St170 tapping noise
#1
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Thread Starter
St170 tapping noise
Hi I have a tapping noise from my engine bay on my st170, I only really hear it on tickover, it might do it as I rev the engine but I can't hear it. I thought it could be the DSI clip or the imrc unit, but as I have no engine light come on I am now stuck on ideas. Any help on this would be great, thanks
#2
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
In expert but mine makes that noise like a rattle but if i put my foot on the clutch it goes away so ive been told by a mechanic that is the bearing in the clutch so he said get a 3 piece clutch and that will b problem sorted.Dont no if its the same as urs but hope this helped
#4
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
As you stand looking at the engine, look down the right hand side of the block towards the back with the engine running, the previous 170 i owned the cable/cable clip snaps off the inlet and the clicking noise you can hear is the cable going in/out/in/out as the IMRC is trying to adjust the inlet flaps but cant due to it being snapped off. Also to note the injectors are quite noisy on these.
#5
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Thread Starter
As you stand looking at the engine, look down the right hand side of the block towards the back with the engine running, the previous 170 i owned the cable/cable clip snaps off the inlet and the clicking noise you can hear is the cable going in/out/in/out as the IMRC is trying to adjust the inlet flaps but cant due to it being snapped off. Also to note the injectors are quite noisy on these.
#6
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Thread Starter
Also there is no loss of power atall.
Is it possible that it's because I have put a vernier pulley at -6 degrees on the exhaust cam? That would essentially make the inning slightly lumpy on tickover right? Although doesn't make much sense of the ticking
Is it possible that it's because I have put a vernier pulley at -6 degrees on the exhaust cam? That would essentially make the inning slightly lumpy on tickover right? Although doesn't make much sense of the ticking
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#8
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
Thread Starter
The tap/knock has gone, but as mentioned the injectors are pretty loud, also, since fitting the vernier exhaust pulley it sounds 'poppier' at lower rpm, I'm guessing this is normal as the exhaust timing had been changed, it runs sweet higher up the range but I just wanted to check. As it said before the EML isn't on and it has plenty of oil, so I'm guessing it's either because of the vernier, or just age related?
Thanks
Thanks
#9
In expert but mine makes that noise like a rattle but if i put my foot on the clutch it goes away so ive been told by a mechanic that is the bearing in the clutch so he said get a 3 piece clutch and that will b problem sorted.Dont no if its the same as urs but hope this helped
It rattles on idle when warm. If u rest your foot on the clutch it gets a tad noisier but when you fully press it down, nothing.
#10
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
Mines just started to do this, annoyingly I thought it was Cambelt related so this weekend I just replaced all the rollers, tensioners etc. will ignore it then and wait for the clutch to go.
It rattles on idle when warm. If u rest your foot on the clutch it gets a tad noisier but when you fully press it down, nothing.
It rattles on idle when warm. If u rest your foot on the clutch it gets a tad noisier but when you fully press it down, nothing.
#11
#12
I'm Finding My Feet Here Now
No im putting in a new dual mass flywheel.Ive heard of people putting in a soild flywheel and they where getting some bad vibrations cause of it so i think spending the extra now will save in the long run and i wouldnt wont the hassle of having 2 replace a solid 1 if id just put 1 in.
#13
AFAIK the st and rs had a specific oil filter, i got a std filter when i changed the oil and afterwards i had what i would say was tappety noise before the oil got to the top end of the engine, lasted about 6 secs, changed to pukka filter and it is now 3 secs or less still annoys me as its oil not getting to the head or draining while sat up and when the starter motor cranks all to life the noise starts.. again its not hydro tappets but solid to the best of my knowledge, ran it past an Expert Ford man and he said, its a zetec.. they do that!!!
#14
as to hydros worry over the dmf, petrol engines don't need dmf and the 2.0 16v has std single flywheel with no issues, lets not forget that it was the usa Ford guys who designed this machine, and they who got the getrag involved. i'm about to mod mine with a full 2.0 16v mtx75 kit from a full car i bought for the job,,. Hydro i'm local to you 60 miles down the road, coleraine.. give me a shout..
#15
Hi All! New to the site and this is my first post but felt I might be able to help or at least share my experience....
I've got 2004 ST170, same problem, odd rattle at idle, which disappears when I either put my foot on the clutch or drive off. I have changed my clutch to a sprung loaded plate and single mass, light weight fly (Thanks to TurboSport).
I was told about the vibrations and extra noise from the single mass fly but don't have either of those issues. I was told my issue was the idler pulley bolt working loose which I replaced and it cured the problem. There was also times when the car would idle fine then as either the fan cut in or I turned on the A/C the noise would start. New idler bolt...done....
On another note, lightweight fly has really helped the car rev freely and I've gained an extra 85 miles of range in fuel economy!
I've got 2004 ST170, same problem, odd rattle at idle, which disappears when I either put my foot on the clutch or drive off. I have changed my clutch to a sprung loaded plate and single mass, light weight fly (Thanks to TurboSport).
I was told about the vibrations and extra noise from the single mass fly but don't have either of those issues. I was told my issue was the idler pulley bolt working loose which I replaced and it cured the problem. There was also times when the car would idle fine then as either the fan cut in or I turned on the A/C the noise would start. New idler bolt...done....
On another note, lightweight fly has really helped the car rev freely and I've gained an extra 85 miles of range in fuel economy!
#16
Regular Contributor
If you dont mind me asking how much was the clutch and flywheel as i was going to replace mine with mew duallmass but read singlemass helps to rev more freely but also read the vibrations are terrible.
#17
The flywheel from TurboSport cost Ł275, new flywheel bolt price I cant remember, a few quid each I think. I bought the clutch, slave cylinder and spring plate from Euro Car Parts for Ł216 with my discount code I sometimes get. Worth noting the following if you want to do this... make sure the clutch plate you buy is sprung loaded to take the strain off the crank shaft on hard pull always off the line. Also, if you replace the cylinder make sure you use the o ring on the old one or buy a new as the kit I bought never had a new one and didnt think about it until Id fitted everything and filled the gearbox with oil which then leaked through the space!! Finally, TurboSport where by far the best priced for a solid lightweight fly but remember that the ST170 had 2 different clutch sizes throughout the year range so check which yours is, 220mm or 240mm and tell TurboSport as they do the fly to suit. Apart from that, no other issues. No vibration. Better revving, nicer through the range and better fuel economy.
#22
Part of the Furniture
I am using a TTv lightened fly and Sprung Organic Clutch, might be cheaper if your looking to go via TTV direct, thats what I done.
http://ttvracing.com/product/ford-st...lutch-package/
http://ttvracing.com/product/ford-st...lutch-package/
#24
Part of the Furniture
yes lots, thats why I asked that guy above about the idler bolt just incase that is an issue with mine, but if its a big job I will leave it, I was told I would get noise with it, and even queried it with TTV about just how much noise there was,
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