Is it possible..............
#1
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Is it possible..............
..............to change the oil pump in a 4x4 by using a hoist to support the engine, popping the shafts out and dropping the front crossmember and sump with all bits still attached or am i just being lazy?
Also is it worth while doing the big end bearings while i'm at it?
Cheers,
Pete.
Also is it worth while doing the big end bearings while i'm at it?
Cheers,
Pete.
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it can be down by raising car up and support chassis
fit gearbox hoist to engine lifting eyes (located on the cylinder head)
lossen front driveshaft nuts and ball-joint bolts pop both shafts outta the hubs then be carefull and remove driveshafts from the diff & sump side (oh drain the sump & front diff first)
then you need to undo the steering rack knuckle and rack ball-joints from hub (also drain rack fluid)
then with the engine supported lossen the engine mount nuts (2 nuts either side) and the 2 bolts holding each mounts in place
this should now leave you with the front cross member to remove which is held in by 2 bolts either side as you undo these you should see it start to drop with the rack still attached and the engine mounts and TCA (if you not removed these already)
Once the cross member is removed you will have access to remove the sump & front diff the diff is held in bt a couple of bolts and bracing brackets this then slides out from the sump it will need alittle help doing this i found a pry bar and give it a nudge one way then the next it wil come out then undo all the bolts on the sump there are many once you have done this it will most likely need a tap with a rubber mallet to break the mating seal surface then if all goes well you should now have access to the bottom end
there might be some info i missed out but most stuff is obvious
if you are in doubt about any bearing being worn meassure them up and double check everything and if in doubt replace with new (new big-end bolts should always be fitted)
fit gearbox hoist to engine lifting eyes (located on the cylinder head)
lossen front driveshaft nuts and ball-joint bolts pop both shafts outta the hubs then be carefull and remove driveshafts from the diff & sump side (oh drain the sump & front diff first)
then you need to undo the steering rack knuckle and rack ball-joints from hub (also drain rack fluid)
then with the engine supported lossen the engine mount nuts (2 nuts either side) and the 2 bolts holding each mounts in place
this should now leave you with the front cross member to remove which is held in by 2 bolts either side as you undo these you should see it start to drop with the rack still attached and the engine mounts and TCA (if you not removed these already)
Once the cross member is removed you will have access to remove the sump & front diff the diff is held in bt a couple of bolts and bracing brackets this then slides out from the sump it will need alittle help doing this i found a pry bar and give it a nudge one way then the next it wil come out then undo all the bolts on the sump there are many once you have done this it will most likely need a tap with a rubber mallet to break the mating seal surface then if all goes well you should now have access to the bottom end
there might be some info i missed out but most stuff is obvious
if you are in doubt about any bearing being worn meassure them up and double check everything and if in doubt replace with new (new big-end bolts should always be fitted)
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A five minute job then
Thanks Silky, i thought there might have been a slightly easier solution
Better set aside a full weekend for that!
Pete.
Thanks Silky, i thought there might have been a slightly easier solution
Better set aside a full weekend for that!
Pete.
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Do you know what the original size of the crank big and main end journals so that i can determine what size of bearings i need as i'm sure it has been previously ground?
Cheers,
Pete.
Cheers,
Pete.
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Originally Posted by J9BBY
Do you know what the original size of the crank big and main end journals so that i can determine what size of bearings i need as i'm sure it has been previously ground?
Cheers,
Pete.
Cheers,
Pete.
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Originally Posted by J9BBY
Is it just a case of take out old, put in new or is it more complicated than that?
Cheers.
Cheers.
start by removing 1 bigend at a time and carefully undo each rod bolt the end cap will need teased off if in doubt take the bigend shells to a engineering and have him check them