Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

I have a manual on CD so will consult that but does anyone have any tips on a cambelt change on a 2WD Sapphire Cosworth?

And what cambelt should I use? The car is a track car. Should I be looking at a standard Ford item or is there a better, uprated belt available?

Thanks all,


Charlie

Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

I think I may have answered a part of my question:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RS-Cosworth-Gp...QQcmdZViewItem

A Group A cambelt and tensioner from Matt Lewis motorsport. Recommended?

Charlie

tabetha

I buy all my stuff from Matt Lewis, top man IMO, never had a problem always happy with advice etc.
I always wonder about uprated belts, are they trying to say the std one is no good ?, the load on the belt is the same, but they presumably must be better material, so worth paying a bit more for extra peace of mind.
Just make sure you turn the engine over by hand a few times first, before starting just in case.
tabetha

Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

Turn over the engine by hand to ensure that I have everything lined up?

I haven't yet consulted the manual. Is there a method by which you can lock the position of the cams and crankshaft to change the belt? Or will I need to align TDC and the cam positions?

This is the same question asked in a different way:

Can I change the cam belt without having to set the timing and re-align the cam and crank positions?

Thanks,


Charlie

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

Only by ensuring all the pulleys (crank and cam) are locked and don't move - either way, it should be checked after fitting to make sure you don't bend any valves. If in doubt, get somewhere to do it for you, only takes an hour or two, and you get the benefit of having someone else to blame if it goes tits up - new YB innards are expensive!

Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

No. I'll do it myself. Once I've learnt how to do it it'll be easier next time I do it.

I just wondered if anybody had some practical tips. I'll tackle the job next weekend.

Charlie

davidnormanuk

Apparently the bottom pulleys are a right pain to get off and alot of people break them. It may be worth investing in a puller.

Cheers
Dave

tabetha

2wd sapphys as far as I can tell do not have puller holes.
My pulley just fell off!, seriously the pulley could be pulled off EASILY with one finger.
As the engine is at rest nothiong should move but it would be suicide not to check afterwards, it may be easier if you want for peace of mind to lock pulleys with a wedge of SOFTWOOD behind each, but even if you were to turn the cams it would not cause harm the most they could do is touch the pistons wit the valves and then all you do is turn it back and line it up again.
The reason for turning by hand is to allow tensioner/crank pulley to guide belt perfectly central before setting tension.
If someone can't do a belt on a cossie they would not even be allowed to check the air pressure in my tyres!!!
As engines go they are a doddle, just people are scared of them, just done the bulkhead/steering bush in mine and the inner part was only resting on the edge of the hole!!, the moron that did it did not even slide the metal clip to the bottom to hold it in place.
Good luck with your belt change, just make sure you double check everything, and it will be fine.
tabetha

rabmc

Done mine recently , and was a coont to get crank pulley off serious effort and brute force went into it and eventially it turned , as said make sure you turn over by hand once correctly lined up as i didnt do so and bent 2 valves and i only use gates belts

tabetha

If they do prove to be tight, drift out WOODRUFF KEY and lap on with some fine grinding paste, clean and then refit with coppaslip, as the hole is tapered, don't overtighten they do not need it.
tabetha

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

that's a good idea - I'll have to remember that one

the crank pulley bolt does need to be torqued up to spec - I've heard of a couple of instances on cossies where the woodruff key slot in the crank has worn and caused timing issues as the bolt had worked loose

tabetha

jon@work, You are quite correct, I was referring to the give it an extra tighten brigade or those without a torque wrench, can't remember what the torque is off hand but is obviously suffecient.
tabetha

plynchy

The torque setting on the crank pulley is quite high.

For removing the pulley you'll need to take out the radiator & intercooler, I remove all the pipes too just for access.

Get a dcnet 2-3 legged puller if you can (Sykes Pickavant etc) and put a small amount of tension on the pulley then gently warm it with a blow torch, apply a bit more tension etc etc and it will slide off eventually.

They are like hens teeth second hand now, so if you find one, buy it, just in case.

All the pulleys have timing marks on, pretty easy job really.

black saph

it is possible to change the belt with the bottom pulley still on just bend back the tin lip that keeps the belt alligned change the belt and bend it back again sounds rough but saves breaking the pulley or disturbing woodruf key

tabetha

My rad and intercooler are still in car and it(PULLEY) came off no problem.
tabetha

plynchy

You obviously didn't have to use a puller then, lucky you.

tabetha

I don't know about the lucky bit, maybe with the pulley but not with the *anker* that were there before me and managed to remove so much metal from the valve heads that I needed to buy 16 more, and 16 guides, and a new turbo, god cossies are a pain but worth it ?
Oh well stops me buying so many drugs I suppose.
Really frustrating to think ford made some of these so tight!!, I was under the impression the puller to which you reffered was the small round one that draws the pulley off, is it only the escos that has these holes ?
tabetha

plynchy

Not sure, the Saff pulley does have holes, but I imagine you're talking Ford only tools rather than a universal puller.

As for are they worth it? No. I just keep mine cos i've had it nearly 12 years and it's not worth selling. Try to spend as little as poss on it now, the £4k that it got in 2002 was enough IMO.