Chas

I need to dyno my RST but at one point it was making 270BHP. The last dyno graph shows it has been detuned to 235BHP and around 230lb Ft of torque, but if I am honest it feels quickly and lovely enough.

However, the clutch is quite horrific if I am honest with you with possibly being the heaviest clutch I have used along with the biting point being very very small and brief in addition to it feeling like something on the car will break. Even people who have driven this car who have experienced a paddle clutch find it ridiculous! At the moment going by the receipts the car has fitted to it a Helix 4 paddle clutch along with a MkV pedal and quadrant.

Before I potentially break something what choices are out there? If I assume I am running around 235BHP I shall guess that a standard clutch is out of the question. I would consider an AP 2000-8 but if I am honest AP rate those at 169lb, less than what my car makes.

I know years ago that people said that the best combination to have as a clutch which gave a near standard feel along with power handling was an Alcon 6 paddle centre plate centre plate along with a Genuine Ford pressure plate. Whilst the pressure plate seems available it seems that the centre plate is not.

Before I attempt to get used to this plate and attempt to man up, what other choices do I have. Will the other ones see any significant improvement in what my car has now?

HaggisTurbo

Hi mate AP have a habit of underrating the clutches to cover themselves I dont see you having a problem with that as an organic clutch however if you want to future proof it, get the AP CP2000-35 it has been tried and tested on cars over 300bhp, the gearbox will die first however it is £401 from Burton

Piston Broke

i run a 4 paddle AP, also converted the clutch cable to hydro now so have a soft controlled peddle

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

As Haggis has said.

Chas

It is always great to hear about the various choices on offer in addition to people's experiences.

A rolling road may be booked to see what my car is actually making (a 1.8 ZVH with a Piper 285T2 cam, ported and flowed head with possibly larger valves), vernier pulley with a C R Turbos TSF02 (55 AR compressor wheel, 2WD Cosworth compressor casing with 360 degree ball bearings with a -31 actuator) running at 18PSi on a modified Pace chargecooler setup along with an MFII 5th Injector setup),

Upon the above being done, I may see if I can drive a car with an AP 2000-8 (any offers in the Midlands?) to see what they are like to live with in comparison to mine.

How is your AP 4 paddle Piston Broke with a hydraulic pedal? Whilst the lightness is present is the biting point still like a switch and does the car still judder upon the clutch engaging?

Twins

iTrader: (18)

I run an ap 4 paddle plate and a standard cover and bearing ,very nice light pedal ,do get a bit of juddler but not much

Piston Broke

Yer you get a bit of judder but can rev it off if that makes sence and the biting point is perfect as adjusted on the peddle mod

GINGExR2 T

iTrader: (1)

I ran this on my old XR2 1800 turbo, on 9psi it was 192bhp and 180lbf, not sure what it was on the 21psi I ran but I never had an issue with the clutch, just a bit of judder in traffic when the plate got a bit hot from stopping and starting.

The only issue it ever had was after I sold the car and the box was changed, the replacement box didn't have the steel sleeve on the box casing where the output shaft came out, so it had to have the smaller bearing, after that it was a pain in the arse.

The original bearing was the large centre diameter type with a flat faced bearing, the smaller type was like the one shown in this kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Unipar...item3a98cd8f86 and caused massive problems.

Only thing I can think due to the feel of the pedal was it felt like the bearing was reaching the very ends of the plate fingers.

This car only ever had a standard pedal and cable and the cover was an ERST LUK item.


Ginger


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