Mattyhenry

Please bear with me with this as i really don't understand the workings of cars, but you guys have been reccomended as experts...!!!

Bought a 1.8 Zetec 3 door focus, nice as pie and really quite nippy.

Bought a K&N Filter (57i high flow intake kit so it say on the box. Regardless of my real lack of knowledge i managed to fit it myself, its all on, everything is attached securely and it has a good supply of cold air.

But i have a problem.....

Anything below 2500RPM of i floor it, the car completely dies, doesn't quite stall but all power is lost and i slowly lose speed. However if i lift my foot halfway up i then get a small amount of power and slowly pick up speed, anything above 2500RPM and it sounds nice and moves as it did before (even when floored).

Any ideas/suggestions/help at all would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Matty

THEDMAN

iTrader: (1)

Give this a try!

Disconnect the positive side of the battery,

Leave off for 5 mins,

Re-connect battery and the ECU should have been reset and it will adjust to the different airflow after a drive cycle of about 150 miles!

Big AL

Sounds like heatsoak to me, try a 2.0 automatic air deflector panel they are about Ł7.50 from frauds.

or try

Self-Diagnostic Mode - Instrument Cluster



1. To enter the instrument cluster self-diagnostic mode simultaneously depress and hold the tripmeter reset button then turn the ignition switch to position II or III.

2. Release the tripmeter reset button when TEST is displayed on the LCD. This will take between 5 and 8 seconds.

3. The instrument cluster will enter the gauge sweep test.

4. To navigate to the following tests while in self-diagnostic mode depress the RESET button to move to the next test.

5. The self-test is deactivated when the ignition is turned to the OFF position.




#.Test
#.Syntax Displayed
#.Gauge/Indicator/Display Tested
#.Description


#.1..Gauge sweep.
#.GAGE.
#.Tachometer, speedometer, temperature and fuel.
#.All gauges go through a full up and down pointer sweep smoothness check, which takes approximately 5 seconds.


#.2..Fill in all LCD.
#.8888.
#.LCD display built into Speedometer.
#.Fills in LCD display therefore seeing if display functioning correctly.


#.3..Indicator bulbs.
#.BULB.
#.Instrument cluster illuminates indicator and warning indicators.
#.Illuminates all the warning indicators that are controlled by the instrument cluster.


#.4..ROM level.
#.rXXX.
#.Instrument cluster read only memory (ROM).
#.Displays the instrument cluster ROM revision level.


#.5..NVM level.
#.EXXX.
#.Instrument cluster non volatile memory (NVM).
#.Displays the instrument cluster NVM revision.


#.6..DTC.
#.XXXX or NONE.
#.Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).
#.To list the DTCs stored, press the RESET button.
..REFER to the instrument cluster diagnostic trouble code (DTC) index below.
..The DTC codes will scroll through if there is more than one.


#.7..Road speed mph.
#.XXX.X.
#.Speedometer.
#.Displays the speed signal input in mph.


#.8..Road speed Km/h.
#.XXX.X.
#.Speedometer.
#Displays the speed signal input in Km/h.


#.9..Engine speed.
#.XXXX.
#.Tachometer.
#.Displays the tachometer input signal (RPM).


#.10..Fuel volume.
#.FXXX.
#.Fuel sender system.
#.Displays the fuel volume signal input.


#.11..Coolant Temp.
#.XXXC
#.Engine coolant temperature.
#.Displays the engine coolant temperature signal input.


#.12..Battery Voltage.
#.bXXX.
#.Battery Voltage (t).
#.Displays battery voltage input.


#.13..ABS fail.
#.Ab-[H/L].
#.ABS system.
#.Displays ABS raw cluster input. (H = open-circuit, L = ground).


#.14..Electronic Brake Distribution Failure (EBD).
#.Eb-[H/L].
#.EBD system.
#.Displays EBD raw cluster input. (H = open-circuit, L = ground).


#.15..Illumination.
#.IL-[H/L].
#.Cluster and instrument panel illumination.
#.Displays instrument cluster and instrument panel illumination. (H = ON, L = OFF).


#.16..Crank Sense.
#.Cr-[H/L].
#.Cluster and instrument panel crank sense.
#.Displays Cluster and instrument panel Crank sense. (H = Ignition, L = Ground or over-charging).
#.(Crank sense it the Pos I (Accessory) supply to the cluster. If this is missing then the cluster will remain dead for about 20 seconds after key on. Then it will function normally. This can happen when someone fits a radio and blows the accessory fuse).


Note:
Additional tests are available after number #.16 but are not useful for diagnostics.

Note:
Later vehicles had a "cost reduced" cluster that had a different Engineering Test Mode layout. These came in about 03-53 reg, and can be distinguished by only the symbol lighting up in the tell tale rather than the whole lot. (LEDs rather than bulbs).
These clusters used stepper motors for the gauges rather than the air cored ones and did not have a Gauge Sweep test?

Mattyhenry

Tried both of those, to no avail. Just doesn't make any sense. Its the right one for my car and is fitted properly and gets a very good supply of cold air.

Any other ideas would be appreciated don't want to give up on my sweet sounding Ł80 worth yet!!!! (no matter how slow it is now)

Matty

ru51wrc

to reset the ecu i think you need to take the battery off for 30 mins minimum, try that

Mattyhenry

Won't i have to re-prog my ecu???? thats what a mechanic mate of mine said might happen????

also he said something about it not being 150 miles but 30-40 starts of the engine to reprograme the ecu???

I just want it to work

Cheers

ru51wrc

no you won't have to re-programme it as your not taking the map off, your just putting it back to factory settings, mine runs badly for a couple of days then it's fine

Big AL

No need to reset the ECU as it compensates / learns constantly.

Mattyhenry

So the answer could be??

Someone must have a similar issue, you guys are modding experts, changing things all the time......

At my wits end, i get a feeling this is just going to get binned (filter)

Thanks for the help
Matty

GTechR

Just to make sure, And please dont think i'm trying to belittle you or patronise you, but have you still got the airflow sensor fitted? and is it connected up?

Mattyhenry

1st of all that was still fitted

I have put the original airbox back in and bought a k&n panel filter for it, planning my next move now, thinking bluefin and an exhaust, if anyone can recommend a cheapish exhaust with a extra few BHP that'd be nice, but I don't want a staupidly loud "boy racer" exhaust just the extra BHP, but i think i can fit silencers to most???

Cheers for all the help given on this but no-one even mechanic mates of mine had a solution other that getting the ECU (or whatever) re-mapped, but that might not even work.

Thanks again
Matty