Long winde question
#1
Long winde question
Long story: never driven the car for 14 years.
When it went I thought it was overheating due to the big valve head
So swapped it for a polished ported head and put it into the tuners I used
To sort the problem. Turned out it was the six month old temp was fecked.
They put in a Piper 285T2. Car came back , lay a while and was not right.
One of the followers had not been hardended so it chewed the follower and lobe
Strewing s—t thru my newly rebuilt engine.
They gave me a new cam so installed it myself but have never driven it.
Two years ago decided to get it going to no avail so gave it to my old tuners,
Bad move, a grand later it came back and wouldn’t go worth a toss.
Way overfuelling, auxiliary air valve getting no voltage, injectors less than
Useless and the fuel distributor goosed.
I eventually got it starting and running but decided to do an underside resto,
Which became a full resto………………… yawn.
Since I have went so far, going to take out the engine and box.
Engine has only done about 4K since I rebuilt it 15 years ago but think it wise to strip, check it all and build with new oil seals and gaskets
Spec is
Standard rods and pistons but all balanced
ARP con rod bolts
Ported and polished head
Piper 285T2
Standard turbo
Pace chargecooler
Think it’s a Bayjoo chip which happily ran 8/16 psi switchable
Piper airfilter
Big stainless exhaust, Scorpion I think
Still have the original engine which was removed at 40,000 miles
And only needed the bores honed, otherwise like new.
The plan was always to rebuild this with better pistons and rods and go EFI.
Can’t be arsed anymore so, when I strip the current engine, which should be fine, do I use the Burton stage 3 big valve head (probably not), the new sealed in the bag
genuine ford oil pump, new water pump, new cambelt tensioner,
new lightened flywheel and mega uprated clutch, all of which I was keeping
to go on the rebuilt original engine.
From other posts the big valve head is probably a waste of time at my spec
But it has a good Power Engineering sx428t which is probably better than the
Piper 285t that’s currently in???
Decisions, decisions
Any thoughts
When it went I thought it was overheating due to the big valve head
So swapped it for a polished ported head and put it into the tuners I used
To sort the problem. Turned out it was the six month old temp was fecked.
They put in a Piper 285T2. Car came back , lay a while and was not right.
One of the followers had not been hardended so it chewed the follower and lobe
Strewing s—t thru my newly rebuilt engine.
They gave me a new cam so installed it myself but have never driven it.
Two years ago decided to get it going to no avail so gave it to my old tuners,
Bad move, a grand later it came back and wouldn’t go worth a toss.
Way overfuelling, auxiliary air valve getting no voltage, injectors less than
Useless and the fuel distributor goosed.
I eventually got it starting and running but decided to do an underside resto,
Which became a full resto………………… yawn.
Since I have went so far, going to take out the engine and box.
Engine has only done about 4K since I rebuilt it 15 years ago but think it wise to strip, check it all and build with new oil seals and gaskets
Spec is
Standard rods and pistons but all balanced
ARP con rod bolts
Ported and polished head
Piper 285T2
Standard turbo
Pace chargecooler
Think it’s a Bayjoo chip which happily ran 8/16 psi switchable
Piper airfilter
Big stainless exhaust, Scorpion I think
Still have the original engine which was removed at 40,000 miles
And only needed the bores honed, otherwise like new.
The plan was always to rebuild this with better pistons and rods and go EFI.
Can’t be arsed anymore so, when I strip the current engine, which should be fine, do I use the Burton stage 3 big valve head (probably not), the new sealed in the bag
genuine ford oil pump, new water pump, new cambelt tensioner,
new lightened flywheel and mega uprated clutch, all of which I was keeping
to go on the rebuilt original engine.
From other posts the big valve head is probably a waste of time at my spec
But it has a good Power Engineering sx428t which is probably better than the
Piper 285t that’s currently in???
Decisions, decisions
Any thoughts
#2
OK try simplified
Not looking for mad power but since the engines being stripped what would justify using the big valve head , lightened flywheel and adjustable cam pulley?
Planning to run 15/16 psi so would a stage 3 turbo make the above mods worthwhile and if so would I be better replacing the 285T2 with power engineering cam?
Not looking for mad power but since the engines being stripped what would justify using the big valve head , lightened flywheel and adjustable cam pulley?
Planning to run 15/16 psi so would a stage 3 turbo make the above mods worthwhile and if so would I be better replacing the 285T2 with power engineering cam?
#3
Balls Deep!
iTrader: (4)
Head is over the top for your power so I'd sell it.
Stage 3 T3 is a little wasted with stock rods and pistons, better going wit a stage 2.
Ultimately your limited by what the old MFI can do reliably.
Use whatever cam hasn't fallen apart and keep the lifters matched to their lobes!
Stage 3 T3 is a little wasted with stock rods and pistons, better going wit a stage 2.
Ultimately your limited by what the old MFI can do reliably.
Use whatever cam hasn't fallen apart and keep the lifters matched to their lobes!
#4
Thanks Karlos
never driven it with the 285t2 (which is as new) and wondered if the power engineering cam which is in good nick might be a better match.
However would be way less hassle just replace oil seals in the current engine and just maybe get the soddin sump gasket to seal
never driven it with the 285t2 (which is as new) and wondered if the power engineering cam which is in good nick might be a better match.
However would be way less hassle just replace oil seals in the current engine and just maybe get the soddin sump gasket to seal
#5
PassionFord Regular
any pics of ya restore
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