04 Mondeo TDC1 Engine problems
23-06-2015, 02:19 PM
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04 Mondeo TDC1 Engine problems
Hi all,
Hoping for some advice on this one. We bought an 04 Mondeo TDC1 130bhp about three years ago and have had a really bad run of things. It now has 100,000 on the clock and is still playing up.
Driving in France three Summers ago we got a split in the turbo pipe and had to limp the thing home with much stress.
About 18 months ago we ended up having the injectors changed (plus a clean out of the tank etc and new fuel filter) for about £1200 in total.
A year ago the clutch and DMF were changed for about a £800.
That is not to include the replacement engine bolt and gear box bolt that went with time, and the suspension arm that went when some numpty drove into us one evening when the car was parked.
Anyway from the last couple of months the car has been decidedly lumpy on idle, and getting worse. Was idling at around 1000 rpm and shaking around like a wet dog. Took it back to the diesel specialists that did the injectors and they said they were okay. They wanted to do more investigating, but suggested the DMF might be the issue, so took it to the garage who had done that (they are just down the road) and this was checked, and not the issue.
So have let the guy down the road have a poke around. He tried replacing the EGR and then resetting the ECU, and for about two or three weeks life was good, until the lump idle started coming back. Took it back to him last Thursday and he got a diesel guy to quote on it. He said a bunch of sensors on the engine needed 'rebuilding' and the cost would be in the region of £550. He also reset the ECU again and the car sounded good.
This weekend we had to load up the car to spend a weekend camping with friends. On the way there the car was great. Idled at around 750rpm, but very smooth. At one point though when the revs hit 3500 in fourth the power cut and the Glow Light started flashing. This cleared when I restarted the car, and the car handled just the same as before.
On the way home, just as we came into London, the power seemed to drop again, but no glow light. Then the following day, we had trouble starting and last night it just would start. All it did was turn over and shake.
This morning - started fine, but a little lumpy on idle. Cleaned the MAF and disconnected the battery to reset ECU. Just connected and all is purring again.
Still think there might be an underlying issue though, which will come back. Checked the pipe around the EGR, and doesn't appear to be split anywhere, but there seems to be a lot of oil on the big pipe leading from the EGR, way down at the bottom. Oil in the engine was very low too, but in truth I hadn't checked that for a while. No oil under the car though, even after topping up and running for a while, just the impression of a bunch of oil around the compartment in places.
We are driving the kids to France in August again this summer and really want to avoid another bloody drama, but loathe to hand it back to the mechanic for general diagnosis (especially when he didn't even have appeared to have checked the oil! The air filter pipe was not connected to the intake pipe either and a few of the general pipes under the hood were not snapped into the mounts, so I am not massively impressed on that side either. Not sure if the guy cleaned the inlet manifold when he had it.
The car really isn't worth a great deal, but have already sunk too much into the damn thing. Any suggestions would be massively helpful!
Cheers,
Steve
Hoping for some advice on this one. We bought an 04 Mondeo TDC1 130bhp about three years ago and have had a really bad run of things. It now has 100,000 on the clock and is still playing up.
Driving in France three Summers ago we got a split in the turbo pipe and had to limp the thing home with much stress.
About 18 months ago we ended up having the injectors changed (plus a clean out of the tank etc and new fuel filter) for about £1200 in total.
A year ago the clutch and DMF were changed for about a £800.
That is not to include the replacement engine bolt and gear box bolt that went with time, and the suspension arm that went when some numpty drove into us one evening when the car was parked.
Anyway from the last couple of months the car has been decidedly lumpy on idle, and getting worse. Was idling at around 1000 rpm and shaking around like a wet dog. Took it back to the diesel specialists that did the injectors and they said they were okay. They wanted to do more investigating, but suggested the DMF might be the issue, so took it to the garage who had done that (they are just down the road) and this was checked, and not the issue.
So have let the guy down the road have a poke around. He tried replacing the EGR and then resetting the ECU, and for about two or three weeks life was good, until the lump idle started coming back. Took it back to him last Thursday and he got a diesel guy to quote on it. He said a bunch of sensors on the engine needed 'rebuilding' and the cost would be in the region of £550. He also reset the ECU again and the car sounded good.
This weekend we had to load up the car to spend a weekend camping with friends. On the way there the car was great. Idled at around 750rpm, but very smooth. At one point though when the revs hit 3500 in fourth the power cut and the Glow Light started flashing. This cleared when I restarted the car, and the car handled just the same as before.
On the way home, just as we came into London, the power seemed to drop again, but no glow light. Then the following day, we had trouble starting and last night it just would start. All it did was turn over and shake.
This morning - started fine, but a little lumpy on idle. Cleaned the MAF and disconnected the battery to reset ECU. Just connected and all is purring again.
Still think there might be an underlying issue though, which will come back. Checked the pipe around the EGR, and doesn't appear to be split anywhere, but there seems to be a lot of oil on the big pipe leading from the EGR, way down at the bottom. Oil in the engine was very low too, but in truth I hadn't checked that for a while. No oil under the car though, even after topping up and running for a while, just the impression of a bunch of oil around the compartment in places.
We are driving the kids to France in August again this summer and really want to avoid another bloody drama, but loathe to hand it back to the mechanic for general diagnosis (especially when he didn't even have appeared to have checked the oil! The air filter pipe was not connected to the intake pipe either and a few of the general pipes under the hood were not snapped into the mounts, so I am not massively impressed on that side either. Not sure if the guy cleaned the inlet manifold when he had it.
The car really isn't worth a great deal, but have already sunk too much into the damn thing. Any suggestions would be massively helpful!
Cheers,
Steve
29-06-2015, 01:04 PM
#2
The mechanic who wanted to charge you £550 to "rebuild sensors" - Never ever go to him again. He's a conman and a thief.
Secondly buy yourself a fault code reader such as this one. for less than £15 it will more than pay for itself the second you plug it into your car for the first time.
Armed with that you need not bother taking it to a garage for a diagnosis - as all they do is plug the car into their machine, and charge you handsomely for the privilege. If the engine management light (the glow pug one) has come on it will have stored a fault code - get the fault code and then Google it. If it's P0251 and P1211 sell the car on (seriously). If it's not, it will probably relate to the EGR, possibly the fuel pressure regulator, maybe the inlet metering valve - but it will hopefully help you pinpoint the problem area.
Secondly buy yourself a fault code reader such as this one. for less than £15 it will more than pay for itself the second you plug it into your car for the first time.
Armed with that you need not bother taking it to a garage for a diagnosis - as all they do is plug the car into their machine, and charge you handsomely for the privilege. If the engine management light (the glow pug one) has come on it will have stored a fault code - get the fault code and then Google it. If it's P0251 and P1211 sell the car on (seriously). If it's not, it will probably relate to the EGR, possibly the fuel pressure regulator, maybe the inlet metering valve - but it will hopefully help you pinpoint the problem area.
Last edited by DanW@FastFord; 29-06-2015 at 01:09 PM.
30-06-2015, 08:05 PM
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P0251 code!
Thanks DanW@FastFord ... I had come to a similar conclusion! I bought a bluetooth OBD2 reader from Amazon, and the thing has thrown up a P0251 error code, which I believe covers a multiple of sins from the simple to the terminal...
Have someone (different and recommended) looking at the car in a few days and am hoping for some good news!
Thanks for your input!
Steve
Have someone (different and recommended) looking at the car in a few days and am hoping for some good news!
Thanks for your input!
Steve
04-08-2015, 07:55 AM
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Hi All.
Hope you don't mind me adding my problem to this thread, we seem to share a lot of things in common!
Car is a 2003 2.0 TDCI 130BHP.
About 4 months ago I was overtaking up a hill (max load) and the car went into limp mode and the glow plug light started flashing. Switched ignition off and back on and everything was fine.
Nothing happened for 3 more months when the glow plug light came on again (but no stall) So I replaced the fuel filter, cleaned I let manifold and blocked EGR off.
Everything was fine for another month until yesterday when it cut out (not limp mode, actually died). It raised two fault codes: P0251 & P1211.
Did a leek off test and I'm not sure what to make of the results. Cylinder 2 seems to have leeked more, but do you think it is enough to loose pressure? It did seem to be a bit foamy compared to the other cylinders.
I should add that performance and MPG are absolutely spot on.
Any ideas? Thanks
10-08-2015, 11:05 AM
#6
They're the worst codes to get - as they are not specific, but relate to fuelling. For some people the Inlet Metering Valve has cured it, others a new Fuel Pressure Regulator, and for some unfortunates a whole set of injectors and pump.
From the results of your test I'd be replacing number 2 and crossing my fingers.
From the results of your test I'd be replacing number 2 and crossing my fingers.
15-01-2016, 03:43 PM
#7
hi guys injector tune is good and cheap for strip/clean/rebuild he done all 3 of mine for£80 including postage back to me or diesel technique is £75 plus £10 surcharage you will need a 21 mm deep socket easy DIY job hope this helps
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