RST_mark

Hey all cossie owners, am hoping you can tell me if the price tag on a cossie i am interested in is about right or overpriced......

Currently own a S2 RST so will be my first cossie but want one to keep for a few years before i move up to an escort cosworth.

The car i'm going to look at is local and is a 3dr on a D plate, 66k, white, old mot's history etc.

Looks very clean, good paintwork, first impressions good and is a well looked after car etc. Has a bit of rust under bottom or rear windscreen rubber, bubble on lower passenger door and slight markings under rain gutter on roof. Has original arch liners etc, owned by a rich bloke, had it a year and only done 10 miles in it!

Stage 1 engine, alloy rad and cooler, samcos, oil breather, air filter, exhaust

Mint refurbed wheels, fairly low on konis. Interior looks very clean, cracked dash tho.

Think it's a fairly genuine car, looks good underneath, new rear callipers and brakes for mot.

Spoke to him today and he's asking £7500 ono which i'm not sure if is about right or a little high due the the few little repairs that need to be made.

Any oppions or advice on this would be great along with if you think this would be a good buy for me going from a RST.... how people who've had rst's then gone to cossies have found the cars in comparisson

Many thanks, Mark

saphcossie427

What i would do is find out how much it would cost to do the the repairs and try to meet the seller in the middle £7500 doesn't sound to bad if the mileage
can be verified but have a good look around as it seems you can't sell cossie's at the moment unless you sell for peanuts.I have a very high spec saph (400+bhp) the engine build cost £7200 alone not to mention all the other stuff and i get offers of £6000 look on fleabay theres loads of cossie's nearing the end of the auction with no bids or reserve not met.
Cossie's are nothing like rst's cossie's drink fuel like a scott drinks whiskey an when they go wrong (all the time) there expensive to repair even if you can do the work yourself the parts ain't cheap,have a good think before you jump but when there going good there great cars puts a smile on my face everytime i caine it

RST_mark

Thanks for the advice mate, much appreciated. Anyone else on the pricing of this 3dr?

tabetha

Way overpriced, considering the rust lurking underneath.
Rust is like an iceberg, 10% on show the rest hidden, but will be eating away merrily at the metal all the time.
Rust can of course be fixed, but NOT cheaply, I would at the very least go over it with a fine tooth comb to weed out any more rusty bits, especially sills, rear arches, arch liners are good, at trapping rust, you need it up on the ramps to get a decent look.
If you are serious and do not have the confidence/experience, then get an AA/RAC inspection first, tell the guy you will givbe him an agreed price subject to a satisfactory inspection.
Mileage is not everything remember the car is 21 years old it will NOT be rust free for ever, you will find when you start using it things will start to go wrong, as they are on "borrowed time".
It is a personal thing of course but I can't stick 3 doors and think they are overpriced, so tread carefully.
tabetha

rabmc

Hmm who knows pal , mines is going for 7K and think its worth it , but its stage 3 with the right bits, and some rs500 bits so its all down to who is willing to pay the price

But rust is impossible to avoid on a 20 year old ford, so dont be too hasty, as a toatall mint and rust free example will easily do 9k

Its a ford they all rust here and there , but obviously have a good check to see if its anythingn that will cost you in the pocket and will hurt you come mot time

good luck , they are getting scarce now and especially good ones with original panels

RST_mark

Thanks for your comments... my original idea was to look into picking up a fairly tidy saff around 4kish (like the flint grey one in the for sale area at the moment) and pottering around with this for a few years till i move up to an escort cosworth. They don't quite have the same appeal but at the same time if i was unfortunate enough to prang it i wouldn't be so devestated and i also would be encouraged to use it more often. What are your views?

The 3dr is local and looks very nice that's what attracted me to it.

daz1968

I would go 3 door but I am biased as have one myself, but areas to check for if looking for rust are the rear arches and back of sills under the kit, and also lift up the rear seat and look under there, also lift the plugs under the seat and look inside the chassis as this is a common problem, underneath check round the seat mountings and the chassis rails from underneath, another common area is the strut tops around where they join the inner wings and the rear of the inner wings close to the bulkhead, another common place is under the rubber seal in the boot. I am lucky as have owned it since 1992 and have never taken it out in the winter so have avoided all salt, but I have seen some very bad ones the last couple of years that look fine until looking closely. so I would say buyer beware as bodywork is not cheap, but if you get a good one you won't regret it as they are great cars to drive, but would say that any 2wd engine with 60k on the clock is getting close to needing a rebuild as the piston design was not good on the early ones.

tabetha

I don't get all this original panel crap, I would not even look at a 20 year old car with original panels, mine had original panels, first thing I did was rip them off and replace them and the rust they had underneath, cost me around £3500 in bodywork alone, but I knnow it has another 20 years to go rust wise, so do not have to worry about that.
tabetha