561-c.asp

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

WD40 is far from ideal to clean them with, when the solvent evaporates it leaves a grease like residue, which makes them stick.

best off cleaned with carb cleaner to remove any carbon and oil deposits, then apply a liberal coat of thin oil like 3 in 1

Ade

Cheers for that link.
Tried a factors today who phoned round all their suppliers and nothing could be sourced.

Now wondering if perhaps the wiring/ECU is at fault? As nothing at all is happening with it. Guess should check this before shelling out....

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

Idle control is mainly related to Temperature and Throttle Position, so i would check those first.

Ade

Any advice on how to test/check this problem would be appreciated....

Car cuts out when anything other than fully warmed up.
Unplugging the ISCV makes do difference whatsoever at any temp as it seems to be doing nothing.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

I cleaned mine out with brake cleaner then put it in a tub of brake FLUID to lub it.Mines been spot on ever since.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

check to see if you have any power and a earth at the iscv.

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

Easiest way to test is pull the ISCV out and leave it connected. Turn the ignition on - the ECU cycles the valve briefly, you'll see the piston move. If it doesn't move, it's either gummed up or not getting any power.

It's powered by the fuel pump relay, and switched (earthed) by the ECU, so check for continuity between the negative pin on the multiplug and pin 16 on the ECU plug.

fraser9764

iTrader: (3)

pull the boot and insulation back on top of the plug, mine had snapped one of the wires clean off on my old engine/loom

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

2WD or 4x4?

In either case it involves checking the values of the CTS and TPS, but on the latter they differ by the way of operation.

Check for +12V at the connector (It's permantely live WITH the engine running) or as I say putting power straight to it should open it fully.

Tbh there isn't alot that can go wrong with them!

Martin

Ade

Checked the ISCV connector and its got an earth with both the ignition on and off, but no power at all when on or off.
Wires look undamaged as far as I can see under the black plastic sleeve on that section of the loom.

Any ideas where to go next with this?

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

if its a YB, then the ISCV shares a common power feed with the Amal valve, so check if that has power on ign,

if not then the feed may well have been cut at the fuel pump relay area, so just probe out the power feed and give it a 12v ign feed.

Ade

Yeah 2WD YB Saph...

Doesn't have an amal valve, running an aftermarket boost controller.

How does the ISCV work anyway? I always thought it was a switch basically, but if its only connection is a power and earth I'm a bit lost on how it works (and what it does!)

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

It is earth controlled by the ECU, and should have an ign live, this maybe from the same feed as the fuel pump, so check it has power with the engine running,

just on ign you may find it has no power, because the fuel pump will prime and turn off.

Its functiion is simply to increase idle speed when commanded to do so, the base idle should be held on the Throttle body base idle screw, when hot the ISCV should be closed.

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

It a solenoid, so in a way, a kind of switch, like in a relay - when it's activated the piston is pulsed open and shut so that air's allowed to bypass the throttle butterfly, increasing the idle speed.

When the piston's in its closed position, the only air passing the butterfly is the amount determined by the butterfly's static adjustment, ie, enough to let the engine idle at 850rpm.

To control idle speed, all the ECU does is vary the length of the "open" pulses, ie, the amount of time it shorts the earth.

Ade

Right cool.... so when needed it'll kill the earth and then it'll pop out therefore adjusting/limiting the airflow?

I'll test for power again with the engine running when I'm back with the car...

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

As said above it's controlled by PWM, the ECU modulates the earth to open the valve by the desired amount. It has a live feed.

If you do check for power to ISCV do it with the engine running, otherwise as said you can get thrown down a false path thinking there is no power, as on ignition it will only have power for the duration of the pump prime. With the engine running it SHOULD have a permanent feed.

Martin

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

Yep - the default position for the valve is closed (it only has two positions: open and shut, hence the PWM), that's why when they're gummed up the car will be hard to start - there's loads of fuel going in, but not enough air. The ECU shorts the valve's earth to open it.

gaz4x4cos

sorry to hi jack , i have a idle related problem which has appeared .

a few days back i had my airfilter box off to give k&n element a clean , since i put back together and it may just be a coincidence my car idles at about 1100 rpm not the 850 it was b4 and there is no difference whether valve plugged in or not , before i messed with filter when i unplugged iscv it would drop to base idle which was set at 850ish . The base idle screw will not adjust down any more but will increase idle if turned other way .

also used differnet super unleaded from esso not shell but don't think that would matter although i'm back using shell just incase .

any ideas , its a 4x4 btw and it smells like its overfuelling when just pottering round , runs and pulls fine apart from this .


anything i can check , it'll be weekend before i get near it again .

thanks in advance

Gaz .

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Somehow you have introduced an air leak, this is the ONLY thing that can increase speed. Spray WD40 sparingly round the plenum area with it running, when you hear a change in speed this is where the leak will be.

Martin

Ade

Right, tried with the engine running and it has power!

So I'm guessing it can only be two things.... ISCV stuck or an ECU fault?
I'm banking on the simpler of the two obviously......

S.Hannah

Ade. What plugs are you running in her.?

This is kind of what happened to me when i was running standard ford plugs

I changed them to iridium plugs and it stopped completley.

Its worth a try m8.

if you need a set to try i have a few sets you can play with.

Regards, Stephen.

Also , Thanks for my Saph pics. they are awesome. Ill speak to you soon friend.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

As I say if you apply power to the valve it should open fully, if it dosen't then the valve is faulty.

Martin

ossie cossie

lots of interesting info here. will bookmarkthis thread. Just in case.

gaz4x4cos

nothing is apparemt everythin is tight and not leaking round the plenum , only thing that i could see was the pipe which goes from the std breather to airbox was not sitting right and i looked like a slight mist had formed around it after a run but this is just oil vapour right ? shouldn't affect idle cos should it ?

cheers

gaz

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Yes the pipe coming from the "Kidney box" is the breather. Remove the ISCV and confirm the valve is actually closed as it may have got jammed open and let me know what you find...

Martin

gaz4x4cos

it must have been the iscv stuck or gunked up , had iscv off soaked it with brake cleaner and wacked 12v across to make sure it was working and it was , its gone back to as previous , when i unplug it drops down to base idle .

hopefully won't have any more problems before it comes of the road for winter jobs to be done .

thanks
gaz

Ade

Got a used one from Aly @ MJ Racing..... All sorted! The old one was just totally dead!