robbo9006

Spec.
New respray.G3 ,waxed and glazed.
New engine forged CP ,h beam rods.
Engine in and reconditioned box.
Black leather interior mint.

Plumbing need finishing and electrics slightly.
I need links and local help to finish.
Any help would be appreciated to make her run.
Any sat morning advice to make her complete would be good.
I am plumbing her up slowly but am a enthusiast and have not done a cosworth.
I wan't her to run quickly but would like some advice to finish but better a cosworth veteran, would sort this car out really quickly.
There is cash to the right man as well.
The car is nearly finished but need a little inhouse practical help.
I will have her finished at moter sports developments but would like to get her running before she goes for the final tune.

dazzle740

iTrader: (1)

what exactly is there still to do on it mate ?

robbo9006

well the engine is in with gearbox attached.
Its the rest of the plumbing and some electrics.
The engine has been put in then basicly the rest to finish.
Thankyou.
Have a look if your passing Fulwood.
St Annes is close.
Saturday mornings are free.

robbo9006

Here is a pic of the engine bay.
There is stuff to do but am on with plumbing her up at the moment.
The good news is i have been reading the rebuild pdf of the car tonight.
It is a step bye step guide to the car.

robbo9006

Well i have done loads to this.
All the electrics are done.
All i need is the bottem hose from the rad .(the one with the pipe that comes of it and attaches to the water pump and bottem of rad tube.
Two intercooler pipes.
The one from the Tb to the intercooler.
The one from the tubo to the intercooler.
The timing needs doing very important.
Auxilary belts putting in place .(-alternater is in.
Well the more i do the nearer it's getting.
I need to get a turbo water pipe re welded -wich is happening on monday -i can reconect the turbo then.
I filled the gearbox today,connected the electric connection to the gearbox ,fitted the exhaust and loads of other jobs.
All the jobs are small to complete and i think i am nearly there.

R4N SS

iTrader: (6)

nice one mate - get some pics up

robbo9006

I hadn't really got into the car but as soon as i got a little time its virtually finished.
Amal valve linked into actuater,turbo and fresh air.
HT leads joining distributer cap ,thanks Lee again.
Oil in and out done into turbo.
Water in and out done ,Clarke in Preston excellent welding ,cheers.
One water pipe to be sourced extra as its a 4 x 4 head so it comes over the front of the engine and grows for the header port.
Vacumme of plenum sorted.
One to 3 bar sensor,one to fuel regulater and one to dump valve and t-piece into the pressure gauge.
The alternater had the wrong adjuster ear so i source a new one of my spare.
Exhaust done ,turbo done,
Bought two intercooler pipes and have to buy a couple of other pipes.
Its nearly there.
I think it is technically finished.
I have all the knowledge to physically complete for initial start up.
I do need a few pipes ect and timing to do but i have read up on it.
The crank pulley notch.
The distributer notch.
The cams pointing to each other.

There is a question.
There is talk of the oil pump needing aligning.
What do i do to do this?
I have a few pics but nothing special.
I will do this next.

robbo9006

Just random pics

robbo9006

2 More pics.
They are just random and what was on the car.
I think i will take some more on the day we start here up even if we have faces of disapointment.

robbo9006

Well here is the latest pics.
I have a to do list ,i will put it up.
Its just down to a few more Ł finding and then all will be running.

robbo9006

The engine is in and all is complete.
Not saying its going to run just yet.
I am still looking for the starter wire.
I used a remote from the battery for the starter moter.
I turned her over but without turning the key.Doh
There is a black and blue wire that feeds the ignition coil.
I believe its the same that remotes the starter moter but the lead to the starter moter is missing.
There is a splice were the wire could come from.
There was no spark.
And the fuel pump was not working.
Also there was a list of electrical problems.
Wrong car pic and that hunk isn't me its Carl.
1 rear lighting badly earthed nearside.
2 rear lighting comes on with ignition offside
3 the rear heated winscreen light comes on when the light switch is on.
4 and some unknown wires yellow just tapped up
5 The fusebox underneath has some self joined wires that need understanding.
I have a disc with the workshop manuals but the computer with a disc drive is away.
I will keep on going but it looks like monday now.
I will try and get the comp back so i can see whats on the disc.
Once i get some wiring diagrams i will soon sort things.

robbo9006

bump.
I have read loads since last night.pdf manuals and alot of no spark car won't start stuff.
I have a prob with the rear wiring that includes the fuel pump and some fuze box soldering to do.
I need some more help with the coil wiring and the starter wire is still MIA.
I dont want to start live wiring the fuel pump and coil /starter as this will make things untidy.
Once i tidy the wiring up i am sure this will be the start of along problem ironing out process .
I have the ford starting problem pdf on my desktop ,breakout box ect.
Just to have the car physically wired is the first step.
Any help on the coil wire and the starter ,previous advice hasn't cleared matters and i need to dig alittle more.
Starter wire of nearside chassis leg pics ect would be good.

robbo9006

Could someone draw an arrow to the starter wire.
I have a blue and black wire going to my coil.
It goes to 12v when the key is fully turned like turning the car over.
This is what i need to remote the starter moter.
There is a splice in the wire but no wire coming of.
If i put a connecter in the wire and took a wire to the starter would this sort this problem out.
so the coil positive wire would also go to the starter moter remote.
Thankyou
the rest of the car is nealy finished no .
I will get some pictures up soon.

robbo9006

robbo9006

starter moter and oil switch now fixed.
Fuel pump works but fuel return was leaking and easily snapped of ,so its being welded today.
will do a bit on the sensors and see if i can get a spark today.
also the ecu is going for a check early next week.

Rsmat

iTrader: (2)

Cool stuff mate... You going in the right direction keep it up..

cameron2

Where in fulwood you at mate?

robbo9006

I thought i best get some pics up to show all the good work that has been done.
Nearly there only a spark away.

robbo9006

Hope these are some good pics.
The leather seats are really smart and the door cards are mint.
I have to fit the petrol tank and then can start seeing what turns up next.
Regards Craig

robbo9006

The starter wire was wired with a cap on it that went to the coil.
I wired it to the starter and found a black wire that now feeds the coil.
So click 3 feeds the starter and click 2 on the ignition feeds the coil.
The coil has a green wire going to the ignition amp and the rev clock.
hopefully this is correct.
I have a spark at the distributer.
Going to wire a loop wire on my alternater to the positive one.
Next is to get my petrol tank back and fuel pump doing its job.
Its all set up just needs a couple of end sorting.
The lights work and i have found a couple of mystery wires that once they find a home means even more kit will work.
The rest will be miny projects in spring easy to do pick a haynes manuel schematic on a sunny day and make sure all the items on it work correctly

robbo9006

Picked fuel tank up tonight.
First light fuel tank on and bosch 044 pump on.
Finish wiring of the relay for the pump.
I have found 4 wires that need a home .
petrol in and turn the key.
check the ht leads are correct.
The cps has been checked and the dizzy gap.
I will put the stereo in.
Then wire any items that don't work like the windows ect.
I will also try and start the car.
I think it will fire.
I am not sure the turbo actuater on the amal valve will work.
I don't no how this works.
I will soon learn in the next few days.

robbo9006

I found this on ere n am working through it.
First one was the red n brown.
19,20 no power so i am going to go into a relay check.
were is the relay that feeds terminal 19,20 on the ecu sierra cosworth please?
I will look at my haynes as well.

BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS

NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)

1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at
least 2V.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at
least 1.5 - 2V.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)

Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed.
However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.

Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously.

If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.

The pump is ok to run continuously.

robbo9006

well tommorrow if the ecu/fuel relay are the 2 yellow ones behind the dash i am going to check the feeds and if they arn't correct wire the black wire to them ect.
This should get my ecu and fuel working .
I am doing the direct feed relay for the fuel and might have a look at the fans.
I am going to get the fuel relay working well as it runs the amal and iasv.

robbo9006

I checked all of the above on replacement ecu.
All was as a above should be.
12v at the injectors ect.
The lot.
There is a fuel supply.
The only on i don't have is the wire from the amp to the coil but there is a 12v feed to the coil direct.
I need to put a 12v red loop wire on my alternater +.
there was no spark at the plug but a spark going into the ht lead on the distributer.
There is alot of amal valve clicking.
The ecu relay was working earlier but stopped so i put a wire from the positive to the red to pin 20 on the ecu.
The car has just jumped anothe hurdle .
I am really closing in on it now.
Questions are how do i get the spark at the plug and am i ok not connecting the amp to the coil.
If i need to what is the wire as my wiring is diffrent to the diagram?
I had 5 mins and went and wired up the 3rd in from the left black ignition amp to the coil.
Still no spark

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Got your PM re this thread...

What you have is a spark at the LT lead going into the coil (central connection on dizzy), the HT (High Tension) are the leads that connect to the spark plugs, so the ignition system is fine, as is the management!

But what you don't have is a spark at the plugs? If so you need to first confirm the plugs and leads are ok, and also check the rotor arm.

No you won't have any ignition without the amp, which is why I am kind of confused as to how you have a spark, maybe you are confusing the amp with something else, the amp for reference is on the nearside inner wing.

Amal clicking is usually a bad TPS calibration, unplug the TPS as a test and see if it stops, this is assuming you have all the other aspects connected correctly, sensors etc?

Martin

robbo9006

I checked the dizzy cap and corrected the leads they were all wrong but correct now.
The timing was checked at tdc .
I wired a black/yellow wire from the amp 4th from the left to the coil were a 12v was already connected.
i will turn it over with correct ht wired.
i will re try the start tommorow.
so close but so far.
I checked the central ht wire and it soparked on initial key turn but not on turn over.

robbo9006

Another day spent.
Found the original positive coil leads ,one from the amp and one from the switched positive.
they are wired correctly now.
i think the car had a owd 12v warmstart system from ignition switch 3.
that turnover wire now runs my starter moter.


The car is wired correctly.
I have a spark at the ht lead from the coils but no spark at the plugs .
I bought a new distributer arm.
The plugs are dry.
I made a mistake yesterday n wired awrong wire from the amp and caused a wire to melt.
If i have fried the amp ,i will have to get a new one.

AJC

iTrader: (6)

Hi I'm in Preston. I have a spare amp. I can help you the best I can if need be.

My numbers 07738 445649. Cheers

robbo9006

Phone contact made cheers.
Thankyou

robbo9006

I put a new rotar arm on and sorted the wiring better.
The ht leads are new but are a poo design and fall of the cap easy n don't fit the spark plugs correctly so i have ordered a new set.
i am going to reset the cps as it was 0.5 mm to 0.8mm.
O n check without the distributer cap of if the rotar arm turns.
The leads on the distributer are set up correct.
Any other ideas of things i need to check.

robbo9006

List of items i am checking today.
CPS gap 0.8
plugs 0.6
fuel feed is under the fuel pressure regulater and i believe the regulater should be after the fuel feed from reading on here.
have a spare map sensor
have a spare ecu without collins chipincase its fried.
change phase sensor
obtain noid lights
check earth on ecu 19/20 pins
clean injectors
check idle wire is not swopped with a injector wire.

robbo9006

Ive done all the above still nothing.
I even think my spark at the ht lead has gone.
I am wtg for fresh amp and ht leads and then its going to a auto sparky.
Just wanted to get it going as i am of work.
I can get a soldering iron n tidy all the joins up i have in the mean time ect.
I'll get my own back once its running.
I'll book it in for a track day .lol

robbo9006

I had a mix up with the black/yellow wire that i now believe could be the origional starter wire.i will check in the morn.
and the one that came out of the amp.
i took the dash out and started to check all wires.
All seemed good untill i opened the fuse box and a whole relay was missing III .
what colour relay is III ?
Also the black n yellow one that came out of the amp joined up with the black ones from switched live and the black ones on the yellow relays.
I wired this one correctly again.
certainly getting there.
I need to wire this to the coil as well.
i have a green that goes to the coil

Had a quick read n all my exitement is over the finding of windscreen wiper relay.
i will rewire my car better in the morn.
i have the alternater wire to do still.
well there is still a good chance of getting her going the morn.
I had given up today but the show still goes on.
I want to sort my oil pressure gauge ,i have the switch working but this will help me later when the car is running.
.
brown to earth
two blacks to ecu
yellow black to yellow petrol pump relays ect n switched live.
i now have a blue n black redundant that is on key turn 3
and a purple and black one redundant that ran with the starter wire from under the dash.
Not bad going as least i have leads to go at in the morn.
My dash is out but hey ho.

robbo9006

I have a spark on switching the engine at the plug.
The injecters have 12v but the plugs are dry.
I am wtg phase sensor n plugleads.
Then i will need a amp and the ecu checking.
Therehas been talk of a immobilizer factory,could this be stopping my spark and injecters pulsing?

robbo9006

Do some saffs have a ignition position 3 as well as 2 going to the coil.
Mine doesn't start and i am thinking this needs ruling out as the prob.
There was always a wire there that was position 3 and wired for the coil as factory.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Boy your having fun with this iv replyed to your PM

are you CPS and phase sensor plugs in the right plugs ???

wots funny is one min you say you have a spark and the next on spark . check them 2 plugs as there next to each uver

robbo9006

well have a big earth on the gearbox to chassis now.
I have sent my 2 ecu's to moter sport development yesterday for assessment.
I am carring on soldering old connections to tidy things up in the meantime n a couple of extra clips here n there.

robbo9006

Right good news ,i sent it to Moter Sport Development BLackpool Ltd and they fixed it real quick ,there were a few minor faults ,that i had missed.i had tooth combed them electrics time n time again.i think it was all dizzy,cap n ht lead stuff.Well thankyou msd you did excellent and i will be back for my chip when i get my greans.Thankyou

robbo9006

During the week a electrician finished the rewire for the old connecters on the rear lights and fixed the problem with the front lights.
All is ready for its mot.well , i think he has to put a stop switch in and new horn but that will be done.
The mechanic my mate fixed the inlet plenum refitted the iavc and turned up the TB air screw to let the car idle at 900rpm.
Then he filled it up with some good fuel and that is all i no as yet.
There was some smoke coming out of the rear but this could be initial burn off.
The car has only done 1 mile.
I am thinking the car will be built up to temperature and any problems assessed.
I also believe the car will be sent for MOT this week and all work done.
The car should be on the road this weekend with alarm fitted.
I will tax her as soon as the mot is done and then the ironing out of the snags will begin.
I think after putting some better boost clamps on and the radiater wire fix the car should be fairly reliable

robbo9006

Thanks for getting the car going.MSD
Unfortunatly i had her MOT'd and fixed the leaking inlet and just had the breathers to fit wich are a Bailey set up.
I set of to kirkham roundabout on the M55 and she ,i think blew a piston.
I am fixing her at the moment but am concerned to why such a thing happened ,with Forged pistons as well.
It was F102DKJ sierra saph 2wd.
came and went on a flat bed.
I now about lean mixtures and detonation and am sure this is what has caused it.
What can i do to stop it again ,as its a ball ache rebuilding the engine every 21 mile.
I am suggesting a rebuild and get it to MSD for a good tune and finish of of any bits you notice.
Please advize .regards Craig