Mk2_2dr_2L_Escy

Hi,

I am wondering if anyone has had issues with the headgasket leaking oil on their cossies ?

I have a freshly built 2wd engine and i have a burton power purchased grp A gasket (victor reinz i think was the brand) The block was decked and the head was skimmed. I am also using ARP Headstuds.

I have an oil leak that i simply cannot find, and its a fairly decent one at that. I thought it was coming from the side of the block where the turbo oil feed / oil pressure switch / gauge come from, although after changing every part twice and trying almost every kind of pipe sealing product i can find i think i can rule it out.

Oil seems to be puddling around the web where the dipstick tube goes into the block.. there is no way that oil could be blowing out there right ? as it wouldnt be pressurized ?

I am now noticing some oil that is starting to pool down near the dizzy base aswell and the gasket does appear to be damp.. i cant think where else oil could be coming from, it doesnt appear to be coming from the cam cover gasket.

there is oil sprayed on to the coolant temp sensor and on the top of the bellhousing aswell i have noticed.

The oil travels down the rear head stud on that side correct ? and there is also a gallery on that same side at the front of the head ?

All signs are pointing to the gasket.. but i have previously had the head off to search for this leak when it was minor and everything checked out, i had my engine builder check the deck and the head for flatness again and that gasket looked new so i have used it again with some hylomar gasket goo and there wasnt no further significant leaking until i changed from the running in oil to a thicker oil.

any thoughts or advice on this matter would be very much appreciated, as i am stumped.

Thanks,

Damion.

tabetha

You have an engine builder ?, does he work for a TOY company ?
You do NOT use an old head gasket, which is made of compressable material, if you do you have leaks, sorry you know that.
Dipsticks tubes can leak around them, Hylomar is absolutely UNSUITABLE for the area you put it.
You CANNOT tell a blocks flatness by looking at it.
It neeeds a NEW headgasket, you also NEED to SETTLE the head gasket before putting everything else on.
The VR group a gasket is ace up to about 400bhp.
Some common leak areas are under the cam caps(front) where a lot don't but should put sealant.
Hylomar is not that good, everyone thinks it is as it is tied up with RR.
LOCTITE 5910/5900 is light years ahead in performance, ok 3/4 times the price but it works, first time every time.
tabetha

Mk2_2dr_2L_Escy

yeah i do know that i should not be re using the head gasket, but due to the fact that it didnt have any signs of impressions on it and the engine was only running for 15mins max i was told it would be ok to use it again.

The head and block were checked with a straight edge and a feeler gauge, i thought that was an appropriate method of checking ?

I am not sure why it would have leaked in the first place though ?

It is only stage 3 spec.. so what gasket is recomended for me to use ? Should i try the same type again ?

Thanks.

LINCOLN

iTrader: (1)

Yo,

You may need`a head skim. Fixed my issues.

Mk2_2dr_2L_Escy

Hi Lincoln,

I will definately get it checked again maybe by someone else this time.

What were your issues ?

Cheers,
Damion.

tabetha

It just is not worth the hassle of reusing a old headgasket, whether it has impressions or not.
For stage 3 the group a is the best bet, but they do NEED to be SETTLED first.
Indeed you MAY need head skim but almost defintely NOT when using this gasket, just a VERY good clean up scrape clean.
Were the threads oiled when fitting the gasket ?, did you allow it to settle ?, what torque did you do it to ?, did you take out the ARP studs and tap out the holes to make sure they were clean all the way down/get the crud out, did you reseat the studs ?
tabetha

Mk2_2dr_2L_Escy

Hi,

I didnt tap out the thread, but i did oil them and i followed this procedure..

...First put in the studs in the block, do NOT tighten them with tools, only by hand.
Then put the head on, and tighten the top like this:
40nm all the way arround, then 80nm, then check again for 80nm til all the nuts are 80nm, have a break for about half an hour, then do 120nm, then check again for 120
Warm the engine up to normal then switch the engine off and let it cool down to zero.
Then start from 1, loosen the nut half a turn and tighten to 120 again, then to number 2, loosen a half turn etc etc.
When your done, check them all over again..

Is that the correct way to do it ? What do you mean by waiting for the gasket to settle ? is that just the periods between the different tightening torques ? or does it have to be left for a certain amount of time before starting ?

Thanks.

AndyPen

iTrader: (24)

Hi guys - am I missing something here - I would never use any goo with a headgasket???

dakar

iTrader: (1)

me neither and im no expert

tabetha

I always do the first stages as said then allow an hour AT LEAST to settle, then torque to 120LB FT, leave an hour and recheck, these are so troublesome an area everyone has thier own idea so some will do it differently.
The point about the group a is it is FIBROUS so will to a degree fill in any little imperfections in the surface.
I use gasket stuff Loctite 5910/5900 on the cam caps and ends of the cam cover gasket.
tabetha

Tony Ryan

Are you still using a std breather /firetrap ? Im guessing youre not but just in case you are , its very common for oil leaks to appear in this area as you get cranckcase pressure blown out the std equipment and up the side of the engine .

bud-weis

if you have exhausted all avenues and you still have the leak, then blank off the two, or at least one oil feed in the block face nearest the bulkhead (leaving the front one as it is)

The gasket won't be the cause
The bolts may be the cause
Head distortion may be the cause