Scott_Rst

Hello!

Just recently got my fuel tank/lines etc all put back on s2 after a big strip down and paint of all the little bits, new suspension etc,,

car hadn't been run for almost a year! so drained all oil, new filter and fresh oil turned it by hand fresh fuel in tank and fired it up,, started no problem on first turn,,

let it sit for a a few mins while i looked around the bay for leaks etc

Then i noticed water dripping out of exhaust,,, not condensation from sitting but quite a steady drip of water i have a very short side exit exhaust,

a lot of water had gone from header tank,

first thing i thought was head gasket was knackered, so i pressure tested coolant system to 20psi and it holds it no problem with no noticeable drop off.

so is it possible that head is cracked and it'll hold pressure while its cold but when its hot and expanded a bit could a crack open up?

any help appreciated, pretty fed up now!!

little bram

I would be pulling the head off and get it pressure tested mate. You can reuse Simons head gasket (am assuming you have one fitted)

Scott_Rst

Yea im gonna have to pull it i think mate, was just looking for other peoples thoughts really, and yep i have one of his head gaskets already,,

I'm just worried that once i pull head off it it'll never go back on! as annoyed with it breaking it seems more likely!!

studabear

Get the head off it, its not a major job, the amount of times I've thought about throwing the towel in is insane lol.

Scott_Rst

yea i know mate, but its just the worry that the head is scrap!! but won't know until its off i suppose!

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Is your turbo water cooled? If it is it might be worth checking that's not letting water into the exhaust, it's extremely unlikely but for the sake of disconnecting the water pipes and blocking them off it's worth a go before removing the head.

Scott_Rst

Hey Karlos,

yea mate its a Gt30 and is water cooled,, i did think that but wasn't sure if that was possible? id never heard of it before myself and I'm not actually sure the paths/types of seal the water goes through/faces inside the turbo, could water pass into oil cooling side of turbo?

cheers

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Ah no don't do it with a GT series, they have a plastic bearing cage so must be water cooled.

Scott_Rst

Not sure what you mean by don't do it karlos?


Edit-- actually i guess you mean don't blank off water lines to turbo to check due to the plastic cage?

the turbo is off the car,, would it do damage to try put pressure into water lines on turbo to see if can find a possible leak path?

Red_bull

If you don't exceed the normal operating pressures its no problem. 0.5 bar would be enough for a water path. However a hot turbo can behave different then a cold one on your working bench. The tollerances will differ then compaired to real operating, but worth a shot

Scott_Rst

Yea thats what i was thinking mate, but worth a shot!

Hoping its something little rather than a toasted head!

cheers

Scott_Rst

Well,,, head gasket is ok,, the turbo itself is fine,,

The exhaust manifold on the car originally was Will pedleys for a zetec build,

so to fit to cvh head an adaptor plate was used, i thought tonight id pull adapter off as part of strip down for taking head off to get checked,,, Removed bolts holding adaptor plate to head,, the pics will be self-explanatory...

Pic of flange, Recessed holes are ones that bolt flange to head.



And this pic shows me putting a small bit of pressure in coolant system!



so,,, what the hell do i do with that?!

studabear

So would that have originally been a cvh exhaust stud?

little bram

Short term I would try cleaning and drying the hold and tread lock the bolt in and let it set but doing it right would be to get a cvh flange welded on the manifold. Or sell me your turbo and manifold lol.

Scott_Rst

yes it would have been an original cvh hole,

Scott_Rst

yea i was thinking of pm'ing crazy cage on here to see if he could mod it!

hahaha dont tempt me! its close to getting broken for bits!!!

studabear

refit the fixings that secure the manifold adapter with some thread lock and repeat your leak test?

Scott_Rst

yea thats the plan for now, just a pain because when cold it seals,only reason i suspected that bolt was because of orangey tinge of water around it on plate,,won't know if it works until i build it back up then run it to temp and let everything expand

Scott_Rst

Thought id update this,
Managed to fix leak, well maybe fix isn't the word but its stopped for now! all i could do was as suggested clean and dry stud hole and plenty thread lock,

When i looked at another head i have laying around the stud hole goes right into a water jacket and theres a domed bit where the bottom of threaded hole sticks into it, probably a bolt that was to long has been put in and burst through,,

So i guess ill get it welded up from inside whenever head is off for a permanent fix!

In typical fashion though i fix one issue and a new one comes up, was running spot on,
But now it won't start,, it has plenty spark and fuel but when cranking it might just pop if i give it throttle? no plug leads etc have been moved, if i can get it to "pop" a few times its only the cylinder second in from the pulley thats firing (its the only one which gets a warm exhaust header)

any ideas??

studabear

valve timing correct?

Scott_Rst

Timing did come into my head but couldn't see how it could go out, its only been started and run a few times for checking leaks etc?

Scott_Rst

Just thought id update this,,

Never took head off,
Just checked and cleaned every connection and plug i could find,,

Charged battery,, turned key and it started straight away!

God knows what was up,, everything looked spot on!

Happy though!

little bram

Happy days is that the car done now up and running? You still putting a 16v head on?

Scott_Rst

well engine wise it is up and running,

still have to make front and rear brake pipes, mount ecu in a better place, carry on tidying up wiring etc,

then need to roughly set coilovers/ adjustable arms/track rod ends so that all wheels look like there going in same direction then it'll be get the geometry set up properly and mot'd! always jobs to do!

Scott_Rst

I spoke to soon

today not starting, got fuel, got spark,, cant be timing as it ran before albeit roughly, but would start up straight away, now won't even offer to fire or pop/bang etc

Don't know if spark can be weak? possible ignition amplifier/ coil pack??

I'm thinking all sorts of probably stupid things now,,, e.g. theres a small drip/leak of fuel at suction side of fuel pump, could pump draw in air while ignitions on?? or is that just a stupid thought??

also firing order,, is cylinder 1 the one closest to cam pulley?





EDIT;

double checked plug leads etc all seem ok and correct order, took plug one out of head (closest to cam pulley) got one bright spark then nothing then a weak spark,,, could the coil pack be degraded on inside? do coil packs either produce weak/intermittent spark or nothing at all if broken,, or can be either or?