Ways of removing ST170 VVT?
#1
Ways of removing ST170 VVT?
I know its been covered, but searched the net and on here and there seems to be a few ways of doing it that some say do not work etc...
Read all of Wills post and Austens and every other related post but can someone give me an idea to the best way of doing it as I am removing mine Saturday.
Would like to know can I use a standard Zetec pulley on the inlet cam?
What exactly do I have to block off? Some people say only the cam bridge needs blockign others say another 1/2 holes need plugging.
Cheers
Read all of Wills post and Austens and every other related post but can someone give me an idea to the best way of doing it as I am removing mine Saturday.
Would like to know can I use a standard Zetec pulley on the inlet cam?
What exactly do I have to block off? Some people say only the cam bridge needs blockign others say another 1/2 holes need plugging.
Cheers
#2
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Si,
I've only blocked the cam bridge cap entry as from what i can establish that is the oil entry gallery, from there it is distributed through the VVT valve to overcome the spring loaded inlet cam pulley.
You can make up an adaptor on a lathe to adapt the end of the standard inlet cam to run a normal zetec pulley/vernier. However, i went for the CAT Cams VVT delete spec cams which makes it a whole lot easier!
Hope that helps
I've only blocked the cam bridge cap entry as from what i can establish that is the oil entry gallery, from there it is distributed through the VVT valve to overcome the spring loaded inlet cam pulley.
You can make up an adaptor on a lathe to adapt the end of the standard inlet cam to run a normal zetec pulley/vernier. However, i went for the CAT Cams VVT delete spec cams which makes it a whole lot easier!
Hope that helps
#4
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I've not looked into that aspect Si.
If it was me and i had to keep the VVT pulley, i'd be looking at somehow locking the pulley to the cam and overcoming the spring loading in the pulley. The pulleys are interference fit with no keyway or woodruff key - that might allow you to adjust the timing and lock it where you want more easily!
If it was me and i had to keep the VVT pulley, i'd be looking at somehow locking the pulley to the cam and overcoming the spring loading in the pulley. The pulleys are interference fit with no keyway or woodruff key - that might allow you to adjust the timing and lock it where you want more easily!
#5
You can just leave it on. The cam sits in its normal position when the solonoid is not activated.
I have run all ST170 motors like this. Then in the future you can still activate it by sending 12v to the solonoid by using an aftermarket ECU or by using a shift light trigger and a standard 12v relay.
Simon.
I have run all ST170 motors like this. Then in the future you can still activate it by sending 12v to the solonoid by using an aftermarket ECU or by using a shift light trigger and a standard 12v relay.
Simon.
#7
15K+ Super Poster!!
I run mine currently with the pulley timed up to my spec, and the power disconnected. This forces the pulley to stay in its most retarded position - however my most retarded position is more advanced than std, as 145 degrees peak inlet lift is never goiing to be ideal for performance!
Rick
Rick
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#12
PassionFord Post Whore!!
because most ecu's omex gotech ms2 ect ect can only switch it on/off and its not a great way to do it and i have been there and done it. plus its not as easy to map properly and you don't really get anymore power for all the grief and a standard blacktop will piss 350hp so why fuck about .
and the inlet ports are way to big = low gas speed (lag) if you dont run the vvt plus the exhaust ports are tiny so it will just choke as you up the boost.
and the inlet ports are way to big = low gas speed (lag) if you dont run the vvt plus the exhaust ports are tiny so it will just choke as you up the boost.
#13
Because some want to follow the crowd and use more fuel, when it's totally unecessary.
The VVT can be mapped perfectly, and shows a MASSIVE MASSIVE reduction in fuel needed at lower part throttle openings with VVT working.
tabetha
The VVT can be mapped perfectly, and shows a MASSIVE MASSIVE reduction in fuel needed at lower part throttle openings with VVT working.
tabetha
#14
15K+ Super Poster!!
tabetha,
currently apart from possibly very top end ECU's, VVT can only be used to switch between the 2 extreames, 85 degrees and 145 degrees peak lift angle - non of which give very good results. The high fuel usage you talk of is if you leave the cam in it's natural position - 145 degrees - however if you retime it to something sensible and have it fixed there, it will give better power and economy than in any of the extreame states. I'll hopefully be testing something in the near future which will do proper closed loop control of the cam, which should give significant gains.
Rick
currently apart from possibly very top end ECU's, VVT can only be used to switch between the 2 extreames, 85 degrees and 145 degrees peak lift angle - non of which give very good results. The high fuel usage you talk of is if you leave the cam in it's natural position - 145 degrees - however if you retime it to something sensible and have it fixed there, it will give better power and economy than in any of the extreame states. I'll hopefully be testing something in the near future which will do proper closed loop control of the cam, which should give significant gains.
Rick
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Ive got a few queries about the ST170 head.
Im using the ST170 head for my turbo build but i have no cams with the head.
Will any other zetec cams fit the head? After speaking to Ian Howell he told me that standard cams will suit my build.
Next there is the VVT, the head does not have the soleniod fitted? Should i be deleting the VVT or keeping it?
Ive read a few threads about drilling, tapping and blocking the oil gallery in the head under the cam bridge piece and blocking the solenoid hole with a core plug.
any help appreceiated.
Matt
Im using the ST170 head for my turbo build but i have no cams with the head.
Will any other zetec cams fit the head? After speaking to Ian Howell he told me that standard cams will suit my build.
Next there is the VVT, the head does not have the soleniod fitted? Should i be deleting the VVT or keeping it?
Ive read a few threads about drilling, tapping and blocking the oil gallery in the head under the cam bridge piece and blocking the solenoid hole with a core plug.
any help appreceiated.
Matt
#16
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
tabetha,
currently apart from possibly very top end ECU's, VVT can only be used to switch between the 2 extreames, 85 degrees and 145 degrees peak lift angle - non of which give very good results. The high fuel usage you talk of is if you leave the cam in it's natural position - 145 degrees - however if you retime it to something sensible and have it fixed there, it will give better power and economy than in any of the extreame states. I'll hopefully be testing something in the near future which will do proper closed loop control of the cam, which should give significant gains.
Rick
currently apart from possibly very top end ECU's, VVT can only be used to switch between the 2 extreames, 85 degrees and 145 degrees peak lift angle - non of which give very good results. The high fuel usage you talk of is if you leave the cam in it's natural position - 145 degrees - however if you retime it to something sensible and have it fixed there, it will give better power and economy than in any of the extreame states. I'll hopefully be testing something in the near future which will do proper closed loop control of the cam, which should give significant gains.
Rick
Easiest way I done it on a puma 1.7 engine, was using a PWM signal generator. I had it to power up with 12v ignition feed, and the signal set to 1/2 which put the pulley in a central state. This means no blocking of holes etc, no buying new cams, and no machining parts. Just a live and earth - and wire to the solenoid. Done. Also, you can play with the advance or retard with a simple dial whilst on the rollers. It was like an electrically adjustable cam pulley.
On.ly cost about 100 too.
Matt
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As I don't have any cams for the ST head (other than a set of black top ones) I'm wanting to know the easiest route to go about. Wether to just buy standard ST cams or another option which will delete the VVT aswell.
I've contacted Cat Cams and Piper. Awaiting a reply.
There's loads on info online but nothing that gives a straight forward answer.
I've contacted Cat Cams and Piper. Awaiting a reply.
There's loads on info online but nothing that gives a straight forward answer.
#19
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Just take the head off and the intake manifold and put it in the bin and just run normal 2.0 setup.
saves a shit load of money.
saves a shit load of money.
#20
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
std 2.0 with st170 exhaust system makes more torque than a st170 lol.
like to see where you got 200 from every st with itbs ive seen only runs 180bhp.
#21
Fast road cams
Hi all. Looking for more info. It's probably already been said but it's a little hard to decipher the info I'm after. Here goes.. I have an st170, a bit of a project and wanna squeeze it for more power.. I have a 4-1 mani with a full system but want to install some cams.. Will the under pulley kit be the right application to suit the cams..? Bit of a newbie on the mod front any help advice would be great. Thanks
#22
help !!
hello, can you please help regards this vvt delete thread ......
is it really better to delete
or fit Vernier cam pulleys
or just exhaust cam pulley ?!!
thank you
#23
PassionFord Post Whore!!
#24
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
It certainly isn't and can't be better! There is a aftermarket ECM which is made to control the VVT with major results search for VVTpro or a stand alone ECU which can control continuously variable valve timing not just switching on/off.
#25
You can just leave it on. The cam sits in its normal position when the solonoid is not activated.
I have run all ST170 motors like this. Then in the future you can still activate it by sending 12v to the solonoid by using an aftermarket ECU or by using a shift light trigger and a standard 12v relay.
Simon.
I have run all ST170 motors like this. Then in the future you can still activate it by sending 12v to the solonoid by using an aftermarket ECU or by using a shift light trigger and a standard 12v relay.
Simon.
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