Rst s2 cold starting problem
#1
15000
Thread Starter
Rst s2 cold starting problem
Hello,
I'm having problems getting my rebuilt engine to start..
I used also search tool for older topics and I'm testing recommendations found there.
Currently checking cold start valve. Took it out and sticked it to a bottle.. During cranking nothing happens. Measured the voltage during cranking from the plug - 5Volts. Shouldn't it be 12? Or what is the correct voltage for cold start valve?
Thanks in advance!
I'm having problems getting my rebuilt engine to start..
I used also search tool for older topics and I'm testing recommendations found there.
Currently checking cold start valve. Took it out and sticked it to a bottle.. During cranking nothing happens. Measured the voltage during cranking from the plug - 5Volts. Shouldn't it be 12? Or what is the correct voltage for cold start valve?
Thanks in advance!
#2
15000
Thread Starter
just applied 12V directly to injector, works..
The problem was with replaced termo timer switch plug, which was replaced and wires were mixed.
Another question about those 2 brown wires with plugs at the end near the ECU module.are those originally connected to GND?
Thanks!
The problem was with replaced termo timer switch plug, which was replaced and wires were mixed.
Another question about those 2 brown wires with plugs at the end near the ECU module.are those originally connected to GND?
Thanks!
Last edited by vahurix; 26-03-2016 at 06:42 PM.
#3
The 2 wires are not used info from OAP Peter off RS Forums.OK full test on Cold start 5th injector / plus "Thermo timer sensor", first thing is to wait till engine Fully Cold, in this weather at moment , and car if in full use water will remain quite hot over night. But I proceed with the Full test for you. So with a cold engine, unplug the ignition coil just as we don't want engine to attempt to start, we are checking all circuits re - 5th injector, unplug the 5th injector, pull back the rubber cover at end of plug to identify 2 wires and there pins...Black/yellow wire will be always live when operating "Starter" on Key. The other wire...Brown/white should be "negative" only when COLD...this "negative" comes from the Thermo timer. The same wire is there...ok the other wire on the Thermo timer is also...Black/yellow, this for the internal "Electrical heater inside the Timer".... that completes the circuit. So as soon as engine full Cold "Negative" is ready at the 5th Injector...turning the Key Engine bursts into life [ unless of course 5th injector faulty / or blocked]....once you drive off the water heats up and the "Wax" element within the Timer opens a set of points within the timer....so breaking the "negative" to 5th injector so it no longer can work till fully cold again, ok should ever due to a engine fault the car not start...to stop continue cranking and filling the manifold with Petrol, the Black/yellow wire at Timer will be operating its own internal heater and opening points in timer, so stopping the 5th injector working altogether. so a faulty Timer giving no "neg" will mean points inside fault. That's the Full system Brian. Peter.
Thermo timer sensor" is the Brown plug, so once you understand the workings from what I’ve already wrote...you will understand that the Thermo time has in fact 3 terminals...this is a rare Sensor that needs a Negative on its casing...ie...one side of its internal points...and a Negative for its internal Heater, so as soon as screwed in block...neg there. this full circuit is nothing to do with any other sensor or ECUs....completely hard wired separately from any part of the Injection loom. hope of help
Thermo timer sensor" is the Brown plug, so once you understand the workings from what I’ve already wrote...you will understand that the Thermo time has in fact 3 terminals...this is a rare Sensor that needs a Negative on its casing...ie...one side of its internal points...and a Negative for its internal Heater, so as soon as screwed in block...neg there. this full circuit is nothing to do with any other sensor or ECUs....completely hard wired separately from any part of the Injection loom. hope of help
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