kevin cozzer

does any one have any tips for stopping a leaking exhaust manifold? i've already changed some of the studs for bolts as i dont know how to get studs in, 4months later it's leaking again! i dont want to risk breaking my wrists doing it every 4 months! is there an easier way to undo and do up the bolts? it's hard on the back as well as the wrists!..... shitty job! any tips would be appreciated. is it best to do from underneath the car? threadlock to stop itn happening again? and when i did it last alot of aluminium thresd material came out with the studs so i don't want to do it too many times as i can't afford to take off and send the head for helicoiling!

Ridgey

iTrader: (5)

Kevin do you have any running problems associated with the leaky exh manifold, i have a couple of studs missing as well and one has even stripped the threads in the head.

kevin cozzer

I had no problems till yesterday when it started leaking (ticking) and now i'm down on power.

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

buy a helicoil kit for about £20-25 - you can leave the head in place when you fit them to the weaker threads

the best tool I've got for the nuts is a 3/8 drive snap on universal socket - you can get to most of the nuts with one

tabetha

I found it nigh on impossible with the head on car, all can be got at apart from two if I remember right, but these two could be done with exactly the right length socket bendy etc, but a nightmare to do.
tabetha

rapidcossie

do you mean head to manifold?

cossie604

iTrader: (2)

Take the manifold off....remove old studs, clean the head up..fit a full new set of studs in place of your old studs and bolts combo...any dodgy threads get repaired...either using a helicoil type repair or the much better option of a solid insert (wurth do a kit called time-serts)..most motortrade based engineers can do this as a call out repair and it can be done with head in situ.....check manifold for trueness, if all good then refit and tighten new nut to manf. specs. Then check the condition of your turb damper...this is designed to take the weight of the turbo/manifold and exhaust system off your manifold studs.

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

that's what I assumed, because of the aluminium swarf comment

cossie604

iTrader: (2)

As above.

kevin cozzer

Yeah i meant the manifold to head. i recently bought a turbo damper repair kit, i've put it on but have no and cant find any info on setting up the damper? does anyone have an opinion on the stainless steel tubular replacement manifolds you can get from xs power?

tabetha

The damper is just set with a certain gap in the space between the TWO DISC SPRINGS at 0.4mm.
Also tighten spring so there is a gap of 25mm from edge of spring retainer to edge of damper block.
tabetha

kevin cozzer

do you have a picture of what a properly set up one looks like?

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

see here - Workshop Manual - page 745 (of 993 pages - 28MB big)

http://www.siipicossu.com/manuaaleja...p%20Manual.pdf

pete241

Iv found they are short,ie off shelf say Burtons,
they need to lock out bottom of head thred,some wear on ebay got longer ones and thred locked then in.
its a ass job but the only propper is to get it all off the head makeing sure you got good threads.