air/fuel gauge installation
#1
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air/fuel gauge installation
have bought a new air/fuel gauge but not sure how to connect it properly do need a sensor in the exhaust or can it be done another way?
cheers for any help...
cheers for any help...
#3
JESUS, the LAMDA sensor is in the exhaust!!
You will need a sensor in the exhaust preferable as close as possible to the turbo so it stays nice and hot and works sooner from cold.
This then reads the amount of OXYGEN in the exhaust and converts it to a eclectical signal proportiante to the amount of OXYGEN and sends it to the AIR/FUEL ratio metre display thingymajig.
There are two types of sensor heated or non heated, might as well go heated(HEGO) as they warm up quicker and work sooner as a result.
You also get NARROW band or WIDEBAND, narrow band is the "normal" one and is fine, you will need to drill a hole in the exhaust pipe and tap a BOSS to 18X1.5mm pitch to weld in there for the sensor to fit in, then just a few basic wires and it's done.
tabetha
You will need a sensor in the exhaust preferable as close as possible to the turbo so it stays nice and hot and works sooner from cold.
This then reads the amount of OXYGEN in the exhaust and converts it to a eclectical signal proportiante to the amount of OXYGEN and sends it to the AIR/FUEL ratio metre display thingymajig.
There are two types of sensor heated or non heated, might as well go heated(HEGO) as they warm up quicker and work sooner as a result.
You also get NARROW band or WIDEBAND, narrow band is the "normal" one and is fine, you will need to drill a hole in the exhaust pipe and tap a BOSS to 18X1.5mm pitch to weld in there for the sensor to fit in, then just a few basic wires and it's done.
tabetha
#4
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air/fuel gauge installation
thanks tabetha where can i get said sensor?
this is what i thought as i couldn't see how i would get accurate readings any other way...
My fuel return seems a bit low the car is high spec'ed 25mpg on a run 20mpg if lucky around town...
low comp
wrc spec head
bd14's
t35
grey's etc...
but it is a real rush to drive after my relatively standard s2 rst
this is what i thought as i couldn't see how i would get accurate readings any other way...
My fuel return seems a bit low the car is high spec'ed 25mpg on a run 20mpg if lucky around town...
low comp
wrc spec head
bd14's
t35
grey's etc...
but it is a real rush to drive after my relatively standard s2 rst
#5
MPG for the spec is good, as you say the ONLY effective way to measure the air/fuel ratio is by the exhaust, LAMDA available through BOSCH dealers, one on here who is very good, or MSD etc.
The hard part might be the boss as the thread size is not too common, not generally a stock item anyway, might be best to go to a local engineering firm and see if they can just cut a section of solid bar drill a hole and tap it to size, if you have any problems let me know.
tabetha
The hard part might be the boss as the thread size is not too common, not generally a stock item anyway, might be best to go to a local engineering firm and see if they can just cut a section of solid bar drill a hole and tap it to size, if you have any problems let me know.
tabetha
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IMO and this is based on assuming you have a narrow band gauge, you should re sell it and get yourself a decent wide band kit, the narrow band will not really give you any information thats really any good to you. go for something like http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm or http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php
#7
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air/fuel gauge installation
No probs with engineering work a friend of mine is a qualified engineer with a full workshop in his back garden.... MOST HANDY!!!
Thanks for the advice will get a second down pipe let him do his stuff on it and then just swop them over cheers graham
Thanks for the advice will get a second down pipe let him do his stuff on it and then just swop them over cheers graham
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#9
Originally Posted by tabetha
JESUS, the LAMDA sensor is in the exhaust!!
You will need a sensor in the exhaust preferable as close as possible to the turbo so it stays nice and hot and works sooner from cold.
This then reads the amount of OXYGEN in the exhaust and converts it to a eclectical signal proportiante to the amount of OXYGEN and sends it to the AIR/FUEL ratio metre display thingymajig.
There are two types of sensor heated or non heated, might as well go heated(HEGO) as they warm up quicker and work sooner as a result.
You also get NARROW band or WIDEBAND, narrow band is the "normal" one and is fine, you will need to drill a hole in the exhaust pipe and tap a BOSS to 18X1.5mm pitch to weld in there for the sensor to fit in, then just a few basic wires and it's done.
tabetha
You will need a sensor in the exhaust preferable as close as possible to the turbo so it stays nice and hot and works sooner from cold.
This then reads the amount of OXYGEN in the exhaust and converts it to a eclectical signal proportiante to the amount of OXYGEN and sends it to the AIR/FUEL ratio metre display thingymajig.
There are two types of sensor heated or non heated, might as well go heated(HEGO) as they warm up quicker and work sooner as a result.
You also get NARROW band or WIDEBAND, narrow band is the "normal" one and is fine, you will need to drill a hole in the exhaust pipe and tap a BOSS to 18X1.5mm pitch to weld in there for the sensor to fit in, then just a few basic wires and it's done.
tabetha
The procedure you described is the correct one.
Mine is a simpler and possibly not as accurate.
It is faster though!
As for the lamda sensor yes indeed is in the exhaust but the wire comes in the engine bay, where I connected it.
Sorry for my english I can't explain it better.
#10
Sorry Kingdragon, the std one is accurate enough for readings as you use, the lamda one is NOT 14.7 like people think it is 14.66 but 14.7 is close enough not to be a probelm, max power occurs at 12:1.
I am sure your english is much better than my GREEK!!, and please accept my appologies if I sounded a bit harsh, it was not the intention!!
tabetha
I am sure your english is much better than my GREEK!!, and please accept my appologies if I sounded a bit harsh, it was not the intention!!
tabetha
#11
Originally Posted by tabetha
Sorry Kingdragon, the std one is accurate enough for readings as you use, the lamda one is NOT 14.7 like people think it is 14.66 but 14.7 is close enough not to be a probelm, max power occurs at 12:1.
I am sure your english is much better than my GREEK!!, and please accept my appologies if I sounded a bit harsh, it was not the intention!!
tabetha
I am sure your english is much better than my GREEK!!, and please accept my appologies if I sounded a bit harsh, it was not the intention!!
tabetha
It's ok. I feel happy when I can learn something from other people's advices.
I took that as an advice and not as a harsh comment and after all it was my explanation that wasn't sufficient at first.
Regards, Kingdragon
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