Ticking/knocking sound from around timing belt area (Focus TDCi) Help please!
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Ticking/knocking sound from around timing belt area (Focus TDCi) Help please!
When the engine warms up, the sound becomes more noisy and rattly
Here's a video of my car making these sounds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQV7q5VRaH0
Here's a video of my car making these sounds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQV7q5VRaH0
#3
That I'm afraid sounds exactly like mine did.
I too thought it was a lifter however they are solid lifters with shims.
Honestly, don't waste your time looking from problems with the head, cambelt, water pump.
Keep driving the car and soon you will develop a misfire and lots of grey smoke (un burnt diesel) from the exhaust.
The problem is little end failure - I know, I didn't believe it either!!
If you're in any doubt then take the sump pan off and see how much bronze material is in the pan!!
The knock tick knock noise is actually the gudgeon pin floating around in the the end of one (or more) of your rods as the bronze bearing is starting to disintegrate.
Take the head off, on mine you could move number two piston clockwise and anticlockwise with your fingers!! On removal of all pistons number one piston was starting to show signs of wear / play. Three and Four were perfectly ok.
Just doing the same job on mine and it's an engine out job as you cannot access the pistons with the block still in the car. The ladder plate which is bolted to the bottom of the block can only be removed once the bottom end is on the engine stand. Head off and pistons out through the top.
You cannot buy the little end bearings from Ford as they do not sell them. The choices are:
1) New Conrod and Gudgeon Pin from Ford at approximately £180.00 inc Vat (this price is for one rod and one pin only)
2) Find a local machine shop and have some new little bearings made and pressed into your rods
3) Find a breaker that'll sell you second hand rods, pistons and pins complete
4) Find a company that'll sell you a remanufactured rod with bearing already pressed in (you'll still need new pins as yours will now be all wonky)
5) Second hand short motor from a breaker
It's a pretty big job for what is essentailly a small bearing but that's life.
I've done a lot of research on this of late and I guarantee you that will be the fault.
Matt
I too thought it was a lifter however they are solid lifters with shims.
Honestly, don't waste your time looking from problems with the head, cambelt, water pump.
Keep driving the car and soon you will develop a misfire and lots of grey smoke (un burnt diesel) from the exhaust.
The problem is little end failure - I know, I didn't believe it either!!
If you're in any doubt then take the sump pan off and see how much bronze material is in the pan!!
The knock tick knock noise is actually the gudgeon pin floating around in the the end of one (or more) of your rods as the bronze bearing is starting to disintegrate.
Take the head off, on mine you could move number two piston clockwise and anticlockwise with your fingers!! On removal of all pistons number one piston was starting to show signs of wear / play. Three and Four were perfectly ok.
Just doing the same job on mine and it's an engine out job as you cannot access the pistons with the block still in the car. The ladder plate which is bolted to the bottom of the block can only be removed once the bottom end is on the engine stand. Head off and pistons out through the top.
You cannot buy the little end bearings from Ford as they do not sell them. The choices are:
1) New Conrod and Gudgeon Pin from Ford at approximately £180.00 inc Vat (this price is for one rod and one pin only)
2) Find a local machine shop and have some new little bearings made and pressed into your rods
3) Find a breaker that'll sell you second hand rods, pistons and pins complete
4) Find a company that'll sell you a remanufactured rod with bearing already pressed in (you'll still need new pins as yours will now be all wonky)
5) Second hand short motor from a breaker
It's a pretty big job for what is essentailly a small bearing but that's life.
I've done a lot of research on this of late and I guarantee you that will be the fault.
Matt
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Hi Matt,
Thank's for your input! But gosh, that is a bit of a blow. I will never be able to afford to get that fixed, I have an MOT and service due and can barely afford them! I am not doubting you, but if I put my ear to the right side of the cylinder head, it does appear the noise is coming from there, was this also the case with you?
I managed to stop most of the smoking by blanking the EGR valve.
I forgot to mention the other symptom:
-Shaking engine at 1200rpm, very shaky when cold and the car rocks back and forth if you drive it immediately from start up in cold weather.
Thank's for your input! But gosh, that is a bit of a blow. I will never be able to afford to get that fixed, I have an MOT and service due and can barely afford them! I am not doubting you, but if I put my ear to the right side of the cylinder head, it does appear the noise is coming from there, was this also the case with you?
I managed to stop most of the smoking by blanking the EGR valve.
I forgot to mention the other symptom:
-Shaking engine at 1200rpm, very shaky when cold and the car rocks back and forth if you drive it immediately from start up in cold weather.
#5
Hi Matt,
Thank's for your input! But gosh, that is a bit of a blow. I will never be able to afford to get that fixed, I have an MOT and service due and can barely afford them! I am not doubting you, but if I put my ear to the right side of the cylinder head, it does appear the noise is coming from there, was this also the case with you?
I managed to stop most of the smoking by blanking the EGR valve.
I forgot to mention the other symptom:
-Shaking engine at 1200rpm, very shaky when cold and the car rocks back and forth if you drive it immediately from start up in cold weather.
Thank's for your input! But gosh, that is a bit of a blow. I will never be able to afford to get that fixed, I have an MOT and service due and can barely afford them! I am not doubting you, but if I put my ear to the right side of the cylinder head, it does appear the noise is coming from there, was this also the case with you?
I managed to stop most of the smoking by blanking the EGR valve.
I forgot to mention the other symptom:
-Shaking engine at 1200rpm, very shaky when cold and the car rocks back and forth if you drive it immediately from start up in cold weather.
Is this car your daily driver i.e. in daily use?
Is your car still ticking and if so is it getting louder? Mine is now cured but I had to change out con rods in number one and number two. This was engine and box out and the bottom end was stripped down and rebuilt. The little end in number two rod had all but disappeared, the little end in number one rod was on it's way. 3 & 4 were fine.
You may be lucky as I did read somewhere that a guy had a similar ticking noise which was cured with an oil and filter change.
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Yes I use it daily. On the weekend I had an engine flush, oil and filter change, but not much difference. The shaking could be a symptom of another problem...
The mechanic found oil leaking from the oil feed pipe on the turbo and also one pipe on the intercooler is leaking.
Did you have any other symptoms, like did it feel slow?
The mechanic found oil leaking from the oil feed pipe on the turbo and also one pipe on the intercooler is leaking.
Did you have any other symptoms, like did it feel slow?
#7
Yes I use it daily. On the weekend I had an engine flush, oil and filter change, but not much difference. The shaking could be a symptom of another problem...
The mechanic found oil leaking from the oil feed pipe on the turbo and also one pipe on the intercooler is leaking.
Did you have any other symptoms, like did it feel slow?
The mechanic found oil leaking from the oil feed pipe on the turbo and also one pipe on the intercooler is leaking.
Did you have any other symptoms, like did it feel slow?
Started off with a ticking that was rythmic with engine speed. Sounded like a lifter.
A few days later the ticking was accompanied by a mis fire that lasted a few seconds from the first time the car was started in the morning after being stood on the drive all night.
A few days after this the mis fire became present for a few seconds everytime the car was started at anytime during the day. Ticking still present and getting louder.
Eventually, only running on three (all of the time) and all the unburnt diesel spiralling out of the exhaust in big clouds of grey smoke. Ticking now noticably louder.
No loss of power experienced until it dropped on to three cylinders.
From your video it sounds exactly like mine did.
An easy and cheap way to find out would be to drop the sump pan off and have a look in the oil for any bronze material. If there is, this will be little bits of 'little end' that have broken away.
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#8
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Thanks for sharing that with me. I do not have those symptoms on mine. It has been like this since I got it in january, (it wasn't noticeable because I had a noisy fan belt and I only realised that there was a problem when I heard the difference in sound between cold and warm engine).
Engine runs nicely at idle.
I have made another video showing the difference between cold and warm engine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMrcN..._order&list=UL
Engine runs nicely at idle.
I have made another video showing the difference between cold and warm engine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMrcN..._order&list=UL
#9
Hi, did yoy ever get this fully fixed? Did the new HP fuel pump resolves the shaking/juddering at 1200 rpm also? I'm having exactly these symptoms and haven't been able to figure it out!
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