Fuel lines and pump rewire
09-01-2008, 07:18 PM
#1
Fuel lines and pump rewire
I have got a fuel leak some where on my saph, problem is i cant seem to trace it. i no its coming from the middle to back of the car. I know its not the tank as i changed that when i got the car.
Anyway, im considering changing the lines whilst its off the road as they arnt looking there best anyway.
My question is, do they have to be solid ? like the originals ? if not where can i get other types and where should i take it from and too ?
One other thing, where do you rewire the pump too ? i mean how far back if that makes sence !
cheers
Anyway, im considering changing the lines whilst its off the road as they arnt looking there best anyway.
My question is, do they have to be solid ? like the originals ? if not where can i get other types and where should i take it from and too ?
One other thing, where do you rewire the pump too ? i mean how far back if that makes sence !
cheers
10-01-2008, 05:05 AM
#2
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Hi ya can get braided hoses to go from back to front but not sure where ya can buy them, ya can also still use the solid type.
To rewire the pump you are best to take a live feed straight from the battery with a 40 amp inline fuse, Then fit a 40 amp relay in the boot, use the 2 orig wires on pump as switching to the relay.
Then ya will av full battery volts at the pump at all times.
If ya check back on here someone posted pics about it.
To rewire the pump you are best to take a live feed straight from the battery with a 40 amp inline fuse, Then fit a 40 amp relay in the boot, use the 2 orig wires on pump as switching to the relay.
Then ya will av full battery volts at the pump at all times.
If ya check back on here someone posted pics about it.
10-01-2008, 04:28 PM
#5
Jesus I have heard some crap in my time but the "fuel pump locking out at 18amps", keep taking the drugs!!
A 15 amp fuse per orignial, is no good with mods such as listed under your car.
A std pump uses 13 amps at full load, and WILL run the risk of the fuse popping if driven at full whack, but if you don't mind this and the pump stopping and causing it to go mega lean go ahead.
For other people, the FUSE RATING BEARS ABSOLUTELY NO RELATIONSHIP TO THE POWER CONSUMED BY ANY DEVICE PLACED UPON IT.
The inportant thing is to have a fuse, of lesser rating than the cable, in case of shorting.
Fuel, pumps do not lock up, they CANNOT PHYSICALLY BE "FED" WITH TOO MUCH AMPERAGE, they consume what they consume.
tabetha
A 15 amp fuse per orignial, is no good with mods such as listed under your car.
A std pump uses 13 amps at full load, and WILL run the risk of the fuse popping if driven at full whack, but if you don't mind this and the pump stopping and causing it to go mega lean go ahead.
For other people, the FUSE RATING BEARS ABSOLUTELY NO RELATIONSHIP TO THE POWER CONSUMED BY ANY DEVICE PLACED UPON IT.
The inportant thing is to have a fuse, of lesser rating than the cable, in case of shorting.
Fuel, pumps do not lock up, they CANNOT PHYSICALLY BE "FED" WITH TOO MUCH AMPERAGE, they consume what they consume.
tabetha
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