What oil would you use in this engine ?
13-07-2011, 08:46 AM
#1
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What oil would you use in this engine ?
Sierra Sapphire Cosworth 2WD - MSD stage 3
Original 205 block bottom end with approx 170.000 miles on it.
Has the annyoing piston slap on start up but dissapears 98% when warmed up.
It doesn't use water/coolant but does eat a bit of oil.... but that is, ofcourse, common on a YBB with some miles on it.
Head has been refurbished a while back and has only covered approx 8-10.000 miles.
The bottom end is up for a rebuild this winter, but the engine is due for a oil change now.
Have been running on Castrol Edge Sport 10w-60, but just wondering what other people are running and what would be ideal for an engine like this, that obviously has seen alot of and miles on it.
Is Castrol 10w-60 the best oil to use on a worn but "ok" engine ? ... or is there perhaps a better choice ?
Cheers and thanks for any input!
Original 205 block bottom end with approx 170.000 miles on it.
Has the annyoing piston slap on start up but dissapears 98% when warmed up.
It doesn't use water/coolant but does eat a bit of oil.... but that is, ofcourse, common on a YBB with some miles on it.
Head has been refurbished a while back and has only covered approx 8-10.000 miles.
The bottom end is up for a rebuild this winter, but the engine is due for a oil change now.
Have been running on Castrol Edge Sport 10w-60, but just wondering what other people are running and what would be ideal for an engine like this, that obviously has seen alot of and miles on it.
Is Castrol 10w-60 the best oil to use on a worn but "ok" engine ? ... or is there perhaps a better choice ?
Cheers and thanks for any input!
Last edited by ThomasV; 13-07-2011 at 08:48 AM.
13-07-2011, 02:34 PM
#7
I'd certainly use a 60 weight oil, with that mileage, good to see another high miler on here, just rebuilt mine after 200,973 miles, still on original size shells on big ends and mains, and even the new build uses the original 1988, 200,000 mile old thrusts on the crank, still only 4 thou float limit for new is 4-10 thou!!
tabetha
tabetha
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14-07-2011, 07:00 AM
#10
14-07-2011, 07:16 AM
#11
The usual stuff gaskets, pistons(1st oversize), shells, although even these looked ace, the crank didn't even really need a polish, one journal had a minute score on it.
I put in a new std pinto oil pump, Ł24, the same one the machine shop/engine builders supply and use in their race engines, though they inspect every internally after stripping it, and measuring all tolerances then sending back any duff ones.
I used a group a HG, cometic gaskets and loctite 5910 sealant where needed, I used std mahle pistons with cut out, cost was Ł45 for all 16 pockets, I think they were glyco shells but can't swear to it as forgotten, but they were std pinto shells not HD ones, been used for years without any trouble, same type as came out of the engine anyway.
The guy I use has been building engines for around 55 years, when at age 14 he built his first class race winning engine, many many wins since, soon to be making their own con rods so they can keep quality in house, has two engine dynos, 1 rolling road.
I use a ARP stud and nut kit, std cams ie over 200K miles and still going perfect, std original rods, alcon 6 paddle plate and cover.
Just having monumental problems with shit quality of mocal sandwich plate at the mo, and supply of it to start with, frankly mocal/think automotive are a dire company to deal with, never again, even had to mod the one I got hold of, as the oil filter wouldn't go on, it was touching the hex cover/nut of the built in stat, had to grind this down first on one corner, seriously not impressed with this piece of crap design a 2 year old could do better, that was after I removed the SWARF out of the brand new never used plate to start with!!
Oh I also use a baffled sump, when a lotus F1 race engineer saw it on me mates units bench he asked about it, and said what I was thinking it was that deep it didn't need all this big wing crap, just simple baffle plates with a 1/2" hole in the centre of each, working perfect.
I used for the last 25-30,000 miles std comma 20W50 mineral oil though due to high oil consumption, it was the oil rings that let go in mine in the end seemingly overnight, the wear was such that it nearly didn't take the wear out on 1st oversize, touch and go, got a tiny wear spot at the base of the bore, but not anywhere near thrust line so ok.
tabetha
I put in a new std pinto oil pump, Ł24, the same one the machine shop/engine builders supply and use in their race engines, though they inspect every internally after stripping it, and measuring all tolerances then sending back any duff ones.
I used a group a HG, cometic gaskets and loctite 5910 sealant where needed, I used std mahle pistons with cut out, cost was Ł45 for all 16 pockets, I think they were glyco shells but can't swear to it as forgotten, but they were std pinto shells not HD ones, been used for years without any trouble, same type as came out of the engine anyway.
The guy I use has been building engines for around 55 years, when at age 14 he built his first class race winning engine, many many wins since, soon to be making their own con rods so they can keep quality in house, has two engine dynos, 1 rolling road.
I use a ARP stud and nut kit, std cams ie over 200K miles and still going perfect, std original rods, alcon 6 paddle plate and cover.
Just having monumental problems with shit quality of mocal sandwich plate at the mo, and supply of it to start with, frankly mocal/think automotive are a dire company to deal with, never again, even had to mod the one I got hold of, as the oil filter wouldn't go on, it was touching the hex cover/nut of the built in stat, had to grind this down first on one corner, seriously not impressed with this piece of crap design a 2 year old could do better, that was after I removed the SWARF out of the brand new never used plate to start with!!
Oh I also use a baffled sump, when a lotus F1 race engineer saw it on me mates units bench he asked about it, and said what I was thinking it was that deep it didn't need all this big wing crap, just simple baffle plates with a 1/2" hole in the centre of each, working perfect.
I used for the last 25-30,000 miles std comma 20W50 mineral oil though due to high oil consumption, it was the oil rings that let go in mine in the end seemingly overnight, the wear was such that it nearly didn't take the wear out on 1st oversize, touch and go, got a tiny wear spot at the base of the bore, but not anywhere near thrust line so ok.
tabetha
Last edited by tabetha; 14-07-2011 at 07:20 AM.
14-07-2011, 08:49 PM
#13
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Thanks, Tabetha .... will get my bottom end rebuild in the beginning of next year, so good to know what will be involved.
Have just ordered 5L of Mobil 1 10w-60 ... will try it out.
Have just ordered 5L of Mobil 1 10w-60 ... will try it out.
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