Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

Greetings all,

Today I have been working on the Sapphire track car that a mate and I are thinking of racing later this year. We're new to the Cosworth but most things make sense. I have a few questions:

We have a pair of open holes on our turbo that I think are for water cooling but they are not connected at the moment. The threaded hole just above the T of "TURBO" in this picture.

What are these holes for, should they be connected and what to?

I went to Halfords to get an oil filter and bought the wrong one. I now know that I need a 71mm version. Where should I order one online?

And the oil breather - a mysterious chrome can with three connectors at the top and one at the bottom. Anyway, two connectors are used, one connector is capped at the end of a black pipe and one connector is open. If anyone can tell me more about this I'd be grateful. Pic:


Thanks all,


Charlie

The car:

Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

We also have a small oil leak from a plate that seperates the two halves of the turbo. In this pic it is the plate above the S of "COAST" and I think we have oil leaking from it onto the pipes below. Is there a seal in there or is the plate just bolted on? Do I just need to tighten the bolts on this plate or will I need to take the whole assembly apart?


The leak is light enough that we are not concerned about it at the moment.

Thanks,


Charlie

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

The spare threaded hole on the turbo is indeed for water cooling. As standard, water should be fed to the turbo from a take-off pipe on the thermostat housing into the side of the turbo closest to the engine, and return out of the turbo directly back to the header tank via the smallish bore hose that on your car is already connected to something.

Running without water cooling will not cause your turbo any problems, so you can leave it as it is if you don't want the hassle of sourcing the correct metal water pipes/banjo bolts/etc.

If the oil filter mounts directly onto the block (via the modine oil/water cooler) without an alloy arm that relocates the filter to behind the engine mount, then you need a standard 2wd oil filter. If you do have the alloy arm, then you need a 4x4 oil filter. Get one direct from your local Ford dealer, or try ebay.

The breather can will have 4 inlets/outlets. The top 2 inlets will connect to either side of the block. There will be a return pipe to feed excess oil back to the sump, and the final outlet will be to relieve combustion gases blown past the piston rings and probably not connect to anything.

If the turbo has been freshly rebuilt, don't worry about a minor oil leak from this area, it may well seal with use. If the bolts can be tightened, do so.

tabetha

2wd oil filter from ford is EFL298.
tabetha

Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the replies. What's the difference between water cooling the turbo or not? Is the extra cooling useful? The engine is mostly standard. I guess it will be OK. Should I be thinking about water cooling the tubo if I uprate the engine?

On the oil breather there are only two connected. Does anybody recognise the breather I have in the engine bay? I'm interested to find out which connector is which because I guess the vent to atmosphere should be collected for track use so I will need to run a pipe to a catch can.

Charlie

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

Don't worry about the water pipes on a T series turbo - not fitting them doesn't seem to have a detrimental effect.

You really need 3 connections on the breather can to be connected. The top 2 should be connected to each side of the block - one to the flametrap under the inlet manifold (or a stub if the flametrap has been removed), and the other to a fitting towards the back of the block on the turbo side. Having a breather take-off fitted to each side of the block will mean that when cornering, there will always be one pipe that isn't submerged under the oil in the sump. Any oil blown into the tank should then be returned to the sump via one of the bottom fittings on your tank - the one that already has an aeroquip style fitting on in your photo. The vent pipe, if the breather has been made properly, shouldn't need a pipe on it, but fit one if you want.

Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

OK. Thanks Jon. I have two pipes connected - one on each side of the block as you describe. These are connect one at the bottom and one at the top. But the second of the three connectors at the top of the can is connected to a black pipe that is capped at the end (and sitting near the front right headlight. The third vents to atmosphere.

Charlie

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

The pipes from each side of the block need to feed into 2 of the fittings at the top of the can. The capped off pipe you've got to the headlight area should be fitted to the turbo side of the block


flametrap shown in the pic below - with the pipe coming out of the top



the smaller return pipe at the bottom of the can needs to go to the sump

Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

Fantastic. Thanks for all your help. I have sussed out the set-up on my oil breather and I think it's correct. The capped pipe is the vent to atmosphere. The two connections are to either side of the block and the final connector is blocked. I think it's OK as is.

I have ordered an oil filter.

On the subject of the turbo I think that a cooler turbo is a probably a more reliable turbo so I may try to water cool it in time.

Thanks again.


Charlie

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

so your breather isn't returning any oil to the sump ? not good

and the vent to atmosphere is capped ? hmmmm