jamie956

Im at the point in a project im doing to start on my engine rebuild, have a few ideas of what i think but wanted a second opion to see if im doing something stupid or missing a trick, looking for a nice punchy 330-350bhp heres what im planing.

205 block 0.5mm overbore & decked flat
Wisco pistons
Crank has .25 mains & big ends
hp oil pump
Bottom end balanced lighten flywheel
Ap paddle std cover
Head skimed new seats & guides
ARP head stud con rod and fly wheel bolts
Double valve springs (not sure if needed)
steel multi layer head gasket as in the kit from gaskets direct
t34 .48 2wd manifold
Airtec 60mm intercooler and 60mm rad
wasted spark & 3bar map
turbo smart e boost2
044 pump

Not sure on injectors choise or ecu as i only have a L1 at the mo.

sierrsteve1980

iTrader: (7)

I have been told greens are good for that sort of power, they all seem to run them on a stage 3 setup.

jamie956

Really not sure started out thinking greens then 55 siemens but seen a few post with SCS recomending blues work well

tabetha

Any injector will work well so long as it flows enough juice, personally I think there is a lot of discrepancy about dark green flow rates, ie 0 280 150 803's, the last set I had on the rollers were at around 85% duty at 300bhp(crank), at std rail pressure, but have seen a set do 377 repeatedly, not sure what rail pressure was used there though, the set that flowed 300 had just been cleaned though which usually lowers the flow rate.
Blues would be a safer bet, or greys, which despite some not being able to can be mapped perfectly and run 100% perfectly with good emissions and mpg.
My engine with 35 miles on it for example just went through mot test with 0.56% CO, 88PPM, NOT on the waste of time closed loop either, no cat etc, this was on greys,
T3-34.48, etc.
As to your list I would not use a HP oil pump, it isn't needed, that's assuming you can get a new one that doesn't blow apart like the many genuine crap cosworth ones do.
I would use a alcon 6 paddle plate these tend to be much more progressive than AP, add to this a hydraulic clutch, it totally transforms the car.
I would wait and see what the head needs, if anything over about 40-50,000 it's likely to need all new guides, and certainly 8 exhaust valves and seats, as well as skim.
If using std cams which are perfect for the intended power then std single valve springs are perfect, mine still uses the 200,973 miles old springs!!
Avoid a metal HG at all costs, totally unecessary at this power level, and the good old "group a" being composite will seal perfectly and better than a steel, but having a skimmed block as well would be perfectly ok to use a metal if you want, just not needed.
Turbo is fine, similar to what I have, I used a T3 compressor housing with T34 inducer, to lose even more lag, mine starts boosting at 1400rpm and is full boost by about 2400rpm.
The cooler and rad will be fine, I use airtec, bloody heavy gauge metal but don't break unlike some big name ones that cost many times more!!
You will need a 3 bar map to read high enough boost to make the power from this turbo, wasted spark isn't needed, and assuming you are considering keeping the std range ecu's, look at all the costs involved first, as some are a rip off imo from msd, when compared with a after market ecu that will do all and more than the msd converted ones, for less money, and have much more in the way of features, that's why I changed.
A std ignition system just with a different coil will cope perfectly at a huge price reduction.
Boost control can be carried out by the std ecu perfectly, but even better imo with most after market ecu's, as mine does.
Looking at your location, you have one of the very best engine machine shops in the country on your doorstep.
My old engine had done a fully authenticated 200,973 miles before the oil pressure switch let go, and with a oil loss/consumption of 1L every 10-15 miles, I decided on rebuild, and so I did.
My oil pump is a selected oil pump from machinists, same as used on their warranted engines and cost was £24.
I had my flywheel lightened from 8.9KG, which was std 2wd weight, to 5.8 with slotting, it made a massive difference to off boost driving, just on running in map at mo.
I used a alcon 6 paddle plate and alcon cover, with arp rod/f'wheel bolts, already had stud nut kit.
My crank is still on std sizes, and the new engine still uses the original 200K old thrusts, and still only 4 thou thrust.
I used mahle pistons, with cutouts to future proof any cam change, cost of all 16 cuts was £45.
tabetha