bullsrs

I have a 03 focus tdci 100, problem I have is that when i first pull away after warming engine up for a few minutes or if I sit at idle for a couple of minutes then pull away the car holds back from 3,500 rpm, then go up a gear or 2 it clears, when on the move it seems fine and will go past these revs no problem. The hesitancy happens with hot and cold engine, what I'm wondering is if this could be the injectors playing up. The car had a new cam sensor a year ago when my work mate owned it, I've changed the crank sensor, fuel filter, cleaned the egr and yesterday fitted an egr blank but no better, no fault codes show on f super either and my sealey code reader won't link up. Any tips folks? cheers,Roy

bullsrs

Should also say that I can hear ticking from under the bonnet when the car hesitates but no ticking when it doesn't

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

Mate this sounds the same issue as i have on mine, but mines a 04 plate 115.


and its proper doing my head in now as i can not for the life of me find the issue or anyone who knows what it is

bullsrs

Have ordered some leak off pipes, will see what comes of that, will post my findings on this

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

I have tried that mate and mine was fine, I work in a bodyshop for a ford dealer and got one the mechanics to plug it into the ford computer and there was the cam sensor error code so I replaced that and wiped the ecu took it out it drove smoother but the issue was still there, so plugged it in again and it said turbo charger failure. but I am going to take it to a deisel place next week that we take some cars from work to and let them have a look at it, hopefully they have come across it before.

cossiejay

is the ticking the maf sensor

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

Not sure mate it get louder on mine when I drive a its under load say going up a hill

bullsrs

Would have hoped the f super would have picked up on faulty maf, got a new aftermarket one at work so could give that a try anyway, have also read that the fly by wire accelerator pedals fail on these, crap thing is we show 2 gen ford in stock but they didn't arrive from supplier, cheers for the help so far folks, appreciate it.

bullsrs

There's a decent gradient hill (houghton cut) on my way back from work but never noticed my ticking getting louder, but, I've never drove with window down til yesterday to notice the ticking, that said it goes up the 'cut' no bother.

bullsrs

There's a black sticker with 16 white digits on injectors below the fuel return nozzle, is this the injector code, or does the injector need to come out to get code from the shaft?

bullsrs

Just googled it and they are the codes, they are also on a sticker ontop of the Cam pulley cover, above and below the bar code, the codes shown on my f super have no comparison at all so I don't know who's been messing on with this car, all I know is my pal owned it 5 year and only replaced cam sensor, a battery and regular servicing, so must be down to previous owner or the place he bought car from. I know a fiesta rs1800 needs running at 2-2,500 rpm for the ecu to learn the engine characteristics, when the battery has been disconnected for 4 hours or more so maybe these need the injectors recoding if the battery been disconnected or flat for a while

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

Had a look on the net (same times a good idea and sometimes bad as it can lead you looking at the wrong stuff) how ever the are quite a few post with this loss off power and rattling and they all turn out to be the turbo charger its self as some of the find break off and that's the rattle you can here that's what the post say anyway, some people have had smoke at the exhaust and some have not.

bullsrs

Gonna code in the correct codes and see what that does, just wonder if injectors have been reconditioned hence different codes. Not too sure how it works with diesels. Just gotta wait til mrs gets back from work to look after kids so I can crack on

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

Keep us posted mate, hope it works

bullsrs

No joy, took it for 20 min run down A19 then back again and seemed fine, pulled over for couple of mins at idle pulled away ok so drove round streets for 5 min pulled over for 3min going by in car clock, pulled away and it hesitated at 3,500 rpm again, I'm guessing at least one injector is leaking back too much fuel at idle or lower fuel pressures but I know bugger all about injectors so I could be talking rubbish, it could even be a temperature related problem who knows, could write a book on the probable causes

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

I am going to nip and see and see a bloke where we send all our deisel cars that have issue to today as that all he works on and because the mechanic at my place don't seem to know what it is. So hopefully he will have seen the issue before or have a better idea at where to look.

I will let you know what he says

bullsrs

Cheers for that, Now watch it'll be something daft

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

Well that bloke was a right cock, I wait for really an hour before he got there and when he did he said yeah I have had something like this before, but I will need the car for a day to tell you what's wrong and he wanted and Ł250 + vat for his trouble thats just to tell me what i need to fix it, so I got in my car and fucked off, I am not tight and understand he has bills to and all the other stuff, but I am not daft and deffo not going to be ripped off. I have had a word with a mate who I total forgot about and he is coming over tomorrow night to have a look so I will let you know the out come mate

bullsrs

That's wrong considering you put work his way at times, he should be doing you a favour in return for a change, mind they all must be the same in the trade, cos most of our customers want (and get in some cases) their parts for less than cost but charge us the same as anyone off the street. We have to rely on manufacturer rebates from our suppliers

uruk hai

Had a problem with my car and below is a description, don't know if its the same as yours but good luck.

Car starts fine but some times as soon as I move off I can feel something’s not quite right, car is very sluggish and the throttle has to be pushed down considerably further than usual to get it to pick up ? Once I’m moving the car drives fine if a bit unresponsive, then without warning and with no further movement of the throttle the car will start to pick up and gain speed up to a certain point. From now on the car will drive and accelerate as it should but only up to about 3200 – 3500 rpm, from this point on it feels as though the car is wading through custard and it creeps (and I mean creeps !) toward the red line. Once another gear is selected the same thing happens and it again only revs freely to the above figures.

It turned out to be the turbo actuator control solenoid !

bullsrs

from 3,500rpm mine is only occasionally flat, like you described, but it only seems to occur after sitting at traffic lights and when the engine is just warming up, as if not enough fuel getting through til its been ran at speed, i recorded my fsuper live data on a laptop earlier and the frp is the same whether it hesitates or not so i'm sure the pumps ok, but in all cases it goes up to 3,500 revs no problem, maybe like your problem it may have a boost leak or the start of my solenoid going, on the plus side i may have sorted the ticking, the egr blank i fitted wasn't in place properly, my own fault for rushing fitting it, only just sorted it during my break so will have to wait til i drive home to see if the ticking stopped.

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

I have got a egr blaking plate but its not been fitted as yet mate, so not sure if that will stop your ticking, but you never know fingers crossed,

bullsrs

Well after i put my car into 1st gear my clutch pedal spring snapped so had to go back into work and leave a note for ford desk to order me one from quickco manchester, in my huff that i am now in with the car i Forgot to listen for any ticking on the way home this morning, but when it was running at idle there was a strange quack type noise every now and then, I definitely didn't hit any ducks on my way into work either😀

bullsrs

Well the quack is the egr valve tapping the blank I fitted, my clutch spring is sorted, a little fiddly but easy. While I was on I fitted my boost gauge that I had in my tddi, and when it runs ok it reads 1.2 bar which Haynes manual states is standard but when it's hesitant it goes as high as 2 bar, it always read 0.9 bar on my tddi and a max of 1.1 bar, never fluctuated like it is now, i bought it new so i know it worked fine, i guess it looks like I've at least a similar issue as Uruk hai stated above if not the very same issue, gonna clean my boost pressure sensor out with electrical cleaner tonight and see what happens, unless anyone knows a way to test it without needing voltmeter etc, i've already cleaned the maf and its smoother when running right, I'll keep posting my findings and once again huge thanks to all who've helped

bullsrs

cleaning didnt sort it, i have read you can swap it round with egr solenoid so will try that later, gonna have to trim a lug from the solenoids to do this though, i also found 2/3 of a snail shell on the actuator so am guessing the rest went inside the actuator, will need to take that off too so i can see if anything wrong there.

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

So did the blaking plate stop the tapping/ticking sound ?

My mate has recoded my injectors and I have had no issue since to was a day or to ago, however the tapping/ticking noise is still there, All so fitted a new cam sensor and battery and it drives a lot better and starts better as well

bullsrs

Nah blank didn't stop the ticking, good to see yours is sorted mate, mine had new battery and cam sensor year and half ago and I recoded injectors Sunday night. After a few days with my boost gauge fitted it still shoots up to 2bar (max on my gauge) and holds there, then when it runs ok peaks at 1.5 and drops to 1.2. Sucked on the pipe to actuator and it holds steady, but when the engine had a few revs on its in and out like a bloke on a prozzy, am sure it should be holding steady.

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

Well the issue has come back today lol, fuck knows what todo now mate and the dmf has started showing issues as well

bullsrs

Bugger, would a solid flywheel conversion be a better option, dmf's are a pain. Will keep posting when I try other things to sort my hesitation out whether they work or not.

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

I have been told good thing about the soild conversion and on the other hand bad thing as well, so i am in two minds what todo for the best

bullsrs

Think I would do solid conversion if mine goes

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

I thought the same mate but then I asked about and was put off a little from what I was told, its not gone as yet but I can feel its not up to much

bullsrs

Well still trying to find a breaker on eBay who will sell me a boost pressure solenoid,

jamie rst

iTrader: (1)

Where abouts is that in the engine bay mate ?

bullsrs

it sits on top of the inlet manifold, its the one on the right, and has a black wiring plug connected to it, the one on the left with green plug is for the egr, might try swapping them over, they may be the same thing, will need to shave the lug from them for the connector to fit

bullsrs

Well my replacement boost pressure solenoid came and my cars all good cheers to all who helped with info and possibilities,Roy. Ps swapping the solenoids round did nothing, unless my egr solenoids goosed as well, good job I got both from the breaker.

uruk hai

Glad it's sorted mate !