Perfmr2

Hello guys,

I need some urgent advice on where to start with my little issue. I apologize now for length of post.

Took car for MOT friday, pulled up and the car lost all power and was still cranking with the key out. Turns out the little wire was touching the main cable, and turning the starter. After MOT, I decided to do sump gasket. Went OK (and almost got it right first time), put it all back together, and its started first time. Knocked it off to remove breaker bar from exhaust and it wouldnt start again. Waited till next day and it started first turn of the key. But yet again wouldnt start when warm.
I checked plugs and they were damp with fuel. MOT tester said the car was running stupidly rich, and to get it sorted (hence dyno on Saturday).

As it stands, when cold, starts and runs great, but soon as it gets a little temp nothing, just turns and turns and doesnt even attempt to fire. I think its flooding itself, but need the input of you guys.
Its worth mentioning that I did arc the battery onto the body when I was removing the + terminal, which fried the Hazard fuse into a molten mess.

Ive got sump off, starter out, exhaust loose ready for second attempt.

Where should I start on this?. Im at dyno with a load of big power Jap boys, and dont want the car not to start when i get there. Ive took Thursday night off work to try and sort this. Car is so close to its unveiling, just need to get this right.

Any help will be much appreciated, and Ill buy the winning suggestion a brew at Central Day.


I really really need some pointers on where to start to try to cure this problem

dojj

iTrader: (3)

leaky cold start injector?

nathansRS

I guess you could try and see if it is an electric or mechanical problem.
Start it from cold and when it becomes warm and cuts out, try unplugging the empa socket from the metering unit. If it then runs ok (for warm idling), you can measure the temp sensor and/or the current at the empa to isolate whether it is a temp sensor or black ecu problem. If unplugging makes no difference it may be worth looking at the mechanical side to see if the injectors are overfuelling, the metering flap and shaft is sticky, or like dojj says, the mechanical injector is permanently energised.

good luck anyway

GVK.

Doesn't sound good!!

Too late now but ALWAYS disconnect the earth first!!

Perfmr2

Evening.

So it turned out to be a faulty Cold Start Injector. Car made 189bhp & 222lbft at 16psi, and is now fuelling and timed perfect. Despite blowing the top radiator hose off 500 yards from the dyno, and the oil slick it left behind (4 attempts @ sump gasket and counting.

I now need to replace my radiator as the top outlet has crumbled to nothing. Any recommendations? Alloy or std replacement?

dojj

iTrader: (3)

get an alloy one, would be silly not to now you need one

Perfmr2

Biscuit for you mate.

Im just looking around now, like the Pro Alloy or Airtec one from AS.

mentalasanything

I have the Airtec one, fits nicely with my Airtec FMIC and Airtec turbo cooler. Generally have low temps and looks cool.

Lee

dojj

iTrader: (3)

It may be worth looking and getting everything from one source/brand as then at least it'll all be designed to work together if you want to get a full mount intercooler to compliment it

The normal advice in these situations is to buy once after looking at all the options

Perfmr2

I already have a Pro Alloy front mount with twin Spal fans on. Ive just took old one out, and the top outlet is such a mess. Anything I put on is gonna be better than stock.