Dearo

iTrader: (5)

I need to make a new fan wiring loom for my 3 door.

Has anyone got an idiots wiring diagram so I can make my own loom. Must have an overide switch which I can operate at any time from inside the car.

Cheers Peeps

Simmo

iTrader: (20)

This is a diagram i've had knocking about for a while, similar sort of thing to the fuel pump wiring mod...

tabetha

Edit you only need ONE live 30A, from battery to relay input(30) then just tee from here it coil winding, no point in two wires live from battery.
Be sure to put a FUSE as close to the battery as possible to feed the relay.
tabetha

Dearo

iTrader: (5)

Seen this fan loom on Ebay, is this item any good/value for money ???

Dearo

iTrader: (5)

Oops, forgot to mention that the cost is £65

tabetha

It would cost around £8-£10 to diy so up to you if worth it or not ?
tabetha

Dearo

iTrader: (5)

Yeah I think it's a no brainer there Tabs !

Where's the best place to buy the components from ?? Don't suppose you've got a shopping list you could forward to me ??

Cheers

Dearo

Jimboxr4x4

I assume this is the radiator thermo switch and the other blue and brown wires are for the fan switch.



If so can I just connect a switch across the two wires from the thermo switch to bypass it for an overridge switch? One of the wires goes to +12ve at the battery and the other goes off into a loom behind the battery tray.

Cheers

tabetha

polevolt.co.uk or vehiclewiringproducts
Yes that is the thermo switch, if you used a heavy enough switch switch you could do this, BUT the problem with the fans are that they draw too much current and for too long for the std wiring, melting the fuse position in the fusebox and causing damage lime blown headgaskets if you do not spot it in time.
The loom pictured is fine, but I can get pro built m'sport ones for a lot less, using same materials, but diy is easy, all I would say is use a waterproof relay, if living under bonnet.
tabetha

Moonstone Steve.

iTrader: (2)

Tabetha, can you get a price for a fan loom and fuel pump loom for a 2wd saph with grpA pump

Steve

reisskahn

Slightly off topic but could someone please tell me how the original factory fans work/are wired up as my ones stop working?

Where does the original fuse be for them, under the glove box or in the central fuse box and how would i know if the sensor on the bottom of the rad is knackered?

(its for a 1992 saph)

cheers

tabetha

Moonstone Steve, I will see the man in the week, and ask, reisskahn the original fan fuse is in the fusebox under bonnet ie the main fusebox.
If they have stopped working look first for a melted fuse position or a blown fuse.
The only way to test the rad fan switch is to let it get up to temperature so that it should switch on, however first it would be wise to test the fan circuit by briding a wire across the two pin connector as this will then put the fans on, well it should all being well!!
tabetha

reisskahn

tabetha: There seems to be no fuse in the main box for the fans. Ive checked me owners manual aswell theres not a mention of it. Only related kinda fuse in the main box is for the heater blower which is fine along side the other fuses no burnt or blown ones etc....

But next to the heater blower fuse theres a spare empty one which in the owners manual says Spare Fuse. So if i put a fuse in there the drivers side fan kicks in for some reason and makes a very strange noise.....

So any idea which fuse it should be in the main box or if it isnt there why not?

Also if i bridge a wire direct to the fan from the battery to check if it works where do i/or how to hook them to the actull fan?

thanks

tabetha

I am going by what others have said, re the main fuse for the cooling fans being in the fusebox, mine was already rewired very badly!!
The fact that when you put a fuse in the "spare" position shows it is the fan circuit, the strange noise may be the fan is buggered, but at least you have found the circuit, maybe the other fan doesn't work.
Very odd it being the fan circuit and no fuse in there, very naughty as well, but a rewire sorts all these problems anyway, and safely too.
As for trying the fans, you will see a flat plug containing two wires that are round bullet terminals, the plug is polarised so that it only goes on one way, just follow wire from fan along from fan you will soon find it about 8"-12" away, on the fan side just put a live and an earth on these terminals and both fans should run, the polarity is not important for this as they are dc motors, they will just run opposite way.
tabetha

AndyPen

iTrader: (24)

The end fuse is the standard fans one if that's any help? Should be 25 but have seen 30s in many cars... part of the problem imo.

tabetha

The fan will still draw the same amount of current regardless of the fuse rating, so long as it doesn't blow due to to high a demand a 30 will not cause problems where a 25 wouldn't.
The problem is the stupid way ford did the cooling where the fans try to get 9C lower temps, which is below that which the thermostat is trying to get it to reach, the span is way too much 3C or 4C is more normal and totally fine.
tabetha

Jimboxr4x4

Is this connector on the right of the picture into the radiator the thermo switch for the fan please?

tabetha

That's the kiddie, the thermo fan switch.
tabetha

xr4man

i wired my fans up the same way tabetha's schematic shows. except i used two relays and two fuses and ran separate circuits for each fan.

yeah i know i over engineer everything. i also use 4 relays for my headlights.

DaveCrack

iTrader: (1)

Just bought a fan rewire loom and wonder where I can get the 5V live feed it needs somewhere near the radiator!? Thanks for any advice!!!

RS500/364

I would have wired it as two fuses two relays just to make sure if one draws more current or not working !