putting head back on lol
#1
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putting head back on lol
ive got everything in a pile on the floor and i dunno where to begin lol but they say the only way to learn is by doing so...
do i connect the inlet and turbo and manifold to the head before it goes in the car then drop it all on??
how do i get the timing right??
whats the torque settings for the head bolts??
and whats the odds of me actually fitting this and it running??
cheers lol
do i connect the inlet and turbo and manifold to the head before it goes in the car then drop it all on??
how do i get the timing right??
whats the torque settings for the head bolts??
and whats the odds of me actually fitting this and it running??
cheers lol
#2
Passion for Fords!
iTrader: (13)
get your self a workshop manual
its a fairly simple job,but could be easily done wrong!
it is easier to put the manifolds on first, but its personnal preferecnce really,
timing is quite simple, two cam shafts mark up with each other, tdc on the cossie is the far side of the lump on the bottom pulley next to the groove...dont time it up on the groove though! and the dizzy needs to have the rotor arm aligned with the marks on the dizzy casing.
this is all very very basic, get your self a manual and go from there.
its a fairly simple job,but could be easily done wrong!
it is easier to put the manifolds on first, but its personnal preferecnce really,
timing is quite simple, two cam shafts mark up with each other, tdc on the cossie is the far side of the lump on the bottom pulley next to the groove...dont time it up on the groove though! and the dizzy needs to have the rotor arm aligned with the marks on the dizzy casing.
this is all very very basic, get your self a manual and go from there.
#3
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ahi thought it looked easier to put the manifolds on out of the car just wasnt sure whether they would stop me puttin other bits back together after the head is on, the turbo is already connected to the exhaust manifold will that get in the way?? guess my next question has to be where do i get a workshop manual from lol im using pictures of the engine to piece it all back together atm lol
cheers mate nice one
cheers mate nice one
#4
As Jtech says, it is very basic but needs to be done right.
Another thing if using a group a gasket(up to 400bhp or so), leave it to settle for at least an hour before retorquing, finishing at 120 lb ft.
Defo put on the exhaust manifold first, as they arte a complete shit to get ot two of the bolts/nuts, this is all I do but I leave everything else off, as it is lighter that way but your choice.
Check and recheck marks are still aligned before turning over on the starter, do by hand first, 3 or 4 turns.
Dizzy(shaft) cutout must be dead centre to the scribe line on the dizzy body, as if slightly out it will miss the phase signal and chronically overfuel!!
tabetha
Another thing if using a group a gasket(up to 400bhp or so), leave it to settle for at least an hour before retorquing, finishing at 120 lb ft.
Defo put on the exhaust manifold first, as they arte a complete shit to get ot two of the bolts/nuts, this is all I do but I leave everything else off, as it is lighter that way but your choice.
Check and recheck marks are still aligned before turning over on the starter, do by hand first, 3 or 4 turns.
Dizzy(shaft) cutout must be dead centre to the scribe line on the dizzy body, as if slightly out it will miss the phase signal and chronically overfuel!!
tabetha
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yeah its a group A gasket so if i finish at 120 lb ft where do i start?? lol and what order do i do them up in??
it wont be a problem putting the exhaust manifold on with the turbo already on there will it??
sorry for all the questions i just dont wanna get it wrong lol
it wont be a problem putting the exhaust manifold on with the turbo already on there will it??
sorry for all the questions i just dont wanna get it wrong lol
#7
Get yourself a copy of the FORD WORKSHOP MANUAL(CD), it has all the settings etc on it.
It has tightening order, but basically just pinto anyway, be very careful not to overtighten cam caps, as some have had bodgers strip the threads, there is a torque setting use it, even if it means buying a new lower reading torque wrench.
Just take your time and think about the order you are putting things back in so you don't have to go back and undo things to fit other bits!!
Be careful with the turbo coolant feed/return pipes as it is not uncommon for the silver solder on these to break, as it is such a crap job by ford on them to start with, I always redo mine with a mass of silver solder, where the ring part meets the pipe.
tabetha
It has tightening order, but basically just pinto anyway, be very careful not to overtighten cam caps, as some have had bodgers strip the threads, there is a torque setting use it, even if it means buying a new lower reading torque wrench.
Just take your time and think about the order you are putting things back in so you don't have to go back and undo things to fit other bits!!
Be careful with the turbo coolant feed/return pipes as it is not uncommon for the silver solder on these to break, as it is such a crap job by ford on them to start with, I always redo mine with a mass of silver solder, where the ring part meets the pipe.
tabetha
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#8
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right well we got bored yesterday and attempted it and i think its almost done!!
just got the timing to do really... ive got the 2 arrows on the cogs on the head facing each other as said above... there is a cog i can turn that moves that sensor round underneath the dizzy cap but i can turn that cog easily by hand so i assume its the wrong one??
only problem i have now is the ht leads arent connected to the dizzy cap bit or the car so i dont know what order to reconnect them?? they are numbered on the engine side but does it go 1,2,3,4 from the back of the engine forward or the other way or is it 1,3,2,4 lol
and then where do they connect on the dizzy cap??
its been an experience so far but next time im payin someone else to do it lol
just got the timing to do really... ive got the 2 arrows on the cogs on the head facing each other as said above... there is a cog i can turn that moves that sensor round underneath the dizzy cap but i can turn that cog easily by hand so i assume its the wrong one??
only problem i have now is the ht leads arent connected to the dizzy cap bit or the car so i dont know what order to reconnect them?? they are numbered on the engine side but does it go 1,2,3,4 from the back of the engine forward or the other way or is it 1,3,2,4 lol
and then where do they connect on the dizzy cap??
its been an experience so far but next time im payin someone else to do it lol
#9
The FIRING order is 1342, with just a few exceptions all 4 cylinder are this.
The cylinder numbers are, front to rear, 1 at front ending with 4 at rear.
Dizzy cap is it angled cap ?, if so it points backwards towards bulkhead, and standing at front of car looking down at cap so terminals are pointing away from you it is,
nearest engine, cylinder 4 plug lead, nest it is cylinder 2 plug lead, next terminal will be lower down than the other four and is king lead from ignition coil, then cylinder 1 plug lead, then finally the last one nearest the nearside inner wing is cylindeer 3 plug lead.
tabetha
The cylinder numbers are, front to rear, 1 at front ending with 4 at rear.
Dizzy cap is it angled cap ?, if so it points backwards towards bulkhead, and standing at front of car looking down at cap so terminals are pointing away from you it is,
nearest engine, cylinder 4 plug lead, nest it is cylinder 2 plug lead, next terminal will be lower down than the other four and is king lead from ignition coil, then cylinder 1 plug lead, then finally the last one nearest the nearside inner wing is cylindeer 3 plug lead.
tabetha
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right ive got the timing done but it wont start i got petrol shooting out the fuel rail at an injector connection like a fountain lol so methinks i need another one of those first
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